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Old 04-25-2007, 12:22 AM   #8101
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It changes your roll center. You're probably best reading the following link: http://home.scarlet.be/~be067749/58/ , go to suspension>roll center.
Another thing you can change with it is the anti-dive/kick-up (front) and anti-squat (rear).
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Old 04-25-2007, 02:20 PM   #8102
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Why are the metal outdrives w/blades cheaper than the composite outdrives?

BUMP, ahem TTT
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Old 04-25-2007, 11:14 PM   #8103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thraex
For those who are having problems with snapping diff screws, I haven't broken anyone so far. I'm using the titanium one from HB, but the one from Edit will also work. Another thing I always do is loosening the diff screw at the end of a race/practise day, so there isn't a constant pressure on the screw (only when you use it).
I did many diff screws, i followed peoples advice here, drilled out the short side of the diff with a 3mm drill, and placed a 1mm suspension shim under the diff nut. No more problems to date.
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Old 04-26-2007, 10:07 AM   #8104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Besercoe
I did many diff screws, i followed peoples advice here, drilled out the short side of the diff with a 3mm drill, and placed a 1mm suspension shim under the diff nut. No more problems to date.
yes me too !
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Old 04-26-2007, 04:19 PM   #8105
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I have been running the Cyclone for almost a year now and I have broken maybe 3 screws (2 in 1 day really pissed me off!). But... on the whole, I don't really see a problem with the diffs the way that they are as long as you know how to build them in the first place, and know how much tension to give them. The main problem is that people tighten them up too much. You need to give them a little bit of slip otherwise it will snap.

Also... its very important to break them in, particularly by hand. Andy showed me step-by-step how he builds his diffs and by simply breaking the diff in by hand, you really shouldn't have a problem (I haven't broken one in around 3 months, and I haven't had them loosening off too). The main thing is that the diff feels really free, yet also has a very strong action. When you build your diff, build it loose and tighten it up in the car. That'll help prevent you to not overtighten.
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Old 04-26-2007, 04:21 PM   #8106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F. Alonso
I have been running the Cyclone for almost a year now and I have broken maybe 3 screws (2 in 1 day really pissed me off!). But... on the whole, I don't really see a problem with the diffs the way that they are as long as you know how to build them in the first place, and know how much tension to give them. The main problem is that people tighten them up too much. You need to give them a little bit of slip otherwise it will snap.

Also... its very important to break them in, particularly by hand. Andy showed me step-by-step how he builds his diffs and by simply breaking the diff in by hand, you really shouldn't have a problem (I haven't broken one in around 3 months, and I haven't had them loosening off too). The main thing is that the diff feels really free, yet also has a very strong action. When you build your diff, build it loose and tighten it up in the car. That'll help prevent you to not overtighten.
i only broke one and it was due to someone hitting my car at the rear tire
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Old 04-26-2007, 04:59 PM   #8107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bxpitbull
Why are the metal outdrives w/blades cheaper than the composite outdrives?

BUMP, ahem TTT
are you talking about the rear diff? My Cyclone (blk ed.) rear diff is machined Delrin or something like that. it's not composite like the ones i had on my Pro4.
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Old 04-26-2007, 06:47 PM   #8108
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the plastic outdrives are machined Acetel(delrin) with machined aluminum retainer clips.they are a more expensive part to make.they are more difficult to make and Acetel is more expensive than aluminum.
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Old 04-26-2007, 07:47 PM   #8109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcos.J
i only broke one and it was due to someone hitting my car at the rear tire
Sounds like a hard impact!
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Old 04-26-2007, 07:48 PM   #8110
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Quote:
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Sounds like a hard impact!
yes it was someone forgot to brake
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Old 04-26-2007, 08:58 PM   #8111
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The Cyclone S diff outdrives are about $5.
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Old 04-26-2007, 10:33 PM   #8112
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Gday my andy moore cyclone, when i hit a bump it seems to slip diff
for a few seconds untill you back off and turn a bit,cant tell if its fnt or back.got one way in fnt..

then it's like nothing happend.....and i can't find the problem yet if it would just fully break i will find out what it is.but i dont want it to (KODAK) develop..

any suggestions????
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Old 04-26-2007, 11:33 PM   #8113
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Try cleaning out and re-oiling your one-way diff. One-way bearings can be quite delicate and only need the smallest bit of grit/dirt on the rollers and it can cause them to slip. Maybe is it just slipping when it takes a lot of stick but under normal driving conditions its ok.
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Old 04-27-2007, 03:13 AM   #8114
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Cheers done that and found bad fnt bearing 10 x 15x4mm....
and cleaned out one way....
hope that was it....
Cheers unlesss this has happen to any one else???
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Old 04-27-2007, 03:29 AM   #8115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dodgeguy
The Cyclone S diff outdrives are about $5.
Yeah they are also a pretty soft plastic relative to the other outdrives.

Probably suitable for stock but id be worried about using it in other classes
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