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Old 12-11-2006, 12:21 PM   #6271
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stew Noble
It helps balance, as the carbon has slightly different flex characteristics to the finned alu version
Also when running the inner camber link positions do you trim down the inner ball joint thread? I have problems with it hitting the bearing holders if i do not do this?
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Old 12-11-2006, 12:33 PM   #6272
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Draper
Also when running the inner camber link positions do you trim down the inner ball joint thread? I have problems with it hitting the bearing holders if i do not do this?
yes on the old black car this was sometimes an issue and shorter ballstuds were neded, but the Hara/Surikarn/Moore edt cars have the bearing holders in-set slightly more that the original car to overcome this issue.
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Old 12-11-2006, 01:24 PM   #6273
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stew Noble
yes on the old black car this was sometimes an issue and shorter ballstuds were neded, but the Hara/Surikarn/Moore edt cars have the bearing holders in-set slightly more that the original car to overcome this issue.
Thanks i will try that setup next week.
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Old 12-11-2006, 03:35 PM   #6274
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where is the cheapest place to pick up a new kit
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Old 12-11-2006, 03:50 PM   #6275
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Good Afternoon Folks.

I am trying to compile a full list of current and past national, worlds, and other championships earned by the Cyclone and it's loyal drivers. I would appreciate any help you could offer. I'm only looking for championships earned using the Cyclone.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 12-11-2006, 04:10 PM   #6276
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Hello all,
I just been reading a few pages of this topic because I am thinking about buying a Cyclone. I thought I might ask you guys what your opinions are of the car, since I'm not very well educated in the Electric on-road ranks.
I'm loking to buy a Cyclone S to just run 540 for the time being, and then later on maybe step up to run stock or something.
What are your opinions on the car? Are they hard to set-up? How would they suit someone who has never raced electric tourers b4 (raced nitro tourer for just on 12 months)? How hard are they to get parts for?
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks..
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Old 12-12-2006, 03:55 AM   #6277
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ballsie
This is what the Moore-Speed WCE box looks like for those that are interested.

Building begins later this week.
hi ballsie where did you get the moorespeed from? no one has got them in stock. also any one know if hot bodies have finally solved the broken diff screw problem with the new ti nitrate diff screw
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Old 12-12-2006, 07:00 AM   #6278
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stephen hilton
hi ballsie where did you get the moorespeed from? no one has got them in stock. also any one know if hot bodies have finally solved the broken diff screw problem with the new ti nitrate diff screw
I got my Moorspeed from RC champ.
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Old 12-12-2006, 10:21 AM   #6279
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Draper
I got my Moorspeed from RC champ.
Ditto
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Old 12-12-2006, 10:56 AM   #6280
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Draper
I got my Moorspeed from RC champ.
Me too.
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Old 12-12-2006, 11:34 AM   #6281
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stephen hilton
hi ballsie where did you get the moorespeed from? no one has got them in stock. also any one know if hot bodies have finally solved the broken diff screw problem with the new ti nitrate diff screw
dont think so theres a guy on here who broke one the only way to solve it is get some ceramic balls and run the associated screw and nut and maybe drill the nut side outdrive .
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Old 12-12-2006, 12:08 PM   #6282
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ngo8
the only way to solve it is get some ceramic balls and run the associated screw and nut and maybe drill the nut side outdrive .
Why would ceramic diff balls help with this problem?
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Old 12-12-2006, 12:19 PM   #6283
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I drilled out the short side of the diff half to 2.5mm and ran an edit diff screw the weekend just gone and the diff held up fine.
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Old 12-12-2006, 12:45 PM   #6284
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I broke a screw, months ago, i change the spring for a Serpent spring 2-speed gearbox, and run fine for me. This spring is slightly less firm, and you can tighten the screw to top, so that the diff not slide, and with a very smooth effect.
The type of grease that is used, also help to that it does not break.
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Old 12-12-2006, 01:14 PM   #6285
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just wondering.. if this is the problem of diff on the front.. why not use oneway? or spool?? think both are pretty much suitable on any track. just my .02cents.
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