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Old 10-30-2006, 04:00 PM   #5986
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rc-zombies
once those aluminum C-hubs get bent... they stay bent.
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Old 10-30-2006, 05:31 PM   #5987
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Default Hello Racers.

Hi Fellow racers. i have just sold off all my JRX-S, and now have a Cyclone. I would like a good base line for a carpet set up and what to use for springs, since i dont understand the hotbodies spec on spring..Nick
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Old 10-30-2006, 06:22 PM   #5988
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phoenix82
Hi Fellow racers. i have just sold off all my JRX-S, and now have a Cyclone. I would like a good base line for a carpet set up and what to use for springs, since i dont understand the hotbodies spec on spring..Nick
What type of tires? Foam or Rubber?

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Old 10-30-2006, 06:41 PM   #5989
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Capt.Micro
Im looking for some Aluminum Steering blocks and C hubs other than those put out by Jet Racing or 3 Racing. I was told the T2 Steering blocks were a direct fit so the team Tamale ones are a possibility but I was looking for other solutions...
Square makes them as well as HPI asia. But like the other guys, I would stick with the kit stuff. The HPI ball studs would break easy if you used the aluminum knuckles or hubs. And those could be a pain in the arse to take out!!
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Old 10-30-2006, 07:34 PM   #5990
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rc-zombies
I'm no expert driver..and the track I race on is full of boards and dots and beat up cars badly. if you're looking for durability..aluminum c-hubs is not the answer. you will only end up breaking arms. Something has to give. durability...invest in a $10 p-dub bumper before you go out and spend $60+ on aluminum parts. Trust me... I've done the aluminum and it's a waste of $$$$ and the only place to place to get aluminum parts is overseas. and remember too..once those aluminum C-hubs get bent... they stay bent.
if you going to run alum caster block and steering block the main thing is although your caster block and steering block wont break first but the suspension arm break, inner and outer hinge pin will bent. another possibility is suspension arm not break but inner and outer hinger pin bent plus your alum part bent. so the best way is used back your original caster and steering block.
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Old 10-30-2006, 09:52 PM   #5991
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Default tires..

hi we are running foam tire, i run 27t and 19t.Nick
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Old 10-31-2006, 12:30 AM   #5992
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I've been running Jet's aluminium steering knuckles and c-hubs for at least 2 years now (at first on my Pro 4 and now on my Cyclone). Apart from the occasional wishbone breakage (probably done about 3 or 4 in total) I've not had any problems with anything else breaking/bending. I used to find that when I broke something on the front it broke everything, knuckle, c hub, top hat washers, ball studs, sometimes driveshafts, all in one go.
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Old 10-31-2006, 09:55 AM   #5993
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skill
I've been running Jet's aluminium steering knuckles and c-hubs for at least 2 years now (at first on my Pro 4 and now on my Cyclone). Apart from the occasional wishbone breakage (probably done about 3 or 4 in total) I've not had any problems with anything else breaking/bending. I used to find that when I broke something on the front it broke everything, knuckle, c hub, top hat washers, ball studs, sometimes driveshafts, all in one go.
it depend on which track you race too!!! i also having no single problem when i run in asphalt outdoor. only facing the problem when i runing in indoor carpet tight track.
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Old 10-31-2006, 10:28 AM   #5994
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Tower Hobbies has a full line of Cyclone parts in stock!
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...ne&FVPROFIL=++
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Old 10-31-2006, 11:50 AM   #5995
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonboyGB
Hey Willz

where abouts in Bristol do you race? are you doing the carpet thrashnals?

Laters John

Hi there John,

Well i used to race at Bristol club but its normally at Cotswolds. Yeah im doing the thrashnals, did the first round and had sooo much bad luck with the RDX hence the new car . I should be there round 3 tho!

Willz
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Old 10-31-2006, 02:41 PM   #5996
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Hey,

Anyone know where I can get a P-dub hard front bumper for my cyclone?
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Old 10-31-2006, 02:50 PM   #5997
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The P-Dub Pro4 bumper is the one you want. It is a direct fit on the Cyclone. However, I haven't seen any places with these in stock for a while now.
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Old 10-31-2006, 03:13 PM   #5998
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You can also use a T2 bumper, its not an exact fit but with a little body reamer work it will fit just fine.
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Old 10-31-2006, 09:44 PM   #5999
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Static_racing
Hey,

Anyone know where I can get a P-dub hard front bumper for my cyclone?
you can buy them here
http://nexusracing.net/index.php?osC...b21de687e17b10 he is very good and ships fast.
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Old 11-01-2006, 02:36 PM   #6000
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Hello All,

I'm going to finish my BMI-clone buildup tonight, and I have one observation and one question.

I took what is probably an obsessively long time to prepare the chassis and shock tower edges, just to make sure they nicely polished. It's my first BMI kit and I wanted it to look nice. When I completed the assembly, I noticed what appeared to be a pretty good tweak in the rear of the chassis. I found that, in sealing the chassis, too much CA got on the middle upper chassis plate and it was pushing against the right middle block. Once I sanded the CA off, everything was fine.

My question is, was everyone else's rear belt pretty tight when you put the kit together? This is both my first Cyclone build (virgin black-ano kit built straight onto the BMI conversion), and also my first belt-drive car. The rear belt a little flex in it in some places (if I use the loosest setting), but as I turn the drivetrain over, it comes up almost taught in some places. Will it loosen up after a good run? I've tried carefully stretching it in place on the chassis, and I haven't felt much of a difference. Am I being paranoid, or do genuinely I need to correct this before I put it down on the track on Friday?

Because I REALLY want to see this thing kick butt during its first outing, and I don't want to look like an idiot if I did something stupid!
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