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Old 05-10-2007, 01:47 AM   #8311
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Check the ackerman on the server saver we spent ages recently trying to find a problem where the stering was uneven side to side and it was because one of the balls on the servo saver as unscrewed about 1mm.
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Old 05-10-2007, 06:04 AM   #8312
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRFMAD
Hi Guy's
I really need your help on this one. I set my moorespeed up as Standard WCE setup. Now when I turn to the left the car has heaps of turn and under power throws the tail out.
But when I turn to the Right the car pushes and has understeer, I have checked the trow of the steering on the Hudy and it is spot on both ways. I am running a Orion Oscar Jansen 7x1 so there is alot of power there.
What should I look for to fix this problem.
I have set the springs by digital vernia callipers and they are spot on level. The droop and ride height is level, there is no tweek, should I add weight and if so where should I put it and how much should I add ?
Any help would be great.
Thanks In advance
Addam
Dude, I have the same problem and I tried every thing and still the same, at first the car was on, roll in the corners nice but after a few runs the car start acting up, I gave up and just put the car away, let me know if you find the problem.
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Old 05-10-2007, 07:42 AM   #8313
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BTW has the car always been like that TRFMAD?
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Old 05-10-2007, 08:05 AM   #8314
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TRFMAD,

Make sure your steering linkages are exactly the same length and that the steering arm is perfectly central when your wheels are straight. If they aren't then itll turn one way alot more than it will the other.

Hope this helps,

Phil.
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Old 05-10-2007, 08:53 AM   #8315
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TRFMAD,

I had the same issue last weekend. what I found was that under full suspension squat or close to it the RR dog bone was binding up in the diff.
I was using the wrong axles in the rear.

hope this helps
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Old 05-10-2007, 09:16 AM   #8316
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Goetter
TRFMAD,

I had the same issue last weekend. what I found was that under full suspension squat or close to it the RR dog bone was binding up in the diff.
I was using the wrong axles in the rear.

hope this helps
Ron, I have the regular Cyclone and the dog bone I think is the same, I am running two diff the plastic one, I don't know the car was running real nice before I did break a few steering block but that is it, took everything apart and check for tweek and none, but the car would just bite hard when I am doing a 180deg corners and the rear would kick out, I realy like the car but just don't have the time to put into cars any more so I just put it aside, thank you.
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Old 05-10-2007, 10:50 AM   #8317
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Okay Guys
I found the problem , When I Replaced the standard front and rear hubs and knuckle arms with the Jet racing Aluminium ones I shimed the hubs to take any slop out. The problem was I did not check to see if they were binding. Well guess what the right hand side was, when I loosened it up the car was turning both ways with equal amount of a very slight understeer.
So thank you to all with your replies so much.
Arn't I a real idiot for not checking that out in the first place. When 2-bad asked about if i used a tweak station I did use my MIP one but that was before I just changed the hubs over the other night, And I did not check them again, I put it on the tweak station tonight and I straight away noticed that the arm was binding.
Thanks All so much, Great to know you can jump on here and get some great advice and service from fellow racers from all around the globe.
I owe you all a Free golf lesson.
Thanks
Addam
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Old 05-10-2007, 01:49 PM   #8318
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Ramyuras,

my problem was I was running mip cvds off of my world car on a black version with delrin diff and the nut was hitting the axle shaft so I cut the nut to clear. Then the pins hit in the end of the diff slot. Since I didn't have any standard axles I ended up grinding alittle of the pins so they would clear.
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Old 05-10-2007, 04:14 PM   #8319
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Ahhh yeah, thats another good thing about carbon graphite knuckles. When you screw things into them you can then unscrew them a touch and they are still securely fixed.

With aluminium you would have to use a lot of loctite if you wanted to do that and not have screws falling out.
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Old 05-10-2007, 04:21 PM   #8320
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Oh so is that the difference between the front and rear universals on the black cyclone!!! I was wondering why they sold a front and rear version. Pretty badly named though i guess you would have problems if you ran a front ball diff.
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Old 05-10-2007, 06:43 PM   #8321
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I will be running a front ball diff; does this mean new universals that I'll have to buy too?
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Old 05-11-2007, 02:57 AM   #8322
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With a ball diff you are probably better off going v2 universals anyway as they seem to fit in better. I was asking if anyone knows about getting v1 ball diff outdrives but noone answered so i dont know if they exist or not (outside of the plastic Cyclone S ones).
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Old 05-11-2007, 02:58 AM   #8323
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Hey guys.. so i just bought a cyclone. i haven't built a car in years.. just getting back into the sport.. last car i built was like er.. probably 7 years ago.. lol. so just wondering if u guys have any tips on how to build it properly... i'm gonna get back into racing.. so i really wanna build this right.. if u guys have any sites to link me to it would be much appreciated. also what tools are needed? I'm gonna buy everything in one shot.. cyclone's arriving tml.. gonna have a fun weekend!
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Old 05-11-2007, 05:32 AM   #8324
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dorick
Hey guys.. so i just bought a cyclone. i haven't built a car in years.. just getting back into the sport.. last car i built was like er.. probably 7 years ago.. lol. so just wondering if u guys have any tips on how to build it properly... i'm gonna get back into racing.. so i really wanna build this right.. if u guys have any sites to link me to it would be much appreciated. also what tools are needed? I'm gonna buy everything in one shot.. cyclone's arriving tml.. gonna have a fun weekend!
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Old 05-11-2007, 09:08 AM   #8325
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Before you start your build, I'd find a set-up sheet you want to use first and incorporate some of those adjustments in your build. It will save you from having to undo a lot of things that the manual tells you to do. I also looked at Hara's build page where he is using power tools, not a good idea! Power tools are good for taking apart, but not for putting together. Also, be sparingly with the locktite, you don't want it getting into places you don't want it.
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