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Old 05-22-2007, 02:18 AM   #8476
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try the rcmodel link

i think they have them, not 100% though
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Old 05-22-2007, 12:23 PM   #8477
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yub, yub, cmdr!
So... it gives caster up front and anti-squat rear?
Caster is set with the C Hubs, but you should just stick with the 4 degree ones. If im not mistake setting the height of the front pivot blocks is kick-up/anti-dive.

When the kit came out i assume their default setup didnt include the shims which i think also effect the roll center of the car as well as being used for kick-up / anti-squat.
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Old 05-22-2007, 10:31 PM   #8478
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NickM
I'm trying to sort out my WCE prior to the upcoming Challenge Cup event in a couple of weeks. I've been running mod and breaking MIP CVDs left and right - literally. First the left went, then the right...
Have you been using Loctite and have you been tightening the grub screw with a proper wrench?? If you use the kit supplied allen key, you will break them no question. IF you use a wrench you should be okay. I've not broken one since using a proper wrench.
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Old 05-22-2007, 10:50 PM   #8479
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Good point, although I do use a wrench. I'm known for overtightening, rather than not tightening enough...

You're suggesting they slip slightly, then break as a result, I take it. It's certainly a possibility. Although the pins are tearing all the way through the alloy cone-shaped outer piece, so I dunno whether they're slipping first a little, causing the problem, or whether it's sheer brute force ripping them out. This is with a Novak 3.5, albeit only at 70% throttle throw.

I'll snap a pic of the offending item when I get home tonite.
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Old 05-22-2007, 10:52 PM   #8480
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Heya Wing Chun,

Tamworth was not what i expected. I gave up trying to run mod as i just couldnt get the car around (not a good enough driver ). I have a lot of trouble judging distances and found the track too tight for my liking (especially in the back parts).

I paced some areas on the back stragith and thought it was under 3 metres wide in some areas.

I raced 19T but I still found it tough and never felt comfortable with the back half of that track. It was still too tight for me to allow people past or to pass people cleanly on a regular basis. One of my mates took my mutant cyclone S around for a few laps with the mod motor though and he said it was alright but was understeering a little, so at least i know its more of a driver issue than car setup

PS you should have had your name changed to MAD4HB
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Last edited by mangoman; 05-22-2007 at 11:09 PM.
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Old 05-22-2007, 11:20 PM   #8481
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Dont know the technicalities behind motors/speedies but i suspect even with 70% throttle throw on a 3.5 there is still massive amounts of power behind it. I would guess that limitting the throttle throw is more a case of limiting how fast the motor is able to spool up to.

If this is the case then if you still have the throttle down while you clip things or have accidents then the spool in the front will send massive amounts of torque through other parts of the drive train. If one of the pins had happened to slip in the cross joint of the cvd i can easily imagine that the cvd would be most unhappy
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Old 05-22-2007, 11:30 PM   #8482
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NickM
Good point, although I do use a wrench. I'm known for overtightening, rather than not tightening enough...

You're suggesting they slip slightly, then break as a result, I take it. It's certainly a possibility. Although the pins are tearing all the way through the alloy cone-shaped outer piece, so I dunno whether they're slipping first a little, causing the problem, or whether it's sheer brute force ripping them out. This is with a Novak 3.5, albeit only at 70% throttle throw.

I'll snap a pic of the offending item when I get home tonite.
Basically what happens is the pin slightly comes out of the CVD, meaning that ALL of the force is being applied to just one side of the alloy driveshaft. Eventually it won't be able to take it and will snap.

With those grub screws, do them up as tight as you can make them. Also, I routinely check them each run to make sure that the pin is still fully inside the alloy. And finally, if in doubt - tighten her up!
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Old 05-23-2007, 04:33 AM   #8483
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Default Spur Fast help

I know it has been told here befor but i need quick answer.
I know that biggest 64p spur that fit cyclone is 108T , what would be 48p with same diameter that fit, 78,79 or 80T?
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Old 05-23-2007, 04:41 AM   #8484
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(108/64)*48 = 81t
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Old 05-23-2007, 04:52 AM   #8485
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vroomtshh
(108/64)*48 = 81t
A technical answer! Noice one

I run an 81 with no clearance issues.
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Old 05-23-2007, 06:40 AM   #8486
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NickM
A technical answer! Noice one

I run an 81 with no clearance issues.
i ran the 110 spur on my cyclone with no issues either
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Old 05-23-2007, 06:42 AM   #8487
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomislav
I know it has been told here befor but i need quick answer.
I know that biggest 64p spur that fit cyclone is 108T , what would be 48p with same diameter that fit, 78,79 or 80T?
wrong 110 spur works with no problem ran one for over a year with no issues,so the 83t 48 pitch sput should work too
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Old 05-23-2007, 07:54 AM   #8488
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I've even run 111T when I need to run a 10.7 FDR with a 3.5.

However, I usually race with a LRP 4.5 now and I usually gear at around the 8.3-8.4 mark which means that I can use the 108 which sits nicely without the spur gear exposed under the chassis.

There is also a brushless motor mount for the Hotbodies Cyclone which allows you to run with bigger FDR out of the packet with no issues at all. Check out the HB website for more details if you didn't already know.
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Old 05-23-2007, 07:47 PM   #8489
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On my black version Cyclone, the diff pulley itself wobbles quite a bit no matter how much I tighten the differential itself. I mean, it's not slipping at all, the diff functions perfectly. But the pulley wobbles a lot.

How can I fix this?
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Old 05-23-2007, 08:43 PM   #8490
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yub yub

Mine is that way too on the older style wide pulley. I was scratching my head about it to, but I don't seem to see any way to cure it. The only way I can see a cure for it would be to use smaller diff balls, but I don't think that's a good idea. It's like the pulley is narrower than the diff balls. If you throttle up the car it doesn't wobble, and I've got lots of lap time on mine with no problems.

If you want to toy with it, measure the thickness of the pulley and see how much narrower it is than the diff balls.

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