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Old 04-15-2007, 07:18 AM   #7951
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fwiw...

i bought a new team powers "twister" fan very recently :
http://www.team-powers.com/pub_html/index.htm

i mounted it for my novak velociti 6.5r motor. i have the fan cable-tied to the motor heat-sink, but the cable ties themselves are not in contact with the motor casing. i had the power for the fan drawn from the unused 3rd channel port on my nomadio v2 transceiver. here's a pic :



this fan works very well imo. gave it a couple of runs today - motor temp clocked in at 105 deg F max after a 40mins+ (drifting) run (novak's "comfortable" temp range is 160-180 deg F (max)). i have the motor geared at 9.23:1, higher than novak's suggested range of 7.75-8.5:1 (for touring with rubber tyres).

if you're not restricted to a narrow range of motors... my approach was to select a motor that's designed to run quite a bit faster than what i wanted, then gear it a bit higher - this keeps the temp on the esc and motor cooler so there's less chance of thermalling. not necessarily something you want to do, but it works very well for me.

that cool can fan looks goodl!

Last edited by sidewaysdriver6; 04-15-2007 at 07:23 AM. Reason: typo
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Old 04-15-2007, 12:44 PM   #7952
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sidewaysdriver6
fwiw...

i bought a new team powers "twister" fan very recently :
http://www.team-powers.com/pub_html/index.htm

i mounted it for my novak velociti 6.5r motor. i have the fan cable-tied to the motor heat-sink, but the cable ties themselves are not in contact with the motor casing. i had the power for the fan drawn from the unused 3rd channel port on my nomadio v2 transceiver. here's a pic :



this fan works very well imo. gave it a couple of runs today - motor temp clocked in at 105 deg F max after a 40mins+ (drifting) run (novak's "comfortable" temp range is 160-180 deg F (max)). i have the motor geared at 9.23:1, higher than novak's suggested range of 7.75-8.5:1 (for touring with rubber tyres).

if you're not restricted to a narrow range of motors... my approach was to select a motor that's designed to run quite a bit faster than what i wanted, then gear it a bit higher - this keeps the temp on the esc and motor cooler so there's less chance of thermalling. not necessarily something you want to do, but it works very well for me.

that cool can fan looks goodl!
use this motor don't need fan to cool down motor,
because inside with fan system.
http://rcmarket.com.hk/product_info.php?products_id=673
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Old 04-15-2007, 01:19 PM   #7953
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im racing stock.... not mod, so i need a 13.5..

that fans looks nice tho! site doent work to well tho lol
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Old 04-15-2007, 01:22 PM   #7954
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackedOutREVO
im racing stock.... not mod, so i need a 13.5..

that fans looks nice tho! site doent work to well tho lol
with the sintered rotor you shouldnt need that windtunnel mounted on top of the motor
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Old 04-15-2007, 02:16 PM   #7955
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he pointed out a bl motor, im using a trinity co 27 rite now, i want bl but my wallet doesnt like the idea lol, but this is my only car that isnt bl lol
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Old 04-15-2007, 02:31 PM   #7956
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2-Bad
I made a mistake.. as posted on Post #7910 (one page back)

You aren't very forgiving are you.. or are you just soo "Perfect"

I'm glad all americans aren't like "YOU"
I am cut and dry. Stop sniveling and come back a lil snippy.
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Old 04-15-2007, 02:42 PM   #7957
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Quote:
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I am cut and dry
typical jarhead
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Old 04-15-2007, 04:18 PM   #7958
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Originally Posted by Marcos.J

typical jarhead
Damn str8. The guy jumps in my pm box and wants to trade shots. Man. It's all in jest to break the monotony. Some guys are so sensitive.
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Old 04-15-2007, 06:12 PM   #7959
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I sincerely apologize if this has been asked and answered, but my search on the thread resulted in 150+ posts.. I looked through as many as I could stand to.

Anyhow.. I Just purchased a standard Cyclone kit from Stormer Hobbies a week or so ago. And while assembling, the Front One-Way pulley doesn't look anything like the one in the manual, though it does seem to bolt on properly. And my main question:

The Front and Rear diff pulleys appear very strange to me. Are they suppose to have one 'side' that refuses to snap on or stay in place? Am I suppose to glue it on? And if so, why in the hell wouldn't they have just molded it as one piece? I'm very disappointed with the parts and instructions in this kit.
To be more detailed if necessary, the diff pulley appears to only have 1 sidewall to keep the belt from sliding off the pulley. The other 'side' looks like it should pressfit or snap into the pulley on the other side, to keep the belt from sliding off that side, but it doesn't stay on... very poor manufacturing and or instructions in this case.


Should I complain to HB? will they send me the correct parts quickly? Anyone have a clue what I'm talking about?


Just a bit upset, as I've 'heard' that this is a very good car and I am un-impressed so far.
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Old 04-15-2007, 06:22 PM   #7960
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mustangz
I sincerely apologize if this has been asked and answered, but my search on the thread resulted in 150+ posts.. I looked through as many as I could stand to.

Anyhow.. I Just purchased a standard Cyclone kit from Stormer Hobbies a week or so ago. And while assembling, the Front One-Way pulley doesn't look anything like the one in the manual, though it does seem to bolt on properly. And my main question:

The Front and Rear diff pulleys appear very strange to me. Are they suppose to have one 'side' that refuses to snap on or stay in place? Am I suppose to glue it on? And if so, why in the hell wouldn't they have just molded it as one piece? I'm very disappointed with the parts and instructions in this kit.
To be more detailed if necessary, the diff pulley appears to only have 1 sidewall to keep the belt from sliding off the pulley. The other 'side' looks like it should pressfit or snap into the pulley on the other side, to keep the belt from sliding off that side, but it doesn't stay on... very poor manufacturing and or instructions in this case.


Should I complain to HB? will they send me the correct parts quickly? Anyone have a clue what I'm talking about?


Just a bit upset, as I've 'heard' that this is a very good car and I am un-impressed so far.
The second half of the pulley needs to be CA'd on. It actually does state in the instruction manual to do this.
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Old 04-15-2007, 06:56 PM   #7961
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got my kit built that i got from stormerhobbies.com and followed the instructions. the dual one ways sort of have me baffled as to why?

anyone have any experience with different combos such as:

F diff, C locked, R diff

F solid, C oneway, R diff

F one way, C one way, R solid (saw this once on a RS4 nitro sedan)
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Old 04-15-2007, 07:38 PM   #7962
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bxpitbull
Damn str8. The guy jumps in my pm box and wants to trade shots. Man. It's all in jest to break the monotony. Some guys are so sensitive.
oo rah!!
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Old 04-15-2007, 07:50 PM   #7963
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mustangz
I sincerely apologize if this has been asked and answered, but my search on the thread resulted in 150+ posts.. I looked through as many as I could stand to.

Anyhow.. I Just purchased a standard Cyclone kit from Stormer Hobbies a week or so ago. And while assembling, the Front One-Way pulley doesn't look anything like the one in the manual, though it does seem to bolt on properly. And my main question:

The Front and Rear diff pulleys appear very strange to me. Are they suppose to have one 'side' that refuses to snap on or stay in place? Am I suppose to glue it on? And if so, why in the hell wouldn't they have just molded it as one piece? I'm very disappointed with the parts and instructions in this kit.
To be more detailed if necessary, the diff pulley appears to only have 1 sidewall to keep the belt from sliding off the pulley. The other 'side' looks like it should pressfit or snap into the pulley on the other side, to keep the belt from sliding off that side, but it doesn't stay on... very poor manufacturing and or instructions in this case.


Should I complain to HB? will they send me the correct parts quickly? Anyone have a clue what I'm talking about?


Just a bit upset, as I've 'heard' that this is a very good car and I am un-impressed so far.

Crazy as if you read the manual you would not have posted about this bad car.
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Old 04-15-2007, 07:53 PM   #7964
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcos.J
oo rah!!
Watching Alpha Company (3rd Recon) on the Military Channel now. They absolutely rock. Friggin 5'5 Marine takes on the 6' and huge Iraqi attached to their unit in wrestling...duffs him out! OO-God-Damn-RAH!
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Old 04-15-2007, 07:57 PM   #7965
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaz
The second half of the pulley needs to be CA'd on. It actually does state in the instruction manual to do this.
Actually, it doesn't. I read the manual Thoroughly.. and just looked it all over again. There is NO stating or implying that any diff pieces require any CA glue. The ONLY thing to that point in the manual that requires any CA is the sides of the chassis.

The manual must be very new, and my kit is quite old as far as versions go? It shows the one way as requiring 4 screws, when the part I got with the kit only has 3 screw holes. Also, if it would have included the One-way pulley that is shown in the manual, it wouldn't bolt onto the one-way with 3 holes. Not to mention that the ball-diff pulley shown in the manual has round holes instead of the square'ish holes in the diff pulleys I got in my kit.

Regardless, if these (what must be older parts) that I got in my kit should just be CA'd together, then no problem, I can do that. I'm just upset that I didn't either get the correct/newer parts or at least the right manual that should have come with my kit.

thanks for the tip.
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