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Old 06-24-2007, 11:28 AM   #8896
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http://www.fastener-express.com/inde...S&Category=218

the fastener-express ones match pretty well....
Karlo, thats a good find, they are really cheap, think I'm about to get some, that way shipping should be a little less than from HK.
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Old 06-24-2007, 01:44 PM   #8897
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Hey guys i just finished building my cyclone.. i do have a few questions though, how tight do you make your ball diffs? i set mine so that i can't turn the gear while holding the axles, however now that the car's done i can hold on to the wheels and turn the gear without too much force.. i assume its slipping too much? How tight should it be? and whats the easiest way to tighten it? another thing is how do you change the toe setting? finally i'm running it with a gtb with a spektrum pro reciever and i'm having a hell of a time fitting things on the chassis, i ended up stacking the receiver on the servo.. i assume thats a bad thing.. any suggestions? sorry for noob questions.. thanks!
needs to be tighter im shure, if u run it, punch it and if u hear squeeling then there too loose

toe is just done by the turnbuckles, use the lil tool it comes with and tunr it till there where u want them

and thats fine, ppl do that with there cars for room! another thing u can do u crack off one of the servo ears and put some double sided tape on it and screw the one side thats faceing the bumper in, then u can get that much more room... or shoo goo it, or strong double sided tape the whole servo on..
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Old 06-24-2007, 01:51 PM   #8898
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and guys

i want to try out a oneway... i LOVE lots and lots of steering, and my spool just doesnt get me there, i have done EVERYTHING there is, i can put down not bad lap times (like .8 above the expert times) but would like to try out the one way, i mean i have it already rom the kit, mite as well

so i put in the center oneway pulley and front and i go out side it just spins out no matter what! i can get off the gas EVER so slightly where its hardly slowing down and spins out

so now i know u have to change the set up, i think theres to much wieght transfer to the front? causing it to spin

what would u change to run a ow front, and center, insted of a spool
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Old 06-24-2007, 03:14 PM   #8899
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well going out side and running it on the drive way it 10 time different then at a track. so if you usually run at a track and then just test it outside on a different surface they your going to get very different results.

to take away some steering gained from the oneway you can add a thicker sway bar in the front. change the roll center of the front. change springs. change pivot blocks. there are 100 things you can do

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Originally Posted by BlackedOutREVO View Post
and guys

i want to try out a oneway... i LOVE lots and lots of steering, and my spool just doesnt get me there, i have done EVERYTHING there is, i can put down not bad lap times (like .8 above the expert times) but would like to try out the one way, i mean i have it already rom the kit, mite as well

so i put in the center oneway pulley and front and i go out side it just spins out no matter what! i can get off the gas EVER so slightly where its hardly slowing down and spins out

so now i know u have to change the set up, i think theres to much wieght transfer to the front? causing it to spin

what would u change to run a ow front, and center, insted of a spool
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Old 06-24-2007, 04:45 PM   #8900
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Just got my Cyclone to the track for the first time. I'm very happy with it so far. Took very little to get it the way I wanted and seemed to be as fast as anything I have driven. Plus I didn't break anything which was an expensive problem with my Xray. Since I'm a pretty decent driver it's good to know again that I can go to the track without breaking something.

Now I have a question about diffs. Tower has a Differential Cup Joint Set for $30. Or you can get the Alum ones for $22. The complete diff is $38. Why in the world are the plastic diffs so expensive? Also is there a difference between the regular cyclone plastic diff and the cyclone s? The cyclone s parts are like $7 and they look the same...
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Old 06-24-2007, 06:24 PM   #8901
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Originally Posted by porschejim911 View Post
Just got my Cyclone to the track for the first time. I'm very happy with it so far. Took very little to get it the way I wanted and seemed to be as fast as anything I have driven. Plus I didn't break anything which was an expensive problem with my Xray. Since I'm a pretty decent driver it's good to know again that I can go to the track without breaking something.

Now I have a question about diffs. Tower has a Differential Cup Joint Set for $30. Or you can get the Alum ones for $22. The complete diff is $38. Why in the world are the plastic diffs so expensive? Also is there a difference between the regular cyclone plastic diff and the cyclone s? The cyclone s parts are like $7 and they look the same...
The Cyclone diff if delrin. The CycloneS is molded plastic. The S diffs are more likely to break than the Delrin. Delrin cost more as a material to start with.

Blacked out Revo, it probably is not that the car needs a oneway for more steering and for you to be as fast as the fast guys. If you are not getting the steering from a spool then you are, 1 over diving the car. Or 2 the setup is wrong.
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Old 06-24-2007, 06:26 PM   #8902
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Originally Posted by fjm9898 View Post
well going out side and running it on the drive way it 10 time different then at a track. so if you usually run at a track and then just test it outside on a different surface they your going to get very different results.

to take away some steering gained from the oneway you can add a thicker sway bar in the front. change the roll center of the front. change springs. change pivot blocks. there are 100 things you can do
it did the same at the track the first time i tried, i got mad and put the spool back in to drive... now i wanta truely try

but ok, i will have to try some things out

thanks
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Old 06-24-2007, 06:36 PM   #8903
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Tower describes both parts as nylon construction. The expensive one is HB70715. Is that supposed to be delrin? It's also black and I thought delrin was about always white.

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The Cyclone diff if delrin. The CycloneS is molded plastic. The S diffs are more likely to break than the Delrin. Delrin cost more as a material to start with.

Blacked out Revo, it probably is not that the car needs a oneway for more steering and for you to be as fast as the fast guys. If you are not getting the steering from a spool then you are, 1 over diving the car. Or 2 the setup is wrong.
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Old 06-24-2007, 06:56 PM   #8904
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Delrin can have color added to it during the production process.

I have both the Cyclone and the S. The Cyclone S diffs will break easier than the delrin.
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Old 06-24-2007, 06:59 PM   #8905
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Thanks. I was confused by the tower description then. Anybody use the Alloy? Since they are cheaper is that the better way to go?


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Delrin can have color added to it during the production process.

I have both the Cyclone and the S. The Cyclone S diffs will break easier than the delrin.
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Old 06-24-2007, 07:05 PM   #8906
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Are they both the same other than the materials? With the S being so much cheaper they might be the way to go even if they are a little less durable.

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Delrin can have color added to it during the production process.

I have both the Cyclone and the S. The Cyclone S diffs will break easier than the delrin.
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Old 06-24-2007, 07:05 PM   #8907
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If you go with the alloy. Then you have blades to worry about. If the bone cross pin wears thru the blade. It will then wear a groove into the alloy. At $10 per blade set. It is expensive. I use the 3 racing diff. It has blue blades that work well. I have found if you heat them up in the center. And squeeze them just a little. They will last much longer. They want to squish out after a while. I do rotate them also to get the most out of them. I run a diff in the rear and spool in the front. The 3racing blades are 2 pair for $5.
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Old 06-24-2007, 07:10 PM   #8908
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The diffs are the same design. Just the material. To be honest, the material on the S looks very much like the pro4 diff material. I have ran mod with the Pro4 and never broke a diff outdrive.
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Old 06-24-2007, 08:13 PM   #8909
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Hey guys i was wondering if there is any good setup for asphalt with the stock configuration? I'm running the original black cyclone so i have a one-way up front.. most of the setups are for spools, i haven't had time to grab a spool yet so i want to set it up for the one-way for now.thanks!
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Old 06-24-2007, 09:38 PM   #8910
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Nah the cyclone S diffs are a lot softer than the pro 4 ones. If im not mistaken the pro 4 diffs were made of that composite stuff they use on the rest of the car.

Yeah im thinking i will go with the delrin ones, im so cheap that by the time i change the blades theyve worn down into the diff cups . If you go with the delrin or plastic diffs dont forget to get the retaining clips for them, i dont think come in the packet.

BTW last weekend my car was just wheel spinning everywhere, turned the punch down to zero on the car and even tried gearing it up but i was still getting massive wheel spin through the corners and the back of the car kept spinning out through corners, im sure i didnt have the drift tires on
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