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Old 02-07-2007, 12:13 AM   #7021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew_Carter
I pitted and worked with the Hb team all weekend,and ran the same setup as Andy,car worked really well!

But carnt go giving all the secrets away
So are the 1.5mm shims correct under the blocks and the oils that are at the top of the pic's
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Old 02-07-2007, 12:23 AM   #7022
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elliott Harper
We use the carbon middle deck indoors as it has different flex characteristics to the alloy one.
OK, thanks for that... but what about the CVD's...
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Old 02-07-2007, 01:50 AM   #7023
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The Ver 2 CVDs have different characteristics over the MIP CVDs in regards the traction which is why Andy and Team HB use them on the rear of the car. The benefits of traction are lost on the front though because of the excess chatter that the Ver 2 CVDs have over the new MIP CVDs.

My suggestion to everyone would be to keep 1 set of MIP CVDs to use as a spare for your fronts, and use the Ver 2 CVDs so you can optimize your pace.
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Old 02-07-2007, 08:35 AM   #7024
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quick question regarding the layshaft.

do you guys use any shims in it to center the pulleys more?
how much side to side play should there be in the layshaft when the pullys and spur are on?
how do you guys set yours up?
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Old 02-07-2007, 12:47 PM   #7025
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Default spring nut

hi guys, do you know what your steering spring nut is set to as in the maual it says 1.5 what happens if i make it bigger?
thanks t.k
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Old 02-07-2007, 01:22 PM   #7026
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stephen hilton
hi guys, do you know what your steering spring nut is set to as in the maual it says 1.5 what happens if i make it bigger?
thanks t.k
It'll brake on you faster.

Set it to 1mm
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Old 02-07-2007, 01:22 PM   #7027
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Chris,

Put everything on the layshaft but don't fully tighten the grub screws, just have it so the pulleys and spur can slide on the flat spots. Then put the layshaft in as you would run it but without the belts on. If your running a 1way pulley then use the spur mount to push it over to the left and tighten the grub screw. Then move the fixed pulley to the right and tighten the grub screw, ensuring you leave a very small ammount of play. Its also best to have the layshaft as central as possible.

Stephen,

Tighten the servo saver down to the ammount stated in the manual, any more and the assembley will be under too much stress and as a result could break in an accident.

Hope this helps,

Phil.
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Old 02-07-2007, 01:25 PM   #7028
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If you break your servo saver and do not have a spare try this:

Assuming you have some pro4 parts...

Take your broken servo saver and put the long plastic steering spacer from a pro4 up into the servo saver aluminum piece. Remove the servo saver spring and run the saver nut up and tighten it down good. Take a second nut and run it up to back the first nut.

You wont have a servo saver, but you will still be able to race. I guess you could do this and use a saver on the servo itself.
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Old 02-07-2007, 01:29 PM   #7029
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cheers guys
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Old 02-07-2007, 01:56 PM   #7030
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stephen hilton
cheers guys
Steve.. bout time you change that avatar isn't it????
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Old 02-07-2007, 02:00 PM   #7031
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris_blakey
do you guys use any shims in it to center the pulleys more?
I use shims to take out the space between the pulley's... (1.5mm x 4mm shims - I think ), but this still should provide a little end-float.
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Old 02-09-2007, 08:12 AM   #7032
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anybody have the new blank Moore WCE setup sheet? or a link to it...?

will try to make a editable version.

http://www.hpiracing.co.jp/contents/...ndy070121C.pdf
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Old 02-09-2007, 08:15 AM   #7033
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I use shims on my layshaft as well.


Anyone tried using the WCE spool drive cups on a TIR spool center section?
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Old 02-10-2007, 01:15 AM   #7034
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tez
Can anyone tell me how changing the front toe blocks from 1.5 to 2.5 will change the way the car handles??

Thanks.
I think it might increase initial steer before corners.
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Old 02-10-2007, 01:47 AM   #7035
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Thanks.
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