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Old 04-21-2007, 03:18 AM   #8056
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Same here, but both drive shaft are shot and the spool has a lot of play in it.
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Old 04-21-2007, 04:01 AM   #8057
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From what I've heard the ver.2 steel driveshafts are the ones to go for if you're running the spool. I've been running the ver.1 steel ones and they've been great.

What do you mean by play in the spool? At the outdrives you mean?

Thanks,
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Old 04-21-2007, 04:25 AM   #8058
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yellowtaro
l am using 48p gears and is gearing for brushless 13.5. I have noticed that certain combination of gears, they do not mesh together. If I am looking for ratio of 4.9, do you think that the gears will mesh? What combination you used so the gears will mesh? Thanks.
you can try a 69 spur and a 35 which will give you 4.8 FDR or 34 for approximately 4.65 FDR
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Old 04-21-2007, 07:25 AM   #8059
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRFMAD
Hey Guy's
Do you guy's have any links to good reading, stories, advice, setups on the Cyclone. Like Tryhard has a great one for the 415 is there anything like that for the Cyclone.
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http://www.cyclonedepot.com/site/
http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/index2.php?lang=en

Last edited by jag88; 04-21-2007 at 08:42 AM.
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Old 04-21-2007, 08:48 AM   #8060
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skill
From what I've heard the ver.2 steel driveshafts are the ones to go for if you're running the spool. I've been running the ver.1 steel ones and they've been great.

What do you mean by play in the spool? At the outdrives you mean?

Thanks,
Where the pin goes through the removable outdrive and the spool. The pin need to be about 0.1mm bigger. Creates backslash. So far it hasn't hurt the spool or the outdrives, but the driveshafts are toast, mostly due to that I think. I'm running the Moore Speed alu shafts. Will see if I can hunt down a set of the steel ones.
Since I dont have extra shafts lying around, I've switched the fronts to the rear and vice versa to reduce wear a little.

Last edited by Jan Larsen; 04-21-2007 at 09:02 AM.
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Old 04-21-2007, 09:01 AM   #8061
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Ah OK thanks a lot. Something like a semi-permanent glue could solve that problem quite easily I'd have thought. If I find the same when I get mine I might dry a dab of "Fendermender" (shoo-goo) on the pin.

EDIT: Just seen your edit. As far as I am aware, HB don't make an MIP Steel bone, so you'd have to use the universals. I don't have the part numbers to hand, but a quick search on the HB Europe site (www.hbeurope.com) should work.
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Old 04-21-2007, 09:05 AM   #8062
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Yeah, but make sure it's semi-permanent! You need to disassemble it if you switch from spool to oneway or the other way around.

The idea with removable outdrives is great, but the pin just needs to be that tiny bit bigger.

And I just saw your edit...lol. Deleted mine since I found it minutes after...go figure. Is it these you're thinking about? http://www.hbeurope.com/piw.php?lang=en&partNo=61403
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Old 04-21-2007, 10:02 AM   #8063
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You could buy that but that set comes with the aluminium driveshafts which are probably even worse for bending than the MIP's that come with the WCE.

http://www.hbeurope.com/piw.php?partNo=61398&lang=en these are the steel ones which you want, but you will need to buy the axles and rebuild kit separately (might be cheaper to buy the set with aluminium driveshafts?)
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Old 04-21-2007, 10:20 AM   #8064
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I am unclear about something. I have the original version and wants to run a spool for the Reedy race. Will the ver.2 or WCE MIP drive shaft (bones) fits the universal axles of the black version?

What is the part number for the pulley to be used with Ver3 spool?

I assume for the rules for the Reedy race, i need to change the one way center pulley to a direct pulley?

Thanks
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Old 04-21-2007, 10:27 AM   #8065
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yeah mips will work in place of black shafts as a whole unit. little lighter to.
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Old 04-23-2007, 11:11 PM   #8066
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I got a Cyclone S, and i brought a spool for it (part no. 61045) but the original dogbones dont fit into the cups. I also want to buy a set of uni's for it aswell. Can someone please tell me which spool I need and which Uni's to get?
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Old 04-24-2007, 06:49 AM   #8067
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Guys I have a little issue with my cyclone, when I got the car it will just go around the 180deg corner real smooth, I got the BMI chassis and the first couple of times I race the car it was also smooth around the corners, but now entering these same corners the front will bite real hard and the rear want to just kick out, I didn't change any thing with the setup did look real good for any breakage and the only part was crack was the steering block, change it and still have the same problem, any suggestion.
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Old 04-24-2007, 06:54 AM   #8068
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Possibly you chassis is catching on the ground at the front?, maybe the swaybar mount is loose?
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Old 04-24-2007, 07:24 AM   #8069
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fathead
Possibly you chassis is catching on the ground at the front?, maybe the swaybar mount is loose?
I am racing indoor carpet, I don't use the swaybars and the chassis not touching the carpet I would see the black marks, thank you tho.
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Old 04-24-2007, 07:39 AM   #8070
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Have you checked for tweak? I know that the BMI chassis should be less susceptable to tweak but I spose it can still happen. Also, you say you broke your steering block, make sure you check the hinge pins/shock shafts in that area to make sure they haven't been bent.
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