Hot Bodies Cyclone
03-26-2007, 03:35 PM
#7756
Originally Posted by rc-zombies
I agree with Essnowyt..
just get the Moorespeed version and save yourself some headaches and possible some $$$ in the long run.
I've purchase after market parts and most of them use inferior aluminum... and they break... even the big names like Square..I've had parts break.
just get the Moorespeed version and save yourself some headaches and possible some $$$ in the long run.
I've purchase after market parts and most of them use inferior aluminum... and they break... even the big names like Square..I've had parts break.
i aggree, but one thing with the moore speed imo is get the version 2 shafts and steel bones, there alot better
03-26-2007, 04:17 PM
#7758
Originally Posted by PoLsKiE
do the cyclone a-arms and hubs fit the pro4 or any parts switch over between the two?
daveaustin5: yeah, i agree with them just get the moorespeed you won't regret it.
03-26-2007, 08:05 PM
#7759
Tech Initiate
my experience with aftermarket (3rd party vendor) rc parts in general : the quality tends to be inferior to the original, the fit is not as good, although they may look better than the original and be cheaper.
certainly there are exceptions to the rule, but personally i think getting the moorespeed instead of a cyclone s with 3racing parts will definitely be a better choice, as others here have mentioned.
if you do go for the latter option however, looking at the list of 3racing parts you quoted, i don't think it makes sense to even buy the cyclone s kit since you'll be replacing what probably adds up to 90%+(?) of the kit - just get the remaining hotbodies parts separate and it will be cheaper that way.
though the moorespeed is the way to go!
certainly there are exceptions to the rule, but personally i think getting the moorespeed instead of a cyclone s with 3racing parts will definitely be a better choice, as others here have mentioned.
if you do go for the latter option however, looking at the list of 3racing parts you quoted, i don't think it makes sense to even buy the cyclone s kit since you'll be replacing what probably adds up to 90%+(?) of the kit - just get the remaining hotbodies parts separate and it will be cheaper that way.
though the moorespeed is the way to go!
03-27-2007, 02:30 AM
#7760
Order Moore Speed !
03-28-2007, 02:29 PM
#7761
in a mess
hi guys just got back from the track and i have been using a one-way indoors for 4-5 months now but we are going outside shortly and i have a big race in 2 weeks 
i was wondering whether to run a one-way outdoors (tight techincal track with 2 long straights) as i love them and i hate spools as i always get chatter even when i turn down my radio and check the driveshafts it dosent suit my driving style .also i cant use a diff as there too slow. the only problem is no one runs a oneway at the track only a diff or spool?.any help would be appricated thanks stephen 
03-28-2007, 02:32 PM
#7762
Originally Posted by stephen hilton
hi guys just got back from the track and i have been using a one-way indoors for 4-5 months now but we are going outside shortly and i have a big race in 2 weeks i was wondering whether to run a one-way outdoors (tight techincal track with 2 long straights) as i love them and i hate spools as i always get chatter even when i turn down my radio and check the driveshafts it dosent suit my driving style .also i cant use a diff as there too slow. the only problem is no one runs a oneway at the track only a diff or spool.any help would be appricated thanks stephen If you can't use a diff and hate spools, that pretty much leaves you stuck with a oneway regardless right?
03-28-2007, 02:43 PM
#7763
yerp but the fast guys use spool and love them? and with a one-way its a bit mad in the corners. does anyone else use a spool and get chatter? also iam running stock so with a spool do you need to brake with 27 t?????????
thanks stephen
also iam running stock so with a spool do you need to brake with 27 t?????????thanks stephen
03-28-2007, 02:47 PM
#7764
hey stephen,
you wont need brakes in stock.i actually use roll throttle when i do run stock.all of the cars chatter with a spool when you turn the wheel to lock.you dont need that much steering.adjust the push out of the car and you will find the car to be really smoothe in the corners.a spool is the way to go buddy.once you get the car the way you like it you will never run a one way.
you wont need brakes in stock.i actually use roll throttle when i do run stock.all of the cars chatter with a spool when you turn the wheel to lock.you dont need that much steering.adjust the push out of the car and you will find the car to be really smoothe in the corners.a spool is the way to go buddy.once you get the car the way you like it you will never run a one way.
03-28-2007, 03:00 PM
#7767
Originally Posted by protc3
it will still chatter on the ground if you turn the wheels to extreme angles.as the cvd's break in it is less noticable.key is to get the car to turn without oversteer. 
and grease in them helps A TON!!! i figured that one out lol, after everyone told me that it helped soo much, but the chatter still did bother me also, why do they chatter in the air, theres no strian on them, and they would spin at the same speed as a diff so???
03-28-2007, 03:06 PM
#7768
the cvd's do not rotate smoothly at full lock because they are not true cvd's.there is only 1 cross pin and there is limited movement.when your wheels are at full lock,so is the axle and cvd.when they are at full lock,every point during the rotation the the pin crosses the inside angle of the cvd,it deflects a slight bit and this is what the chatter is.if you keep it from fully locking,there will be no deflection.you just need to keep it from reaching its locking point
03-28-2007, 03:12 PM
#7769
Originally Posted by protc3
the cvd's do not rotate smoothly at full lock because they are not true cvd's.there is only 1 cross pin and there is limited movement.when your wheels are at full lock,so is the axle and cvd.when they are at full lock,every point during the rotation the the pin crosses the inside angle of the cvd,it deflects a slight bit and this is what the chatter is.if you keep it from fully locking,there will be no deflection.you just need to keep it from reaching its locking point
so thats why grease helps then... hmmm thanks for the info man!
03-28-2007, 03:58 PM
#7770
The Losi "LCD" is the only one I know of that is a true CVD (there maybe more) and does not vibrate at it's extreme endpoints. But the most important point is not having the "most steering throw" in your car, but (as Protc3 said) getting the steering out of minimal steering throw (greater corner speed and reduce tire wear). 
So just ignore the vibration at the endpoints cos you should not be setting your car up with this much reach in the first place.
So just ignore the vibration at the endpoints cos you should not be setting your car up with this much reach in the first place.