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Old 05-08-2007, 10:53 AM   #8296
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yub, yub, cmdr!
Which version diff cups and driveshafts are the Cyclone black?
The black cyclone will come with the standard plastic diff outdrives.


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Old 05-08-2007, 10:59 AM   #8297
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drcy
I am going to Chicago next week.

Please let me know about the shops in Chicago or Internet shops in the USA, where I can buy 3racing and other Hop ups for my Cyclone Moorespeed.

thanks in advance

Pedro
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after will have 5 cell main chassis
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Old 05-08-2007, 04:44 PM   #8298
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Do you think I'll be able to swing it with the stock outdrives but an 11T Checkpoint?
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Old 05-08-2007, 04:45 PM   #8299
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yub, yub, cmdr!
Do you think I'll be able to swing it with the stock outdrives but an 11T Checkpoint?
i ran the stock outdrives with a novak 3.5
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Old 05-08-2007, 04:52 PM   #8300
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Ah. Is it just me or is Hara building his car by tapping a lot of the screw holes beforehand?
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Old 05-08-2007, 06:43 PM   #8301
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If I will be running an 11T Checkpoint on a totally stock Cyclone, what is a midrange pinion gear that I should run to get a gear ratio that is in the middle?

I understand how to calculate gearing; I just don't know what range I should aim for for an 11T motor.
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Old 05-08-2007, 08:45 PM   #8302
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Gearing of motors is something you should probably refer a checkpoint thread, or representative. Unless someone else has an 11T Checkpoint (same model if there is more than one) we wont be able to accurately answer that question.

Each motor has its own optimal gearing. You cant reliably gear motors the same, even if they are of the same wind.
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Old 05-09-2007, 05:32 PM   #8303
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Just last weekend I fitted my old xray FK05 carbon battery bar to my WCE cyclone. Fits rather well, imho. Just requires a countersunk hole drilled on each end of the battery compartment and voila. I was going to also use the battery stops linked in the quoted post by 2-bad, but haven't yet. In one huge impact on the weekend the battery came out, so I'll probably add them eventually (rather than, say, pad the bottom of the battery bar to make it tight on the cells). It's important not to have the strap tight and doing all the work keeping them in, or the car will tweak.

Recommended upgrade. Particularly for someone like me that happened to have xray parts lying around gathering dust. Throw away the tape for good!

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2-Bad
Dave,
I've heard you can fit an X-ray battery strap with some modifications from one of there "annually released" cars (don't know which one), but I've never attempted this and don't know the procedure. Also these might be useful as well if you are contemplating this task.


Are you having trouble with tape? or just don't like it??
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Old 05-09-2007, 06:24 PM   #8304
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mangoman
You would be better off looking at some of the Square RC stuff.
Gotta site for the SQUARE R/C cyclone parts? Thanks!
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Old 05-09-2007, 07:00 PM   #8305
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http://www.rc-square.com/

only that it is Japanese....
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Old 05-09-2007, 07:16 PM   #8306
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcos.J
i ran the stock outdrives with a novak 3.5
I hopped up to the aluminum, first couple of minutes into the run, snapped the diff screw . Rear diff is still holding true and SPANKING dudes!
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Old 05-09-2007, 07:18 PM   #8307
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Hi Guy's
I really need your help on this one. I set my moorespeed up as Standard WCE setup. Now when I turn to the left the car has heaps of turn and under power throws the tail out.
But when I turn to the Right the car pushes and has understeer, I have checked the trow of the steering on the Hudy and it is spot on both ways. I am running a Orion Oscar Jansen 7x1 so there is alot of power there.
What should I look for to fix this problem.
I have set the springs by digital vernia callipers and they are spot on level. The droop and ride height is level, there is no tweek, should I add weight and if so where should I put it and how much should I add ?
Any help would be great.
Thanks In advance
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Old 05-09-2007, 07:53 PM   #8308
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I was having issues with my car with it spinning out on power coming out of the corner. The only thing i can remember doing is stiffening up the rear.

But you might want to check the hinge pins, in the Pro 4 they used to get bent easily (thats the pins holding the arms onto the pivot blocks). If they are bent really badly you can see it when looking at the arms without pulling the pins out.

Actually i do recall changing out some of the hinge pins but dont remember when i did it.
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Old 05-09-2007, 08:34 PM   #8309
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mangoman
I was having issues with my car with it spinning out on power coming out of the corner. The only thing i can remember doing is stiffening up the rear.

But you might want to check the hinge pins, in the Pro 4 they used to get bent easily (thats the pins holding the arms onto the pivot blocks). If they are bent really badly you can see it when looking at the arms without pulling the pins out.

Actually i do recall changing out some of the hinge pins but dont remember when i did it.

Thanks Mango
The only concern is the car is new and it is that I get a different results for each direction I turn. Normally I would just change the set up to correct this but it is really different between left and right.
Thanks addam
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Old 05-09-2007, 10:24 PM   #8310
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Addam,
Are you using a tweak station to determine you don't have tweak? Because it sounds like the chassis is tweaked to me....
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