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Old 06-13-2007, 08:25 AM   #8731
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I've had that with the rear belt before. I just moved the eccentrics to a different position.

As for the car feeling tight above, remove the shims from the diff altogether. They're not needed. Use the shims when the car gets worn and there is more play.
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Old 06-13-2007, 09:02 AM   #8732
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I had them set so the belt would be as loose as it would go, but still waaay to tight (mainly the front belt).

Anyone tried the excel low friction belts? Would this help?

Or am I missing something completely? This is my first belt driven car, and I wouldnt know if there was anything you're supposed to do to belts before you install them.
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Old 06-13-2007, 12:12 PM   #8733
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If that was the case with your Belt being so TIGHT. run a XRAY T@ belt, it has 2 more teeth and give you more play. But i would have to say that the belt was made wrong or packaged wrong to be that tight/.

I break in every new car, belt and Bearing for a minimum of 3 to 4 hours , and my car and free wheel for a long time, and is as smooth as glass.

Just my .2 cents worth
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Old 06-13-2007, 01:09 PM   #8734
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save you money for other parts.. from what I've read thus far..the excel low friction belts wear out faster....
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Old 06-13-2007, 01:15 PM   #8735
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OK thanks guys.

To describe how tight the front belt was, as soon as I installed it there was always a clicking noise coming from the front spool. When I put the old one back in, the noise was gone.

I'll just persume its a fault of some sort and get another one.
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Old 06-13-2007, 10:03 PM   #8736
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Bugger that sucks Its probably not but if you have a belt tensioner have you checked to see if its cranked down too far? I set mine so its sitting just very very slightly off the belt.
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Old 06-13-2007, 10:06 PM   #8737
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With the unis the v2 ones are meant to have a slightly larger bulb on the end where the fixed pin is that sits in the drive cups.

For v1 equipment it means that there is a little bit of play and this would probably results in slightly more wear or slop. It's probably ok to use v1 unis with v2/v3 drive cups, but not ideal. I would think that using v2 unis with old v1 drive cups is a bad thing though.
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Old 06-14-2007, 12:33 AM   #8738
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rc-zombies View Post
save you money for other parts.. from what I've read thus far..the excel low friction belts wear out faster....
i try running Excel Low friction belt on 3.5t Orion BL just couple pack run the belt teeth came off in a row.
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Old 06-14-2007, 12:48 AM   #8739
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The teeth came off?? OUCH
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Old 06-14-2007, 01:13 AM   #8740
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mangoman View Post
Bugger that sucks Its probably not but if you have a belt tensioner have you checked to see if its cranked down too far? I set mine so its sitting just very very slightly off the belt.
Thanks for the suggestion.

The tensioner wasnt even near the belt, so im just guessing the belt was just that fraction too short.
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Old 06-14-2007, 05:59 AM   #8741
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Pocknell View Post
I've had my cyclone for a while now and decided to change belts cause mine were lookind a bit worn.

When I put new ones in, they were so tight that they were putting too much strain on the drivetrain and made it pretty loud. Even after quite a few runs they were still very tight. In the end I had to put the old ones back in.

Has anyone else had this happen? Is there variation between belts?

Thanks
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Old 06-14-2007, 06:24 AM   #8742
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Is it just me or is it impossible to get off those darn ball ends (the HPI-etched ones) without destroying them? They always seem to get gouged. How do you take them off?
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Old 06-14-2007, 09:20 AM   #8743
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hey my hara ed. has 3 places for the e-clips on the shock shaft so you can either have the piston in a lower our higher position. whats the difference. the stock manual doesnt have any information.

i also have a bunch of pro4 pistons. in a andy moore setup i have he says he has 3 holes is that the small 3 hole piston that is in the pro4 complete set? i would think the #1 with the two big holes would be better. (trying to go off a xray setup for our local track and they have all 4 holes open on their piston so trying to get as close to that with our pistons.)

come one... anyone?
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Old 06-14-2007, 09:39 AM   #8744
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I know there was a debate on gearing problems here but I couldn't find those pages. Are those problems only with modified motors? What is the ideal FDR for stock?
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Old 06-14-2007, 10:02 AM   #8745
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Schumacher View Post
I know there was a debate on gearing problems here but I couldn't find those pages. Are those problems only with modified motors? What is the ideal FDR for stock?
for stock brushed? around a 6.5 or so depending on track,for stock bruchless(13.5) around a 4.5fdr
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