Hot Bodies Cyclone

[RaceAce701]

thats normal its the axled just take some dual rate out

[wannabee]

NEW Cyclone specific bumper:

Please feel free to PM me, I can ship some out until Pdub gets em in stock.

[benoitrdv]

Originally Posted by wannabee

NEW Cyclone specific bumper:

Please feel free to PM me, I can ship some out until Pdub gets em in stock.

Hello is it possible to make it smaller or at least less large?

[dstyles]

does it affect the sway bar attachments?

[protc3]

Originally Posted by wannabee

BMI carpet guys, are you running the F/R stand-offs??

i tried it both ways with and without at the snowbirds.the traction was really high and to be honest with you,i thought the car was a little easier to drive with them in.larry and schreffler had good results without them.i guess its something you will need to try

[jaz]

Originally Posted by dstyles

does it affect the sway bar attachments?

Very good point. It looks like it would interfere with the swaybar.

[RMF-888]

what is the advantage of low friction belt to the regular belt?

[wannabee]

Originally Posted by dstyles

does it affect the sway bar attachments?

I tried to make these as "generic" as possible and might need a quick hit with the dremel to fit over the swaybar mounts no biggie..

[dstyles]

sounds good to me

[Droopz]

Hey all. I just ordered a Cyclone (non Alan Moore Ed.) from Stormer and had a few (very) basic questions I hope you guys can help me with.

- Firstly, have anyone of you guys had any success in setting up your HB's for drifting?

- I might be completely wrong, but somewhere I read that Hot Bodies were somehow affiliated with HPI Is this really the case?

- Does the Cyclone support the use of 'standard' long battery packs at all?

- What else do I need to know to preparer myself for running the cyclone?

[Geetoo]

Originally Posted by RMF-888

what is the advantage of low friction belt to the regular belt?

It should have better drivetrain rotation with less friction i suppose.

[sidewaysdriver6]

Originally Posted by Droopz

Hey all. I just ordered a Cyclone (non Alan Moore Ed.) from Stormer and had a few (very) basic questions I hope you guys can help me with.

- Firstly, have anyone of you guys had any success in setting up your HB's for drifting?

- I might be completely wrong, but somewhere I read that Hot Bodies were somehow affiliated with HPI Is this really the case?

- Does the Cyclone support the use of 'standard' long battery packs at all?

- What else do I need to know to preparer myself for running the cyclone?

i have my cyclone set up for drifting, it works very well, you can take a look at my setup here :
cyclone drifting setup

oh if you don't have an account on that forum you may not be able to see the post, but anyway here's the setup i used :

Setup for Cyclone (Standard/Surikarn/Hara Editions) :

Ground Types
Ground Type 1 : Unsheltered MSCP Concrete Ground (e.g. Serangoon MSCP Top Level, Simei MSCP Top Level etc.)
Ground Type 2 : Sheltered MSCP Concrete Ground & Void Deck (e.g. Bukit Batok MSCP, Serangoon & Simei MSCP 2nd Level etc.)

Electronics
Transmitter : Nomadio React
Receiver : Nomadio V2 Transceiver
Servo : Futaba S3050 Digital (High-Torque) Servo
ESC : Futaba MC330CR

Steering EPA - Left : 82%
Steering EPA - Right : 82%
Steering Dual Rate : 83%
Steering Exponential : -27%

Throttle EPA : 100%
Throttle Exponential : -10%

Brake EPA : 80%
Brake Exponential : -10%

Car (Cyclone) Front
Toe-out : Approx. 1.5 degrees (Pivot Block : 1.5 degrees)
Camber : 0 degrees
Castor : Stock
Ride Height : approx. 8.5-9.0mm (with battery on car)
Droop : 2mm
Ackerman : Stock
Shocks : Stock
Shock Mount Position - Top : 4th hole counting from centre of chassis
Shock Mount Position - Bottom : 1st hole counting from centre of chassis
Shock Springs : Yellow
Shock - Adjustable Gap : 7.5mm
Shock - Oil Weight : 0 (No Oil) (Just put a little shock oil around the O-ring where the metal shaft passes through in the shock)
Belt Tension : Groove on bearing holder faces the front
Version 3 Solid Axle
Universal Drive Shaft Set - use the steel dogbones, they're much more durable than the aluminum ones

Rear
Toe-out : 0 degrees
Camber : 0 degrees
Castor : Stock
Ride Height : approx. 8.5-9.0mm (with battery on car)
Droop : 2mm
Shocks : Stock
Shock Mount Position - Top : 2nd hole counting from centre of chassis
Shock Mount Position - Bottom : 2nd hole counting from centre of chassis
Shock Springs : Blue
Shock - Adjustable Gap : 5mm for Ground Type 1; 4mm for Ground Type 2
Shock - Oil Weight : 0 (No Oil) (Just put a little shock oil around the O-ring where the metal shaft passes through in the shock)
Belt Tension : Groove on bearing holder faces the back
Version 3 Solid Axle, with Non-universal regular steel dogbones and wheel axles

Wheels : PVC, with SGDrifters brand rims

Motor : Tamiya Super Stock TZ

Gearing : 96T Spur (Stock) and 40T Pinion : Gear Ratio is (96/40)x2.4375 = 5.85:1

Remarks :
NA

(note that this setup is using pvc tyres, running on reasonably smooth concrete ground)

the cyclone in the standard config only supports side by side battery packs. but i have modified the chassis a little to use stick packs (using the pro4 stick pack holders :


if you want i can post some closeup pics of what i did to have the stick pack there. it's pretty simple change.

[Droopz]

Yes please. I have heaps of stick packs that I really want to use on the Cyclone. Thanks for the setup guide too.

[MARKANO]

Differences between the following bodies??

1. Ride Accord B
2. Ride Stratus 3
3. Moore Mazda
4. Moore Stratus

[omoser]

Differences between the following bodies??

IMHO the bodies have the following characteristics:

1. Ride Accord B

My favourite body. Lots of downforce both front and rear, easy to drive, high speed stability is ok. Use it on carpet and small/medium outdoor tracks. Also has an imprint so it's legal for use in races (depends on your rules).

2. Ride Stratus 3

If you are referring to MK3, it's good for large floating tracks. Tons of rear downforce, less steering than Accord. AFAIK no imprint.

3. Moore Mazda

Lots of steering, pretty aggressive body. Don't like it that much, go with the protoform Mazda's instead. I use it only at LRP/HPI challenge races.

4. Moore Stratus

Never tried this one, but according to some drivers at my club, easy to handle body with less downforce than Moorespeed Mazda. Good for large, floating tracks.

HTH