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Old 06-20-2007, 09:33 PM   #8836
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Anyone got any pics of their cyclone with a gtx installed. Looking for ideas for the best way to put it in. Thanks
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Old 06-20-2007, 10:35 PM   #8837
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those new WCE cvd bones are POS as well. i ran two runs today. and i come off the track each time with the hole for the pin ripped out. and the last run i only tapped our 180 corner going like 5mph while off throttle. i must say in the two weeks i have had this car i am very upset with the quality of parts. i have blow two verson 2 universals three HD steel universals and today two WCE cvds. and i am not even hitting anything hard at all. i am not the top sponsored guy but i am no means a bad driver. i just finished up that last qualifier witht eh ripped bone and set then 2nd fastest time. i broke less parts on my pro4 in the almost 3 years i had it. and in 3 days of running i have broken 7 dog bones. i even modded my spool by widening the outdrives a bit so i could fit the pin cushion blades on it. and those bones are breaking before the blades get smashed. i guess ill have to find a way to get the xray spring steel stuff to work on this car?
The fix is simple, Do not hit the boards! It is that simple. I have been running the car in 19T and it has not had any issues like you have.

I ran a T2 last year. The spring steel stuff will twist faster than you think. Plus at $20 a pop for the shaft not worth it.

3Racing spool and steel drive shafts work for me no problems. I have hit a few times and no bends.
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Old 06-21-2007, 12:16 AM   #8838
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that is what i am saying i barely even tapped a board the last time. and yet the damn thing still blew out. i was off throttle on the slowest corner on the track.
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Old 06-21-2007, 09:19 AM   #8839
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I think MIP bones are fragile..the pin holes being so close to the edge. I prefer the original axles and bones on the cyclone.
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Old 06-21-2007, 10:37 AM   #8840
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Does anyone run 28mm foams on the Cyclone? and if so, how did you get them to fit without binding?
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Old 06-21-2007, 04:25 PM   #8841
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i used 1.5mm shims behind the wheels on the hexes in the rear and 1mm shims in the front.the width will be too narrow anyway if you dont shim them
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Old 06-21-2007, 05:24 PM   #8842
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guys how do u keep those blades that go on the end of the rear drive shaft pins from coming off? is there a fix besides dont hit crap?
??????
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Old 06-21-2007, 05:39 PM   #8843
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Originally Posted by edward Haywood View Post
still looking for Surikarn edition Cyclone parts....and blue aluminum hubs & knuckles
try tower hobbies.
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Old 06-21-2007, 06:07 PM   #8844
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guys how do u keep those blades that go on the end of the rear drive shaft pins from coming off? is there a fix besides dont hit crap?
My guess is that the 1st time you lot the blade, you kept running and chewed the alloy diff outdrive up, so when you put new blades in they get shewed up fast due to the sharp alloy, and come off.

I have never lost the blade off the pin, but i do wear them out pretty fast, probably every other meeting i need to replace them.

Inspect the outdrive if it is all chjewed up you will need to replace.
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Old 06-21-2007, 06:12 PM   #8845
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My guess is that the 1st time you lot the blade, you kept running and chewed the alloy diff outdrive up, so when you put new blades in they get shewed up fast due to the sharp alloy, and come off.

I have never lost the blade off the pin, but i do wear them out pretty fast, probably every other meeting i need to replace them.

Inspect the outdrive if it is all chjewed up you will need to replace.
yes pretty much

they stay on for maybey idk hour and 10 mins and then fall off

its not jagged at all, just a TINY bit worn, i catch it falling off and stop running


i hate those thing, i wish there was out drives like the front, no blades
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Old 06-21-2007, 06:17 PM   #8846
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yes pretty much

they stay on for maybey idk hour and 10 mins and then fall off

its not jagged at all, just a TINY bit worn, i catch it falling off and stop running


i hate those thing, i wish there was out drives like the front, no blades
you might have more luck with the original molded black outdrives.
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Old 06-21-2007, 06:19 PM   #8847
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you might have more luck with the original molded black outdrives.
idk about plastic...theres no al ooutdrives for the rear so theres no blades?

i have alredy spent 33 bucks in blades
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Old 06-21-2007, 06:25 PM   #8848
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idk about plastic...theres no al ooutdrives for the rear so theres no blades?

i have alredy spent 33 bucks in blades
You can try something that worked on the T2 and the 3Racing blades that I run.

From Nexus Racing

First, lightly squeeze the blade with a pair of pliers so that it grabs the ball of the dogbone. While squeezing, heat up the top of the cap (the "apex") with a heat gun or small butane torch. Continue to heat this area until you see it just start to melt. Then, allow the cap to cool as you continue to squeeze it. Performing this procedure will remove the play from the cap and give the cap a bigger contact area with the outdrive, making it last longer.

I actually hold the blade squeze and heat. Seems to work well for me. I run 19T/10.5 and they last about a month when fliped.
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Old 06-21-2007, 06:31 PM   #8849
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Originally Posted by dodgeguy View Post
You can try something that worked on the T2 and the 3Racing blades that I run.

From Nexus Racing

First, lightly squeeze the blade with a pair of pliers so that it grabs the ball of the dogbone. While squeezing, heat up the top of the cap (the "apex") with a heat gun or small butane torch. Continue to heat this area until you see it just start to melt. Then, allow the cap to cool as you continue to squeeze it. Performing this procedure will remove the play from the cap and give the cap a bigger contact area with the outdrive, making it last longer.

I actually hold the blade squeze and heat. Seems to work well for me. I run 19T/10.5 and they last about a month when fliped.

thats good info! i will have to try that out on my next set!

thanks! i run stock btw... so id think thed last somewhat longer
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Old 06-21-2007, 07:57 PM   #8850
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Just to make some things clear, Mangoman and Elboogie, you are both right.
Like Elboogie said, you get more steering by using the 2.5 degrees instead of 0 degrees, but you should realize that it's because the wheelbase gets smaller (the arms are more swepped back).
Like Mangoman said is true, it changes the characteristic of the steering and that's what the front inboard toe (out) is intended for (if your just looking for some steering there are other/better ways to accomplish this).
The more degrees you use the smaller the wheelbase gets when the suspension gets compressed.
On the track this means that you get more steering turn in and less turn out the more degrees you use.
Thraex...... ( I like the way you explain this stuff ) ... This works just like you said for the steering but the back dose not seem to work that way. I need more traction coming out of the corners on power in the back. I have triad 3, 2.5 and 2 degrees......... Is there something different about the back of the cyclone that could make 2 degrees have more traction on power coming out of a corner than 3 degrees on asphalt with rubber tires ?????. I am always trying to get more turn out traction in the front and the back on power.
Thank you
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