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Old 04-12-2007, 11:01 PM   #7906
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kid TT-01
You want an easier way to remove the diffs, dude theres only like 4 screws to remove the diffs. And the cvd's are easy as to take out. Only thing i agree with is the belts, there a bi^%$ to take out.
err... you mean you can get enough of a gap to remove the whole diff after unscrewing just the 4 screws on the upper bulkhead? cause i find that i need to "unplug" one of the ball connectors that control the camber, plus remove one end of the shock from the shock tower from the same side, and then kinda "flip" the shock tower to the other side, in order to get enough leeway to remove the diff... perhaps you have a different method...

cvd's easy to take out? you need to "unplug" one of the ball connectors that control the camber, unscrew 2 screws from the hub, remove the hub from the castor block before you can extract the cvd... for sure, it's not "hard" to do per se, but i think it could have been designed to make the cvds just a little easier to extract...

again, just mho ...
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Old 04-12-2007, 11:18 PM   #7907
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some areas for improvement imho :

1) a re-designed motor mount that gives more "room" to position the motor. right now you're kinda restricted in terms of the spur and pinion sizes because with some combinations the spur and pinion can't get close enough (without modding or dremeling the mount). ...

2) an easier / faster way to remove the ball diff / spool / front one way.
what so hard removing 4 screws...tamiya and xrays are similar concept..

3) an easier / faster way to adjust the tension of the ball diff
what so hard about sticking a rod in the hole of the aluminum diff and turning the wheel to loosen or tighten?

4) an easier / faster way to remove the universals / cvds for maintenance
on any TC...they are all similar in design...

5) some options to allow the use of stick packs would be nice too (as with the Pro4). Pro level cars don't use stick packs....

6) last but not least, an easier way to change the belts without having to dismantle so many components!
on any TC...they are all similar in design...
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Old 04-12-2007, 11:23 PM   #7908
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackedOutREVO
i was at the track today for 4 hours! SOOOOOO FUN!!! OMFG!

but twards the end my car started getting a lil slippery, what do i tune to fix this?
new tires...
move the rear shocks 1 hole inward.
running the car today and race day will be completely different...
on race day the track is fully prepped and traction is very high...
during the week...SWR track is only blown...no traction sauce is applied... Friday's before race the day...the track is fully prepped for Sat. Racing.
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Old 04-13-2007, 12:00 AM   #7909
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F. Alonso
Pretty amazing timing on that one as only a three weeks ago I did the wiring and everything to put both my Spektrum Micro reciever and my AMB Personal Transponder on the battery side of the car, but in 6 cell configuration. I put the reciever in the same spot as you have your KO reciever, and I put the AMB Transponder just in front of the batteries, alongside the front tape slot. Has come together really well and I took some photos but I haven't had a chance to reduce the size and publish them on the net. I'll see if I can do that sooner rather then later.

The result though, is a perfectly balanced chassis left/right. This is including all the LRP Brushless gear with the fins for the heatsink pointing in the same direction as the chassis, so the cooling is a lot more efficient. You will see in the pics when I post them.
I got confused.
At the beginning of your post you mention that all electronics are opposite to the battery, at the left side of the chassis, same side as the motor as you are using a 6 cell configuration.
This makes perfect sence as with 6 cells the chassis is well balanced having all electronics on the left side (motor side) and the 6 cell pack on its own on the right side.

but
further on, you mention that you placed your receiver at the same place as I did, with the personal AMB in front of the cells.
Is this still with 6 cells or you changed to 5 cells?
If it is with 6 cells, it will be pretty tight to place the receiver on the battery side, as I have used the space of the 6th cell to place the receiver.

I am waiting to see your photos.
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Old 04-13-2007, 12:01 AM   #7910
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Schumacher
2-bad,

Do you have a picture of your Cyclone with Pro4 outdrive? I have some Pro4 diffs but they don't fit at all.
Yepp, you're right... there Cyclone halves not Pro 4 (could have sworn they were... )

Sorry....



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Old 04-13-2007, 12:29 AM   #7911
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point #2 - nothing's "hard" here per se... but see my earlier post above...

point # 3 - iirc there are some cars on the market that allow you to adjust the tension of the diff by just sticking, through a small opening, a hex screwdriver into the diff, without dismantling any part of the chassis... i think the sprint 2's ball diff? not too sure, but the designs that allow for it are there... whether it's a better design/gives better performance i don't know, but it's sure easier to adjust... if the cyclone can have a diff that provides that ease of tuning while keeping the same level of performance or better, why not?

would you prefer to :
a) pick up your car, stick a hex screwdriver and adjust the diff tension, then run your car straight away. diff tension's not right? just repeat.

b) pick up your car, dismantle some parts, adjust the diff tension, re-assemble some parts, then drive your car, and if the tension's not right, repeat these steps again.

EDIT : think i remember better about this now - on the sprint 2's ball diff, iirc you can stick a small shaft or hex screwdriver into one part of the ball diff, and then adjust the tension of the diff by holding the shaft/screwdriver stationary and then turning one of the wheels to tighten/loosen the diff. this can be done without dismantling any parts

point # 4 - yes they are similar, but can they be improved for easier maintenance?

point # 5 - can't argue with that!

point # 6 - see point # 4...

the topic on discussion here is what improvements would you want to see, and not whether the cyclone's features are similar to what's found in other pro cars, because the designs are gonna be similar but that doesn't mean things can't be improved upon...

hope i didn't step on too many toes here... i'll try to go back to lurking mode now

and oh, just like to add, designing a car that is faster/easier to maintain and adjust = more time and fun on the track!





Quote:
Originally Posted by rc-zombies
some areas for improvement imho :

1) a re-designed motor mount that gives more "room" to position the motor. right now you're kinda restricted in terms of the spur and pinion sizes because with some combinations the spur and pinion can't get close enough (without modding or dremeling the mount). ...

2) an easier / faster way to remove the ball diff / spool / front one way.
what so hard removing 4 screws...tamiya and xrays are similar concept..

3) an easier / faster way to adjust the tension of the ball diff
what so hard about sticking a rod in the hole of the aluminum diff and turning the wheel to loosen or tighten?

4) an easier / faster way to remove the universals / cvds for maintenance
on any TC...they are all similar in design...

5) some options to allow the use of stick packs would be nice too (as with the Pro4). Pro level cars don't use stick packs....

6) last but not least, an easier way to change the belts without having to dismantle so many components!
on any TC...they are all similar in design...

Last edited by sidewaysdriver6; 04-13-2007 at 01:11 AM.
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Old 04-13-2007, 01:09 AM   #7912
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I'm not quite sure you understand how you can adjust the tension of the ball diff on the cyclone. In the outdrives there is a small hole, which you line up with the slot on the screw head, and stick a rod of some sort in and you can then adjust the tension. No dismantling needed whatsoever, easy.
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Old 04-13-2007, 03:37 AM   #7913
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you are right! thanks for pointing that out to me . i had stopped using diffs completely quite early on with this car (i've been using 2 spools since then), and it wasn't something i realized it could do when i was still using diffs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Skill
I'm not quite sure you understand how you can adjust the tension of the ball diff on the cyclone. In the outdrives there is a small hole, which you line up with the slot on the screw head, and stick a rod of some sort in and you can then adjust the tension. No dismantling needed whatsoever, easy.
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Old 04-13-2007, 09:07 AM   #7914
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skill
I'm not quite sure you understand how you can adjust the tension of the ball diff on the cyclone. In the outdrives there is a small hole, which you line up with the slot on the screw head, and stick a rod of some sort in and you can then adjust the tension. No dismantling needed whatsoever, easy.
because right now the Corally Phi and MI3 the only unscrew 2 screw then can take out the whole diff and adjust belt tension. so they would think that HB should follow this concept.
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Old 04-13-2007, 09:14 AM   #7915
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Doucakis
I got confused.
At the beginning of your post you mention that all electronics are opposite to the battery, at the left side of the chassis, same side as the motor as you are using a 6 cell configuration.
This makes perfect sence as with 6 cells the chassis is well balanced having all electronics on the left side (motor side) and the 6 cell pack on its own on the right side.

but
further on, you mention that you placed your receiver at the same place as I did, with the personal AMB in front of the cells.
Is this still with 6 cells or you changed to 5 cells?
If it is with 6 cells, it will be pretty tight to place the receiver on the battery side, as I have used the space of the 6th cell to place the receiver.

I am waiting to see your photos.
Okay, sorry to confuse. On the Motor side of the chassis, I have the Motor, Servo and LRP Sphere Speedy. On the battery side of the car, I have the Spektrum Micro Reciever, and the AMB Transponder. I have found that ever since we have been running with brushless motors, etc, that the weight balance had been shifted to the motor side. So, to combat this (and to get more cooling to the Speed Controller), I have wired my electronics as explained.

Pictures will tell the true story... I will post them as soon as I can (going away this weekend so maybe in a few days). BTW - Love the photos and prep work you do on your cars mate, the best looking chassis going around!
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Old 04-13-2007, 09:17 AM   #7916
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rc-zombies
new tires...
move the rear shocks 1 hole inward.
running the car today and race day will be completely different...
on race day the track is fully prepped and traction is very high...
during the week...SWR track is only blown...no traction sauce is applied... Friday's before race the day...the track is fully prepped for Sat. Racing.

yeh i noteced that, my tired got very worn, and right when i can out of pit lane it was REALLY slippery, and in the super tight turns, all the rain washed almost all the traction

my shocks are already in the last holes.... and on frieday i guess there a bunch of ppl there? because race is tomrow a? i want to go, but having the whole track to myslef was nice
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Old 04-13-2007, 09:29 AM   #7917
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F. Alonso
Okay, sorry to confuse. On the Motor side of the chassis, I have the Motor, Servo and LRP Sphere Speedy. On the battery side of the car, I have the Spektrum Micro Reciever, and the AMB Transponder. I have found that ever since we have been running with brushless motors, etc, that the weight balance had been shifted to the motor side. So, to combat this (and to get more cooling to the Speed Controller), I have wired my electronics as explained.

Pictures will tell the true story... I will post them as soon as I can (going away this weekend so maybe in a few days). BTW - Love the photos and prep work you do on your cars mate, the best looking chassis going around!
i ran the same set up on my cyclone but i had the futaba 9550 servo and i only needed to add 1/2 ounce on the battery side to balance the car.
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Old 04-13-2007, 11:09 AM   #7918
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is this heat sink, fan any good?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXNDP3&P=7

in my price range, and if it works i want it, motor runs kinda hot during practice because i drive so long, so a cooler running motor can never hurt lol

or anything in that price? no more then like 40 bucks, but im open to all that is out there
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Old 04-13-2007, 11:17 AM   #7919
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oh btw what i wrote 'bout point # 3 is moot since Skill pointed out to me the correct way to adjust the tension on the diff lol

Quote:
Originally Posted by sidewaysdriver6
point #2 - nothing's "hard" here per se... but see my earlier post above...

point # 3 - iirc there are some cars on the market that allow you to adjust the tension of the diff by just sticking, through a small opening, a hex screwdriver into the diff, without dismantling any part of the chassis... i think the sprint 2's ball diff? not too sure, but the designs that allow for it are there... whether it's a better design/gives better performance i don't know, but it's sure easier to adjust... if the cyclone can have a diff that provides that ease of tuning while keeping the same level of performance or better, why not?

would you prefer to :
a) pick up your car, stick a hex screwdriver and adjust the diff tension, then run your car straight away. diff tension's not right? just repeat.

b) pick up your car, dismantle some parts, adjust the diff tension, re-assemble some parts, then drive your car, and if the tension's not right, repeat these steps again.

EDIT : think i remember better about this now - on the sprint 2's ball diff, iirc you can stick a small shaft or hex screwdriver into one part of the ball diff, and then adjust the tension of the diff by holding the shaft/screwdriver stationary and then turning one of the wheels to tighten/loosen the diff. this can be done without dismantling any parts

point # 4 - yes they are similar, but can they be improved for easier maintenance?

point # 5 - can't argue with that!

point # 6 - see point # 4...

the topic on discussion here is what improvements would you want to see, and not whether the cyclone's features are similar to what's found in other pro cars, because the designs are gonna be similar but that doesn't mean things can't be improved upon...

hope i didn't step on too many toes here... i'll try to go back to lurking mode now

and oh, just like to add, designing a car that is faster/easier to maintain and adjust = more time and fun on the track!
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Old 04-13-2007, 11:21 AM   #7920
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btw i know 3racing has some similar designs, you can check them out too :
3racing heatsinks

never used these so can't comment on their performance.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackedOutREVO
is this heat sink, fan any good?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXNDP3&P=7

in my price range, and if it works i want it, motor runs kinda hot during practice because i drive so long, so a cooler running motor can never hurt lol

or anything in that price? no more then like 40 bucks, but im open to all that is out there
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