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Old 09-27-2007, 02:31 PM   #9706
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Originally Posted by Rookie4life View Post
I guess that could be a possibilty as well. I get more and more confused when adding droop in that I don't know if adding means going from 5-6 in the front or if adding means going from 5-4. Also is the rear diff gear supposed to be able to move side to side a lot?
Adding droop means allowing the arms to droop down more. Going from 6mm to 5mm on the droop gauge would be an example of adding droop.

The rear diff pulley will wobble left to right. That's normal.
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Old 09-28-2007, 03:06 PM   #9707
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Adding droop means allowing the arms to droop down more. Going from 6mm to 5mm on the droop gauge would be an example of adding droop.
Well said. This allows the front to "pick-up" more on power causing the weight to shift to the rear giving you more rear traction.
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Old 09-28-2007, 03:45 PM   #9708
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Cyclone parts are hard to find here in the states, just wonder if they might make a good substitute.
For Japanese cars.. Go to Japan!!
I always shop here first..... then go elsewhere if they don't stock it (like Asia or the States)
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or here
Pro Shop Futaba
They speak/write English very well and are very helpful. They pack there orders very well and there soo cheap!!!

PS> "Pro Shop Futaba" is just there name not a dedicated store that only sell Futaba Radio gear... Ok
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Old 09-29-2007, 02:30 PM   #9709
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Ok guys

What does it take to get lipos in this car?

I want to run a Trakpower gold pack

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXRWF7&P=ML

Or one of the orion packs

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXLXR6&P=ML

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXNMF9&P=ML

First choice is the trakpower because trakpower/flight power have the enerland cells, which are the nicest lipos made by most poeple

Next is the orion platinum pack because kokam is also very nice lipos

And the carbon pack is not so much on the list because of how light it is, I dont want to be adding lots of weight to make the car balanced, even with the platinum pack the car at my track was LIGHT, and he didnt add any weight, and the car was on rails

Im so glad lipos are legal there now
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Last edited by BlackedOutREVO; 09-29-2007 at 09:33 PM.
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Old 09-29-2007, 02:42 PM   #9710
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Choose any pack and use tape, that's all it takes.
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Old 09-29-2007, 02:49 PM   #9711
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Choose any pack and use tape, that's all it takes.
The bullets and the pack height all fits with no mods?

I always use tape


And then with the platinum or any flat pack, I have heard of shoo goo-ing plexi glass, or lexan etc to fit in the batt slots?

Whats people using?


EDIT, Im pretty shure you use the carbon pack, but I cant find the pics, could you re post them?
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Old 09-29-2007, 06:18 PM   #9712
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Originally Posted by BlackedOutREVO View Post
The bullets and the pack height all fits with no mods?


And then with the platinum or any flat pack, I have heard of shoo goo-ing plexi glass, or lexan etc to fit in the batt slots?
I can only speak about the Orion 4800 pack. It fits fine with zero modifications needed to fit into the Cyclone.

Another thing you can try are these weights from NEXUS Racing. They will help keep the battery in place and help add weight while maintaining a lower center of gravity.

Check them out: Nexus Racing LiPO Weight Set
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Old 09-29-2007, 06:35 PM   #9713
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Originally Posted by ShaunMac View Post
I can only speak about the Orion 4800 pack. It fits fine with zero modifications needed to fit into the Cyclone.

Another thing you can try are these weights from NEXUS Racing. They will help keep the battery in place and help add weight while maintaining a lower center of gravity.

Check them out: Nexus Racing LiPO Weight Set
I assume you used those?

Any pics?

I really need pics right now, the guys car was a tc5, I need to see it in a cyclone....

Those looks sweet though! Is weight needed?
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Old 09-29-2007, 06:54 PM   #9714
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I assume you used those?

Any pics?

I really need pics right now, the guys car was a tc5, I need to see it in a cyclone....

Those looks sweet though! Is weight needed?
Yes, I use those weights. Actually I'm using 2 sets. I put 2 weights in each battery slot. Then I added the rest of the weight I needed to the outside of the battery. Yes, weight IS needed. The Orion 4800 weighs in at only 285g. To meet the ROAR 1525g minimum weight for rubber tire class you will have to add weight.

Sorry no pics.
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Old 09-29-2007, 07:01 PM   #9715
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Yes, I use those weights. Actually I'm using 2 sets. I put 2 weights in each battery slot. Then I added the rest of the weight I needed to the outside of the battery. Yes, weight IS needed. The Orion 4800 weighs in at only 285g. To meet the ROAR 1525g minimum weight for rubber tire class you will have to add weight.

Sorry no pics.
I club race, no tech

No weight limit, so with no limit, what would you do then?

I want to stay nice and light, with all the alu on the cyclone its alot heavier then the tc5, I did notice that, or atleast it seemed that way because we have the same electronics in out cars
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Old 09-30-2007, 01:55 PM   #9716
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Does anyone know what cyclone chassis that is towards the bottom of the page?

http://www.much-more.co.jp/IIC2007/IIC2007.htm
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Old 09-30-2007, 05:22 PM   #9717
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today at the track i broke 2 diff screws 1 was the ti diff screw though i was involved in two crashes i think they are two soft someone told me they are using the d4 screw now is that true does it it directly fit or doo u need to make changes and could i get a part number and hobby store.thanks
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Old 09-30-2007, 05:28 PM   #9718
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today at the track i broke 2 diff screws 1 was the ti diff screw though i was involved in two crashes i think they are two soft someone told me they are using the d4 screw now is that true does it it directly fit or doo u need to make changes and could i get a part number and hobby store.thanks
Just stick a 3x6x0.5mm washer (Z203) under the diff nut... you shouldn't break another screw
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Old 09-30-2007, 05:34 PM   #9719
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Just stick a 3x6x0.5mm washer (Z203) under the diff nut... you shouldn't break another screw
What does that do to make it not break?

I need to do that when the next one goes
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Old 09-30-2007, 05:56 PM   #9720
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What does that do to make it not break?

I need to do that when the next one goes
In my experience the diff screw always broke off just at the end of the thread of the screw. Hence the theory is that the nut gets twisted in the diff housing. The washer helps keep the diff nut square inside the diff outdrive housing. Keeping the diff nut perpendicular to the screw allows the screw to take maximum loads. Anyway the bottom line is that with the additional washer I have not broken a screw in over a year of modified racing. Hope this helps.....
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