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Old 03-19-2007, 08:43 AM   #7681
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hpiaustin
i purchased a new cyclone, what springs are you guys using

corally or the xray springs

thanks
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Old 03-19-2007, 09:02 AM   #7682
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Originally Posted by BlackedOutREVO
so there is not one drive shaft to help me out? thats kinda jacked up.. i got like 3 runs in and blew it! man thats really no good

I think his point was just that you're bound to bend/break drive shafts if you keep hitting the boards. The only way to assure they don't break is to not hit anything. Certain shafts are definitely stronger than others though...
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Old 03-19-2007, 03:46 PM   #7683
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hpiaustin
i purchased a new cyclone, what springs are you guys using

corally or the xray springs

thanks
the only springs to use are hotbodies (hpi) or hara springs i wouldn't bother with anything else for the main reason these are consistant and the same length
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Old 03-19-2007, 07:25 PM   #7684
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaz
I think his point was just that you're bound to bend/break drive shafts if you keep hitting the boards. The only way to assure they don't break is to not hit anything. Certain shafts are definitely stronger than others though...

i havent even takin it to a track yet! im running on dusty as heck tar...... in open road, havent hit one thing

when i turn the car start to really shake and make a loud noise.. only in the front, is this spool chatter, or is something built wrong?
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Old 03-19-2007, 07:35 PM   #7685
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Sounds like you had full EPA. When you turned the wheel the tire locked on the shock. You need to turn down your EPA on your radio.
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Old 03-19-2007, 07:55 PM   #7686
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dodgeguy
Sounds like you had full EPA. When you turned the wheel the tire locked on the shock. You need to turn down your EPA on your radio.

yeh, but full crank and me turning the wheels with no motor on spins just as free, then with a motor giving power to them it does this, would this be why im breaking the shafts? around the pin hole where the pin for the axel goes into the shaft
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Old 03-19-2007, 08:51 PM   #7687
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackedOutREVO
yeh, but full crank and me turning the wheels with no motor on spins just as free, then with a motor giving power to them it does this, would this be why im breaking the shafts? around the pin hole where the pin for the axel goes into the shaft
YES!!!!

Turn your endpoints down... my car is around 18degs deflection from centre. This should be appeal steering for anyone with a half decent set-up.
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Old 03-19-2007, 08:53 PM   #7688
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2-Bad
YES!!!!

Turn your endpoints down... my car is around 18degs deflection from centre. This should be appeal steering for anyone with a half decent set-up.
Yeah, definitely crank the EPAs down. Should help you a lot.
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Old 03-19-2007, 08:57 PM   #7689
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ok i will! thanks a ton guys!!!! just saved me a ton of money lol
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Old 03-19-2007, 09:03 PM   #7690
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Default Fitting 4200's

Hey guys, I have an original chassis Cyclone and 4200's dont seem to fit very well. Is there another chassis out with larger battery slots or should I just get out my file? Thanks for your help!!
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Old 03-19-2007, 09:07 PM   #7691
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpeedySST
Hey guys, I have an original chassis Cyclone and 4200's dont seem to fit very well. Is there another chassis out with larger battery slots or should I just get out my file? Thanks for your help!!
File down the battery slots. You should do this anyway so that the sharp corners don't damage your cells. If I'm not mistaken, the Cyclone manual even instructs you to file them down.
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Old 03-19-2007, 09:08 PM   #7692
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Oh, and don't forget to seal the battery slots with CA after you file them down. Don't want to short your batteries on the chassis.
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Old 03-19-2007, 09:10 PM   #7693
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Thanks for the info. Getting the file out...
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Old 03-19-2007, 09:36 PM   #7694
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackedOutREVO
so there is not one drive shaft to help me out? thats kinda jacked up.. i got like 3 runs in and blew it! man thats really no good
from the durability standpoint you may want to consider using the ver.2 universal drive shaft set instead of the mip cvds, but with the steel shafts (P/N #61398). that's what i use, they work very well, and definitely last longer than the ver.2 aluminum shafts or the aluminum shafts on the mip cvds .

i use a spool in front, no chatter problems after i put a bit of aw grease in the cups of the wheel axles (i.e. where the shafts "join" to the wheel axles). as mentioned above adjusting your epa will help.
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Old 03-19-2007, 10:13 PM   #7695
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are those on tower hobbies???? i cant find them anywhere....... sorry lol

and what grease???? white, black, or that lil tube???

thanks!
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