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Old 02-12-2007, 12:29 PM   #7096
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Old 02-12-2007, 12:32 PM   #7097
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stephen hilton
i have found that the wider pullys on the diffs make your diff smoother and it stays smooth for ages
Does the wider pulley use the same size diff balls?
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Old 02-12-2007, 01:09 PM   #7098
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Double post
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Old 02-12-2007, 01:09 PM   #7099
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Yer diff balls are the same size, the difference is the holes are square in the wide pulleys and the balls 'click' into place. This seems to make the diff better all round.
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Old 02-12-2007, 01:16 PM   #7100
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I made a "small" modification on the original Cyclone diff:



Now it's extremely smooth and reliable. I have run it with an LRP Vector X11 5.5T Brushless motor hopped up with a sintered rotor (approx. 450 watts) for a whole day, and the diff was just as smooth at the end of the day as it was in the morning.
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Old 02-12-2007, 01:21 PM   #7101
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what parts are those? xray parts? DId you tap the male half of the diff or what? Let me know I was thinking about trying that for a while now
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Old 02-12-2007, 01:24 PM   #7102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mhejjas
I made a "small" modification on the original Cyclone diff:



Now it's extremely smooth and reliable. I have run it with an LRP Vector X11 5.5T Brushless motor hopped up with a sintered rotor (approx. 450 watts) for a whole day, and the diff was just as smooth at the end of the day as it was in the morning.
cool!
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Old 02-12-2007, 01:47 PM   #7103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcos.J
SEMPER FI
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Old 02-12-2007, 01:52 PM   #7104
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I used the following parts:
- Corally ceramic thrust bearing (compatible with xray)
- Xray diff screw
- Xray diff pressure plates
- Xray secure ring

Modifications:
- Long outdrive: the 8mm diameter hole machined up to 15 mm depth, a 8.6mm diameter and .8mm thick groove is machined starting at 2.5mm depth.
- Short outdrive: M3 thread is made in the center hole. I've manually crafted a nylon nut to fit tightly from the outside (I used a nylon nut from a Protoform body set)
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Old 02-12-2007, 01:56 PM   #7105
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There was somebody on here a couple months ago that was going to try the 3Racing battery strap with the cyclone chassis. Whoever it was, did you have any luck with it?
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Old 02-12-2007, 02:03 PM   #7106
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Corally bearing COR79164

http://www.corallyusa.com/
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Old 02-12-2007, 02:22 PM   #7107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaz
There was somebody on here a couple months ago that was going to try the 3Racing battery strap with the cyclone chassis. Whoever it was, did you have any luck with it?
did not fit properly
but I'm still working on modifying it to make it work..
with some miner mods..works well with the pro4 chassis.
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Old 02-12-2007, 02:29 PM   #7108
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i run tamiya diif bolt it needs cutting to length but never had any probs with this the car is perfect

the original pre production cyclone of haras had vertical ball stud on the stearing if it worked how they wanted it to im sure they would have kept that design.
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Old 02-12-2007, 02:42 PM   #7109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rc-zombies
did not fit properly
but I'm still working on modifying it to make it work..
with some miner mods..works well with the pro4 chassis.
When the TC5 comes out I would check out that battery hold in setup. It appears that the posts the strap rides in are keyed to the tape holes.
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Old 02-12-2007, 03:52 PM   #7110
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Stormer has the regular black cyclone listed for $199. Does anybody know if this is a typo or their actual price?
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