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Old 03-11-2007, 07:34 AM   #7576
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dawgmeat
The past 2 weekend I've busted about 5 steerings blocks...... it's just driving me nutz because I went about 3 months without breaking anything, I remeber someone saying the T2 castor blocks & steering arms fit the cyclone well I gave it the ole' college try and they work but since I had to use Team Tamale I had to remove 2mm from the steering to keep the ackerman the same just out the pics
looks good Sterling!!!
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Old 03-11-2007, 08:24 AM   #7577
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Originally Posted by Marcos.J
looks good Sterling!!!

3 more things
1.You do Xray steering bushing Part #302291
2. .75mm shim to go between the castor block and A-arms
3. It's Starling not Sterling
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Old 03-11-2007, 08:25 AM   #7578
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Originally Posted by dawgmeat
3 more things
1.You do Xray steering bushing Part #302291
2. .75mm shim to go between the castor block and A-arms
3. It's Staling not Sterling
my bad must be the Florida sun
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Old 03-11-2007, 08:26 AM   #7579
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no its not,its sterling. hurry up and get down here sucka
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Old 03-11-2007, 08:30 AM   #7580
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no its not,its sterling. hurry up and get down here sucka
Oh well I guess that's my new name Sterling
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Old 03-11-2007, 08:31 AM   #7581
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Oh well I guess that's my new name Sterling
guess so
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Old 03-11-2007, 10:58 AM   #7582
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well i not broken any hubs yets, I just want to get some normal ones
just in case I brake them, I know the old style dont fit very well, but the style dose not cause the streeing to bind
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Old 03-11-2007, 11:02 AM   #7583
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well i not broken any hubs yets, I just want to get some normal ones
just in case I brake them, I know the old style dont fit very well, but the style dose not cause the streeing to bind
Depend how you drive I have not broken a diff screw yet
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Old 03-11-2007, 11:06 AM   #7584
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Depend how you drive I have not broken a diff screw yet
well now you better get one just incase
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Old 03-11-2007, 11:49 AM   #7585
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well now you better get one just incase
thanks for jinxin' me
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Old 03-11-2007, 12:35 PM   #7586
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thanks for jinxin' me
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Old 03-11-2007, 02:16 PM   #7587
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dawgmeat
The past 2 weekend I've busted about 5 steerings blocks...... it's just driving me nutz because I went about 3 months without breaking anything, I remeber someone saying the T2 castor blocks & steering arms fit the cyclone well I gave it the ole' college try and they work but since I had to use Team Tamale I had to remove 2mm from the steering to keep the ackerman the same just out the pics
I use the composite t2 spindles and they work great. It helps they are sold individually so you dont have a bunch of spare rear hubs like the hb stuff.
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Old 03-11-2007, 03:45 PM   #7588
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sidewaysdriver6
here's a list of the items you'd need to get :

1) P/N 73512 (hpi pro 4 stick pack holder), qty : 1 set
(this is a set of various parts, each marked with numbers. you'll only need the parts marked 4 (2pcs), 6(1pc), 7(2pcs) and 8(1pc) from this set. i'll refer to these as 73512-4, 73512-6, 73512-7 and 73512-8 respectively)

2) P/N Z082 (flat head screw m3 x 8mm), qty : 2

3) P/N Z352 (button head screw m3 x 8mm), qty : 4

4) P/N Z224 (washer m3 x 6mm), qty : 4

5) P/N Z305 (screw post m3 x 8mm), qty : 2

pics :

underside view


top view


top with battery clip view


steps :
1) cut out P/N 73512-7 (2pcs) from the set. dremel/file away the little "tooth" at the bottom of this part, so that it can sit flat.

2) attach the 2 pcs of P/N 73512-7 to the chassis, using P/N Z082 screws and using the existing unused holes along the centre line of the chassis, as in positions as shown in the "top view" pic.

Impt note : note the direction of the P/N 73512-7. this is the opposite way of how it's mounted on pro 4. this is to prevent the stick pack of getting in the way of the pinion and spur gear on the cyclone.

3) cut out P/N 73512-8 from the set.

4) put your stick pack on the chassis, and push the left side of the stick pack flush against the 2 pcs of P/N 73512-7 installed in step 2.

now place P/N 73512-8 flush against the right side of the stick pack, in the position as shown in the "top view" pic. mark out on the chassis the location of the 2 holes for mounting P/N 73512-8. the 2 holes must be located at a safe distance away from the side-by-side battery slots of the chassis.

5) remove the stick pack, remove P/N 73512-8, and drill the 2 holes marked out in step 4, using a 3mm diameter drill bit. make sure the bit is the type for drilling metal and is sharp (use a new drill bit if you can).

you'll need to clamp down/secure the chassis properly when drilling, to prevent any warpage of the chassis. i also use a vacuum and point it towards the drilling to suck away the cf dust.

along each hole (which will be very close to the side edge of the chassis), parallel to the battery slots, i use a needle file to file a slot from the side edge of the chassis, inwards towards the hole. this creates a "u-shaped" notch along the side edge of the chassis. this is to ease the positioning and mounting of P/N 73512-8 later on.

if you use CA glue to seal the edges of the cf chassis you'll probably want to seal these 2 notches too.

i'm not sure if the description of the notches make it hard to visualize, but i hope you can make out the 2 notches in the "underside view" pic above.

6) place the left side of the stick pack flush against the 2 pcs of P/N 73512-7, and then adjust and mount P/N 73512-8 using the P/N Z352 screws and P/N Z224 washers, as in the "underside view".

7) Cut out P/N 73512-6 and the 2 pcs of P/N 73512-4 from the set. dremel/file away the little "tooth" at the bottom of P/N 73512-4. screw in P/N Z305 screw posts into the 2pcs of P/N 73512-4, and then mount the 2 pcs of P/N 73512-4 onto the chassis using the existing slots in the chassis, and using P/N Z352 screws and P/N Z224 washers. with a stick pack on the chassis, adjust the positions of P/N 73512-4 until they hold P/N 73512-6 well, and then tighten the 2 pcs of P/N 73512-4 into location.

at the end of this you should see what you see in the "top view with battery clip" pic.

that's it! the above instructions may seem like quite a lot of work but it's actually a pretty simple straight-forward change. main thing is to be careful with the drilling. the disadvantage is that there will be 4 button head screws on the bottom of the chassis. but i have my ride height set pretty high and run on pretty smooth concrete ground so this isn't an issue for me. if you have access to machining equipment that can make accurate countersunk holes into a cf chassis that would be a great way to solve that.

anyway hth and good luck ! if you have any questions just post back.
that looks all good but why didn't you use counter sink scews most indoor clubs in the uk would not let you race with those screws hanging out.
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Old 03-11-2007, 03:47 PM   #7589
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yeah, counter sink it and use flat heads and that will look real nice. I used some of the xray stuff on mine, made a g10 strap and used xxx4 battery posts.
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Old 03-11-2007, 08:10 PM   #7590
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Greetings all,

What are the differences between the regular cyclone and the new Andy Moore edition?
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