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Old 05-19-2007, 03:25 PM   #8446
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if you are running a diff in the front,make sure that you built them with the 2 bearings and not with the shims.the shims are too thin and the outdrive will hop over the shim and make the outdrive run eccentric and create a chatter.i have seen this happen before to my buddy who built the diff as the instructions said to.you need to have the 2 bearings.
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Old 05-19-2007, 03:32 PM   #8447
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Check or replace your hub bearings also, one of them could have gotten damaged.
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Old 05-20-2007, 09:13 AM   #8448
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What parts of the CVD did you replace ?
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Old 05-20-2007, 02:03 PM   #8449
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Also check that the belt tensioners are set the same at each side of the car. Sorry if thats obvious, but I've seen people running them wrong
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Old 05-20-2007, 04:47 PM   #8450
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I have listed my Cyclone on Ebay if anyone is interested the auction number is: 230132174688

Thanks Willy
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Old 05-21-2007, 12:07 AM   #8451
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yub, yub, cmdr!
How do the clamp type wheel hubs work? Do I tighten them A LOT so that they don't fall off? And is excessive play here normal?
Dont crank them up tight otherwise the hex hub can crack
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Old 05-21-2007, 03:55 AM   #8452
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HVFracingwilly
I have listed my Cyclone on Ebay
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Old 05-21-2007, 07:36 AM   #8453
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Hey guy's
Here is one for the book's.
I set up my new chassis on my worlds and added 1.5 mm spacers under the blocks. Now when I went to set up the droop I could not get 3 mm of droop due to the arm not being able to drop far enough down, the best I could get was 4.5mm of droop. Have ever any of you guy's encountered this and If so, what did you do to obtain less droop. I set the car up and un screwed my droop screws, but to obtain a even and consistant even amount of droop on both sides the droop screw has to sit on the chassis. In this case the srew to have 3mm of droop is no where near the chassis.
Any help or comment's would be great here on this one as I know just how important droop is in Modified.
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Last edited by Wing Chun; 05-21-2007 at 07:57 AM.
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Old 05-21-2007, 07:48 AM   #8454
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wing Chun
Hey guy's
Here is one for the book's. I set up my new chassis on my worlds and added 1.5 mm spacers under the blocks. Now when I went to set up the droop I could not get 3 mm of droop due to the arm not being able to drop far enough down, the best I could get was 4.5mm of droop. Have ever any of you guys encountered this. If so what did you do to obtain less droop. I set the car up and un screwed my droop screws, but to obtain a even and consistant even amount of droop on both sides the droop screw has to sit on the chassis. In this case the srew to have 3mm of droop is no where near the chassis.
Any help or coments would be great here on this one as I know just how important droop is in Modified.
Thanks Guy's
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Most fill in the downstop settings at the droop section....


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Old 05-21-2007, 07:58 AM   #8455
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Hi Rob
Do you mean a longer droop screw?
Thanks addam
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Old 05-21-2007, 12:49 PM   #8456
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Why are you trying to run so much droop?

Try running 5mm front/rear on the droop gauge with ride height around 5mm also. This is a good starting point.
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Old 05-21-2007, 01:12 PM   #8457
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wing Chun
Hi Rob
Do you mean a longer droop screw?
Thanks addam

no he means most ppl dont use the spacers, just droop it
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Old 05-21-2007, 01:19 PM   #8458
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I'm at a loss here on the droop thing? Why would you want to run 3mm of droop? That would put your center of gravity way up high and put a hole bunch of ground clearance in there for the chassis.

You are also limited on the amount the arms will travel downward by the overall length of your shocks.

All of the set-up sheets that I've seen that use the spacing that you put in, still run 5-6 on the droop settings.
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Old 05-21-2007, 02:43 PM   #8459
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your droop adjustment is used to control weight transfer to the front and rear of the car during acceleration and deceleration.the more up travel over ride height that you have,the more weight transfer you will have.for instance,if you set your car to 2.5mm of uptravel or droop,the car will transfer weight forward until the screws hit the chassis and stop its upward travel.once the screws touch,the weight tranfer to the opposite end of the car is stopped and will hold that specific amount of weight over that end of the car until the car levels out.the more weight you allow to transfer,the more traction you will get to that end of the car.if you run less uptravel in the front,this will not allow as much weight to transfer to the rear of the car during acceleration and it will keep more weight towards the nose and in effect will increase on power steering.less in the rear will take away off power steering.you need to find the happy medium.i run 2.0-2.5mm front and rear uptravel on my car and it works great for me.
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Old 05-21-2007, 03:13 PM   #8460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wing Chun
Hey guy's
Here is one for the book's.
I set up my new chassis on my worlds and added 1.5 mm spacers under the blocks. Now when I went to set up the droop I could not get 3 mm of droop due to the arm not being able to drop far enough down, the best I could get was 4.5mm of droop. Have ever any of you guy's encountered this and If so, what did you do to obtain less droop. I set the car up and un screwed my droop screws, but to obtain a even and consistant even amount of droop on both sides the droop screw has to sit on the chassis. In this case the srew to have 3mm of droop is no where near the chassis.
Any help or comment's would be great here on this one as I know just how important droop is in Modified.
Thanks Guy's
Addam

you need to make the length of the shocks longer, if you run on a bumpy track you increase ride height and decrease droop.
unscrew the eyelet on the bottom of the shock but make sure the shocks are the same length.
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