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Old 02-05-2007, 08:06 PM   #7006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2-Bad
Geee, very similar to the "SETUP" I posted earlier, what a coincidence ....
(Not having a dig at you Marcos...., just doing some stirring)
actually i had that set up done in november 2006 from my buddy jason
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Old 02-06-2007, 12:32 AM   #7007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AngryAsian
Raising the roll centres makes the tires work harder to generate more grip. Instead of the chassis allowing itself to roll deeper into the corner, the chassis effectively "stands" on the suspension to generate grip..

You only raise the block up on low traction surfaces where you're looking for grip. On a high traction surface like carpet, keep the blocks low..
correct me if i am wrong but i thought that if you lowered the block or raised the link you raised the roll centre and got more grip
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Old 02-06-2007, 01:39 AM   #7008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aid1970
correct me if i am wrong but i thought that if you lowered the block or raised the link you raised the roll centre and got more grip
Lowering the block or raising the inside of the camber link is moving those two inboard pivot points further apart which is LOWERING your roll centre, which gives more grip & more roll (you are increasing the roll moment by lowering the roll centre hence more roll).

They run no shims under the lower mounts on carpet generally because they use tiny foam tyres and if you don't lower the lower mounts you end up with the arms at a funky angle because of the small tyres
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Old 02-06-2007, 01:39 AM   #7009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aid1970
correct me if i am wrong but i thought that if you lowered the block or raised the link you raised the roll centre and got more grip
Yes same for me
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Old 02-06-2007, 02:19 AM   #7010
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As far as I know...

Lowering the block lowers the roll centre... Check your manual!!
Or rather - the Xray tuning guide or the old pro4 manual..

The reasons:

A low roll centre is "low" because it's further away from the car's CG. A "high" roll centre is closer to the cg. Imagine a car with such a high roll centre that it passes from the cg. then the car would not even roll through a corner because the links aren't acting on the car vertically. Only laterally through the CG.

Low roll centres - the suspension forces actually cause the chassis to roll down. The rolling moment means an effective reduction on the force pushing the tire down onto the ground.

Grip = tire adhesion * weight. More weight, more grip.

A high roll centre means the suspension, instead of having a moment that rolls the chassis, resists the rolling moment. Why? The rolling moment is smaller and passes closer through the CG.
This resistance means more weight is transferred ONTO the tire. More weight = more grip.

make sense?
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Old 02-06-2007, 08:13 AM   #7011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AngryAsian
As far as I know...

Lowering the block lowers the roll centre... Check your manual!!
Or rather - the Xray tuning guide or the old pro4 manual..

The reasons:

A low roll centre is "low" because it's further away from the car's CG. A "high" roll centre is closer to the cg. Imagine a car with such a high roll centre that it passes from the cg. then the car would not even roll through a corner because the links aren't acting on the car vertically. Only laterally through the CG.

Low roll centres - the suspension forces actually cause the chassis to roll down. The rolling moment means an effective reduction on the force pushing the tire down onto the ground.

Grip = tire adhesion * weight. More weight, more grip.

A high roll centre means the suspension, instead of having a moment that rolls the chassis, resists the rolling moment. Why? The rolling moment is smaller and passes closer through the CG.
This resistance means more weight is transferred ONTO the tire. More weight = more grip.

make sense?


....nope. I think you have it backwards.
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Old 02-06-2007, 10:36 AM   #7012
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Can anyone tell me how changing the front toe blocks from 1.5 to 2.5 will change the way the car handles??

Thanks.
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Old 02-06-2007, 01:31 PM   #7013
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Andy Moore's car from www.carpetwars.co.uk

Spur gear was 108.

Shock oil 55/50

1.5mm on all blocks

That's all I know











































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Old 02-06-2007, 01:42 PM   #7014
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I pitted and worked with the Hb team all weekend,and ran the same setup as Andy,car worked really well!

But carnt go giving all the secrets away
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Old 02-06-2007, 01:51 PM   #7015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew_Carter
I pitted and worked with the Hb team all weekend,and ran the same setup as Andy,car worked really well!

But carnt go giving all the secrets away
You ran a spool then carter no wonder you couldnt keep up
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Old 02-06-2007, 01:53 PM   #7016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2-Bad
If you need a setup for foam then try Diasuke Yoshioka for the "Summer Nats"... 7th from the top

Its very good in modified.

http://www.hpiracing.co.jp/contents/.../download.html
Ok, i already have them, and i probe with a fine tune for me, work very well, thanks.
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Old 02-06-2007, 01:58 PM   #7017
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Russ stuck a spool in for finals,carnt have been that bad... perhaps should of tried 1 way! Next time
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Old 02-06-2007, 02:08 PM   #7018
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Interesting to note he wasn’t using MIP CVD’s on the rear or the aluminium heatsink middle brace that come standard on his car version…
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Last edited by 2-Bad; 02-06-2007 at 02:29 PM.
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Old 02-06-2007, 02:53 PM   #7019
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Will the drive cups from the new WCE Spool fit a TIR spool?
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Old 02-06-2007, 11:23 PM   #7020
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We use the carbon middle deck indoors as it has different flex characteristics to the alloy one.
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