R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 01-26-2007, 02:42 PM   #6871
Tech Champion
 
rc-zombies's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: NorCal. Napa area
Posts: 7,218
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Isaac
Ok who has the 6 degree castor blocks in stock?
if you're unable to find one... PM me.. I have a set I can sell you.
new and nerver been used.
__________________
HB WCE HARA EDITION CYCLONE: LRP Sphere TC, KO 2363 digital servo.
HB HARA EDITION PRO4: Gone to a new home..

SPEEDTECH|FUTABA|KO|ORION|SPEEDWORLD|HARA
rc-zombies is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2007, 04:53 PM   #6872
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 274
Default

just want some advice how to generate more roll on turn..? which one will i adjust..pivot block spacers? of camber link spacer.?this is for asphalt.
jinkasama is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2007, 05:07 PM   #6873
Tech Lord
 
protc3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Spring Hill,Florida
Posts: 10,827
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

i usually shim the blocks up 1.5mm and anything more that needs to be done i do with the camberlinks.
__________________
Jason Breiner
BMI Racing
Team Associated
J Concepts
protc3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2007, 05:26 PM   #6874
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 274
Default

cause im runnin a oneway right now. and i just want it to roll through the corners. i got 1.5 shims on pivot block and 3mm on front camber link.and 1mm on rear...(i dont have .5mm interval shim ) how a bout 2 mm shims on the block?




if only my printer is colorsi wanted to print blank setup sheet to help me out with changes.but sad to say my printer isnt.
jinkasama is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2007, 05:29 PM   #6875
Tech Lord
 
protc3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Spring Hill,Florida
Posts: 10,827
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

try shortening the camber link a little.this will increase the roll.you can also lay your shocks down more.you dont want to raise the inner ballstud too high because you will lose your camber gain
__________________
Jason Breiner
BMI Racing
Team Associated
J Concepts
protc3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2007, 05:37 PM   #6876
ASM
Tech Master
 
ASM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Palm Bay, FL
Posts: 1,290
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

I have the possibility of having either some thicker aluminum or stainless cvd's machined....is there any other interest, especially the guys running spools?? Naturally, this is for the front end but I have something in mind like what Specialized R/C did for the Corally RDX or something along the lines of the old thicker blue ones AE came out for the TC3.

Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks!
__________________
Scott Meeks

2016 ROAR Region 4 VTA Champion
USVTA Member #116
ASM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2007, 05:53 PM   #6877
Super Moderator
 
Marcos.J's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Semper Fi
Posts: 25,609
Trader Rating: 151 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ASM
I have the possibility of having either some thicker aluminum or stainless cvd's machined....is there any other interest, especially the guys running spools?? Naturally, this is for the front end but I have something in mind like what Specialized R/C did for the Corally RDX or something along the lines of the old thicker blue ones AE came out for the TC3.

Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks!
scott you can run the pro4 cvds but you need to use a thinner axle bearing on the inside of the hub (pro4 cvds are a little longer) but it works like a charm
Marcos.J is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2007, 06:12 PM   #6878
Tech Regular
 
floodo1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Fresno, CA
Posts: 452
Send a message via ICQ to floodo1 Send a message via AIM to floodo1 Send a message via Yahoo to floodo1
Default

or you can just get MIP CVD's from the moorespeed kit
floodo1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2007, 06:32 PM   #6879
Super Moderator
 
Marcos.J's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Semper Fi
Posts: 25,609
Trader Rating: 151 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by floodo1
or you can just get MIP CVD's from the moorespeed kit
true but i already had the bearings and the cvds from my old pro4 so no money spent and i had them 6 months ago before the moorespeed came out
Marcos.J is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2007, 09:03 PM   #6880
Tech Champion
 
rc-zombies's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: NorCal. Napa area
Posts: 7,218
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcos.J
scott you can run the pro4 cvds but you need to use a thinner axle bearing on the inside of the hub (pro4 cvds are a little longer) but it works like a charm
but..doesn't that push the axle and pin out farther from the hubs?..and make the car wider?
__________________
HB WCE HARA EDITION CYCLONE: LRP Sphere TC, KO 2363 digital servo.
HB HARA EDITION PRO4: Gone to a new home..

SPEEDTECH|FUTABA|KO|ORION|SPEEDWORLD|HARA
rc-zombies is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2007, 09:08 PM   #6881
Super Moderator
 
Marcos.J's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Semper Fi
Posts: 25,609
Trader Rating: 151 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rc-zombies
but..doesn't that push the axle and pin out farther from the hubs?..and make the car wider?
only about 1mm
Marcos.J is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2007, 10:44 PM   #6882
Tech Addict
 
AngryAsian's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 550
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Does anyone have a spool setup for rubber asphalt?

Low traction outdoor track, medium size. Lots of corners...

I don't particularly like the spool, but I'm giving it another go.
AngryAsian is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2007, 11:38 PM   #6883
Tech Regular
 
swerv512's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 362
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

i need some help with tweak...
i just got the mip twaek system and it says that my battery side is too light. how can this be? i have to push the front shock collar down alot to equal the tweak in the front. anyone else's setup been this far off. i use a NOVAK gts ecs (0.75g), sanwa 94357 servo (2g)and a sanwa 93836 micro receiver (1g), and an epic x stock motor(?g). is it normal for all the elctronics to weigh more than the battery? to which side do you guy shave to mount weights to balance your chassis?- i'm speaking of ni-mh, not lipo.
swerv512 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-29-2007, 12:11 AM   #6884
Tech Elite
 
2-Bad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Australia
Posts: 2,725
Trader Rating: 24 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
i need some help with tweak...
i just got the mip twaek system and it says that my battery side is too light. how can this be? i have to push the front shock collar down alot to equal the tweak in the front. anyone else's setup been this far off. i use a NOVAK gts ecs (0.75g), sanwa 94357 servo (2g)and a sanwa 93836 micro receiver (1g), and an epic x stock motor(?g). is it normal for all the elctronics to weigh more than the battery? to which side do you guy shave to mount weights to balance your chassis?- i'm speaking of ni-mh, not lipo.
swerv512,
Before you start measuring tweak, is your chassis flat? You can use your tweak station to confirm this.
First, remove the tires and place the car on 10mm Hudy blocks to lift the chassis off the tweak bars of the Station. If it’s in error, then you’ll need to get a little violent with the chassis, as it may take some twisting of the chassis to get it flat however this gives you a good starting point.

Next,
Is everything the same length? (shock shafts, spring collars, springs)
If so, bolt on a set of “Set-up wheels” (preferable 63mm dia) then put the car on the Station with one Hudy block under the rear of the car. Check the bubble at the front to see if the front suspension is out?

If so, then it maybe just the positioning of the bulkheads, shock tower, and/or pivot blocks that are causing this. It’s a common misconception that countersunk screws will self centre. This is wrong and the tweak maybe caused by the misalignment of these suspension components.

If you still have Tweak, then if you can, try and replace components one at a time (with a friend's car, if you can).

Once the front end is fix, remove the Hudy block from the rear and repeat the exercise.

Hope this helps.
Peter
__________________
Yokomo * G Force * Sanwa * SMC * ProSpec
2-Bad is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-29-2007, 12:31 AM   #6885
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 38
Default

help explain please ,what are we will gain an advantage from this setting?

1 mm. under front arm mount / 1.5 mm.under rear arm mount [ at the front ]

1 mm. under front arm mount / 1.5 mm.under rear arm mount [ at the rear ]

or lower front arm mount / higher rear arm mount
khunballz is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Hot Bodies Cyclone S wardyl Electric On-Road 4 10-01-2008 07:01 AM
Hot bodies Cyclone 12 k7king R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 1 09-04-2008 07:09 AM
WTB Hot Bodies Cyclone/ cyclone Parts tenpins77 R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 0 07-29-2008 07:48 AM
Hot Bodies Cyclone sdt1 Australia For Sale/Trade 6 07-13-2008 02:05 AM
WTB: Cyclone S/Cyclone Painted bodies vazzo Australia Wanted to Buy 0 02-05-2008 05:15 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 11:59 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net