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Old 04-27-2007, 12:31 PM   #8116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcos.J
yes it was someone forgot to brake
I hope it wasnt an XRay driver trying to keep up with you ;P
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Old 04-27-2007, 01:29 PM   #8117
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Ya know, with my jumping into belts, posing a question and having you cats talk about like I am invisible, has me ready to barf! Why are Cyclone diffs composite more expensive that the aluminum?
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Old 04-27-2007, 01:31 PM   #8118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
the plastic outdrives are machined Acetel(delrin) with machined aluminum retainer clips.they are a more expensive part to make.they are more difficult to make and Acetel is more expensive than aluminum.

I think Jason answered you pretty well the other day.
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Old 04-27-2007, 01:34 PM   #8119
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And surprisly, delrin seems to last.
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Old 04-27-2007, 02:55 PM   #8120
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Originally Posted by Kwikvdub
And surprisly, delrin seems to last.
IMO, the aluminium seems to develop a little play after about 4-6 months of use. The blades seem to be harder then the aluminium. Don't know what material the blades are made from, maybe it's "delrin" . I've had the delrin in since January, and with regard to wear; if it's not better then, it's at least as good as aluminium. I would imagine its lighter and I also think it makes the diff smoother as well.


Has anyone had trouble with wear on the aluminium centre pulleys? I'm assuming that this wear is coming from belt skip/wrap around the pulley because of the size and material of the pulley. I had heard that Tamiya went from a 15t to a 17t pulley to stop there excessive wear they were getting, but don't know for sure. I've just stuck in some 3Racing centre pulleys (and new belts) to see if it actually works/fixes it...
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Old 04-27-2007, 03:20 PM   #8121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2-Bad
IMO, the aluminium seems to develop a little play after about 4-6 months of use. The blades seem to be harder then the aluminium. Don't know what material the blades are made from, maybe it's "delrin" . I've had the delrin in since January, and with regard to wear; if it's not better then, it's at least as good as aluminium. I would imagine its lighter and I also think it makes the diff smoother as well.


Has anyone had trouble with wear on the aluminium centre pulleys? I'm assuming that this wear is coming from belt skip/wrap around the pulley because of the size and material of the pulley. I had heard that Tamiya went from a 15t to a 17t pulley to stop there excessive wear they were getting, but don't know for sure. I've just stuck in some 3Racing centre pulleys (and new belts) to see if it actually works/fixes it...
wear did you hear tamiya went from 15 to 17 tooth centre pullys as tamiya have a 16 tooth pully on the 415 415ms 415msx 415msx mre 415msxx and the ta05 to be honest the wear rate of the centre pully on the cyclone is pretty good comparied to the tamiya if your that cocerned the 3 racing pullys are pretty good ive not run one on the cyclone but i had one on the tamiya and they use the same pullys the only iffrence is the holder.
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Old 04-27-2007, 04:30 PM   #8122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stuey
wear did you hear tamiya went from 15 to 17 tooth centre pullys as tamiya have a 16 tooth pully on the 415 415ms 415msx 415msx mre 415msxx and the ta05 to be honest the wear rate of the centre pully on the cyclone is pretty good comparied to the tamiya if your that cocerned the 3 racing pullys are pretty good ive not run one on the cyclone but i had one on the tamiya and they use the same pullys the only iffrence is the holder.
The Clone's pulleys maybe be better then Tamiya as you suggest, but I've never had any wear on pulleys from preivious cars and so this is what got my interest in why it's happening. I guess I'd replace the front belt & pulley once every 4-6 months, which isn't excessive I agree, but if there's another product on the market that means you never had to replace pulleys, well then why not.
Glad to hear your experience with 3Racing pulleys are good, as it should follow on in this case as well.
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Old 04-27-2007, 08:56 PM   #8123
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Default BMI Cyclone Carpet Chassis

Anyone knows how big the improvement is from stock chassis to BMI carpet chassis on carpet tracks? Any online store has it?
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Old 04-28-2007, 06:45 AM   #8124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mangoman
I hope it wasnt an XRay driver trying to keep up with you ;P
i believe it was a Corally-
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Old 04-28-2007, 08:30 AM   #8125
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Gday all
Just wanting to compile a list of the best CYCLONE parts and suppliers...
and in the process build the ultimate cyclone....

Add 1.
Andy moore cycone
2. GTB-novak 5.5 (rc mart)
3.ver.2 steel drive shafts, or maybe, (team almighty) titanimum cvds?(dinball)
4. ali rear hubs
5. ali c hub carrryers
6. ali fnt knuckels

Im sure there will be plenty of different views but that will only make it better.
horses for courses, carpet and asphalt
any constructive input welcome
above is what i have to start with in my transporter,, there must be plenty more others have comeacross..
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Old 04-28-2007, 09:49 AM   #8126
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Right, there went the third diff screw...this is getting annoying.

Thinking about doing something drastic now, like drilling the diff screw hole from 2mm to 2,5mm and stick a schumacher hardened diff screw and nut in there. I know they last!
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Old 04-28-2007, 10:59 AM   #8127
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROV
Gday all
Just wanting to compile a list of the best CYCLONE parts and suppliers...
and in the process build the ultimate cyclone....
The Cyclone WCE is already the ultimate Cyclone. It's a proven winner on the track.

Perhaps building the Ultimate Cyclone Driver would be a better idea.
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Old 04-28-2007, 11:53 AM   #8128
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Drill both halves out to 2.5mm and just the standard screw. When the diff is run the screw bends slightly and when it hits the side it snaps. You will probably notice marking on the old screw when this happens. Also dont over lubricate the diff and do the final tightening of the diff in the car this makes sure that it is not overtightened.
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Old 04-28-2007, 02:43 PM   #8129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jan Larsen
Right, there went the third diff screw...this is getting annoying.

Thinking about doing something drastic now, like drilling the diff screw hole from 2mm to 2,5mm and stick a schumacher hardened diff screw and nut in there. I know they last!
Have you tried putting another washer under the diff nut as well (same as the one under the diff spring)? Also, only tighten the diff so its firm but you can still make it slip with constant pressure with your hands. I use to over tighten them to the point where the diff would bite/crack when I tested if and that was wayyy to tight for Clone diffs. It's hard to explain, sorry but don't loose hope, I broke 4 before I made these changes and I'm still running the standard screw. I know how you feel, hanging in there....
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Old 04-28-2007, 06:12 PM   #8130
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Diff screws i've had no problem SINCE
put extra washer on spring side,,so bolt, washer, balls,washer, spring, washer,washer
blk z203

dont use black z 203 use a steel washer,,,lets spring slip on the washers not hub..

Also someone posted a thread that was HARA assemble in chinese,but the photo showed him putting a 1mm purple shim washer on the brass plastic nut side..of diff.
seems to me that the spring in some is not flat top & bottom you can see the bolt angle when you tighten
Good luck ive seen guys at the track pull hair out with 3 laps to go...
Sounds like 2-bad is on it....
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