Hot Bodies Cyclone
04-30-2007, 12:05 PM
#8146
yyhayyim
Shalom, no hard feelings from the other thread.
That being said, I am running a FD of 9.75 in 64p. To me, the car feels faster than it did when I ran 9.4 FD with 48p...anyone have any suggestions as to why? Same set-up, just changed the gears.
That being said, I am running a FD of 9.75 in 64p. To me, the car feels faster than it did when I ran 9.4 FD with 48p...anyone have any suggestions as to why? Same set-up, just changed the gears.
04-30-2007, 12:10 PM
#8147
I've been using the Kyosho diff hardware from their Stallion. It's bullet proof.
You will have to drill out the halfs due to the larger screw dia. and will have to grind about 1mm off the thread end so that it doesn't jam up the axle blade. It also requires a 1.5mm washer under the nut retainer.
The Kyosho part #'s are:
TF120---- Diff Screw (with two nuts)
BRG100--- Thrust Brg (Balls/washers)
UM124---- Spring (I think original HB spring may work)
TF113---- Nut Retainer ( this is a full tree of parts that has to bought just for the nut retainer)
I believe this to be the ultimate fix (unless you want to go with the Xray hardware). It's about 20 bucks in parts and like I said it's bullet proof AND there's a slot in the screw head just the like old one which allows for easy adjustments.
I haven't tried this with plastic diffs.
You will have to drill out the halfs due to the larger screw dia. and will have to grind about 1mm off the thread end so that it doesn't jam up the axle blade. It also requires a 1.5mm washer under the nut retainer.
The Kyosho part #'s are:
TF120---- Diff Screw (with two nuts)
BRG100--- Thrust Brg (Balls/washers)
UM124---- Spring (I think original HB spring may work)
TF113---- Nut Retainer ( this is a full tree of parts that has to bought just for the nut retainer)
I believe this to be the ultimate fix (unless you want to go with the Xray hardware). It's about 20 bucks in parts and like I said it's bullet proof AND there's a slot in the screw head just the like old one which allows for easy adjustments.
I haven't tried this with plastic diffs.
04-30-2007, 12:13 PM
#8148
Originally Posted by jag88
I've been using the Kyosho diff hardware from their Stallion. It's bullet proof.
You will have to drill out the halfs due to the larger screw dia. and will have to grind about 1mm off the thread end so that it doesn't jam up the axle blade. It also requires a 1.5mm washer under the nut retainer.
The Kyosho part #'s are:
TF120---- Diff Screw (with two nuts)
BRG100--- Thrust Brg (Balls/washers)
UM124---- Spring (I think original HB spring may work)
TF113---- Nut Retainer ( this is a full tree of parts that has to bought just for the nut retainer)
I believe this to be the ultimate fix (unless you want to go with the Xray hardware). It's about 20 bucks in parts and like I said it's bullet proof AND there's a slot in the screw head just the like old one which allows for easy adjustments.
I haven't tried this with plastic diffs.
You will have to drill out the halfs due to the larger screw dia. and will have to grind about 1mm off the thread end so that it doesn't jam up the axle blade. It also requires a 1.5mm washer under the nut retainer.
The Kyosho part #'s are:
TF120---- Diff Screw (with two nuts)
BRG100--- Thrust Brg (Balls/washers)
UM124---- Spring (I think original HB spring may work)
TF113---- Nut Retainer ( this is a full tree of parts that has to bought just for the nut retainer)
I believe this to be the ultimate fix (unless you want to go with the Xray hardware). It's about 20 bucks in parts and like I said it's bullet proof AND there's a slot in the screw head just the like old one which allows for easy adjustments.
I haven't tried this with plastic diffs.
some one else figured out my secret
04-30-2007, 12:43 PM
#8149
jw here
BUT i want to put that cf decal on the speedo, servo, rx, and motor... now i need to know, is it illeagal or anything to put a different decal on and get rid of the stocker?
BUT i want to put that cf decal on the speedo, servo, rx, and motor... now i need to know, is it illeagal or anything to put a different decal on and get rid of the stocker?
04-30-2007, 03:07 PM
#8150
Does someone have a part # for the original (black) cyclone wheel axle (non MIP) and rebuild kit ?
I lost my manual.
Thanks.
I lost my manual.
Thanks.
04-30-2007, 03:16 PM
#8151
Originally Posted by jag88
Does someone have a part # for the original (black) cyclone wheel axle (non MIP) and rebuild kit ?
I lost my manual.
Thanks.
I lost my manual.
Thanks.
http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/manuals/hb55400.pdf
04-30-2007, 03:29 PM
#8152
Originally Posted by jag88
I lost my manual.
Thanks.
Thanks.
lol, there
anyone else here tension there belt with the lil hex that go into the bulks? my belt got streatched with the mm, so i move those and now there like new again lol
04-30-2007, 08:01 PM
#8158
Originally Posted by jag88
I've been using the Kyosho diff hardware from their Stallion. It's bullet proof.
You will have to drill out the halfs due to the larger screw dia. and will have to grind about 1mm off the thread end so that it doesn't jam up the axle blade. It also requires a 1.5mm washer under the nut retainer.
The Kyosho part #'s are:
TF120---- Diff Screw (with two nuts)
BRG100--- Thrust Brg (Balls/washers)
UM124---- Spring (I think original HB spring may work)
TF113---- Nut Retainer ( this is a full tree of parts that has to bought just for the nut retainer)
I believe this to be the ultimate fix (unless you want to go with the Xray hardware). It's about 20 bucks in parts and like I said it's bullet proof AND there's a slot in the screw head just the like old one which allows for easy adjustments.
I haven't tried this with plastic diffs.
You will have to drill out the halfs due to the larger screw dia. and will have to grind about 1mm off the thread end so that it doesn't jam up the axle blade. It also requires a 1.5mm washer under the nut retainer.
The Kyosho part #'s are:
TF120---- Diff Screw (with two nuts)
BRG100--- Thrust Brg (Balls/washers)
UM124---- Spring (I think original HB spring may work)
TF113---- Nut Retainer ( this is a full tree of parts that has to bought just for the nut retainer)
I believe this to be the ultimate fix (unless you want to go with the Xray hardware). It's about 20 bucks in parts and like I said it's bullet proof AND there's a slot in the screw head just the like old one which allows for easy adjustments.
I haven't tried this with plastic diffs.
04-30-2007, 11:30 PM
#8159
HPI released a low traction arms set for the Pro 4 about 2 or 3 years back. Not sure if they are still in production, but they were extremely cheap, $10 or £6 for a full set (yes 2 front and 2 rear).
05-01-2007, 02:34 AM
#8160
Originally Posted by Skill
HPI released a low traction arms set for the Pro 4 about 2 or 3 years back. Not sure if they are still in production, but they were extremely cheap, $10 or £6 for a full set (yes 2 front and 2 rear).