R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 07-31-2006, 04:56 PM   #4861
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 903
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Protc thats what iv been trying to ask this whole time because i was gettign a bit confused with 64 pitch and 48 pitch......
When i get this do i get the HPI/HB cyclone spring set? or are they indervidual springs i need to buy.
The only thing that was making me head to an xray t2 was i would have to gring the hassis to get the right spur & pinion for the 4.5 novak gtb so i think nwo that thats cleared the hara Cyclone is on my list

Hmmm i may have to change my avatar
jamie814340 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2006, 05:03 PM   #4862
Tech Lord
 
protc3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Spring Hill,Florida
Posts: 10,829
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

if you race on asphalt i would get the HPI spring kit.for carpet run the xray springs.i run the 4.5 in my cyclone on asphalt with track temps exceeding 160 degrees.108/26 works fine for me.no thermaling issues,enough power to last a lifetime also.
__________________
Jason Breiner
BMI Racing
Team Associated
J Concepts
protc3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2006, 05:09 PM   #4863
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 903
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

What pinion and spur would i use if i was runnign 4.5 gtb but going to run (48 pitch).
jamie814340 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2006, 05:26 PM   #4864
Tech Lord
 
protc3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Spring Hill,Florida
Posts: 10,829
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

see if a 76 spur and 18 pinion will fit.that would be ideal.if not go to a 19 pinion and drive it smoothe.what kinda temps are you running in?track temps also.
__________________
Jason Breiner
BMI Racing
Team Associated
J Concepts
protc3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2006, 05:40 PM   #4865
Tech Addict
 
AngryAsian's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 550
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Jamie - I'm almost certain i tried running 48p but couldn't get it to fit.

Can't tell you what fits or not but it's not low enough. I run outdoors on dusty/dirty tracks that kill gears hence my preferrence for 48p.

My pitbox is full of 48p pins and spurs that i cna't use with this car. However, take solace in the fact that you only ever need a 26 or 27pin and a 110 spur.

As protc3 said - when calculating ratio's the pitch does not matter. HOWEVER!!!!!!! the GTB is afterall, a low turn modified which requires fairly precise gearing. The jump between ratio's on 48p are just too big. You're either too low, or too high. Another reason why my toolbox is rattling with 48p stuff..

The HPI spring kit comes as a full set. Nice springs.
Hope that helps mate..
AngryAsian is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2006, 05:43 PM   #4866
Super Moderator
 
Marcos.J's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Semper Fi
Posts: 26,622
Trader Rating: 178 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by AngryAsian
Jamie - I'm almost certain i tried running 48p but couldn't get it to fit.

Can't tell you what fits or not but it's not low enough. I run outdoors on dusty/dirty tracks that kill gears hence my preferrence for 48p.

My pitbox is full of 48p pins and spurs that i cna't use with this car. However, take solace in the fact that you only ever need a 26 or 27pin and a 110 spur.

As protc3 said - when calculating ratio's the pitch does not matter. HOWEVER!!!!!!! the GTB is afterall, a low turn modified which requires fairly precise gearing. The jump between ratio's on 48p are just too big. You're either too low, or too high. Another reason why my toolbox is rattling with 48p stuff..

The HPI spring kit comes as a full set. Nice springs.
Hope that helps mate..
I guess you got the 110 spur to work!
Marcos.J is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2006, 05:44 PM   #4867
Tech Addict
 
AngryAsian's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 550
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
see if a 76 spur and 18 pinion will fit.that would be ideal.if not go to a 19 pinion and drive it smoothe.what kinda temps are you running in?track temps also.
That rings a bell...

Jamie - the 48p does NOT fit. The spur fits, but the pinion is much much too small and the motor mount doesn't allow you to get it anywhere near the spur. I (Foolishly) drove a few times back and forth between the hoppy shop and my place sorting this stuff out. not cool..

stick with the 110 spur (64p) and 26/27pins(64p)
AngryAsian is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2006, 05:47 PM   #4868
Tech Addict
 
AngryAsian's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 550
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

LoL...

Thankyou for reminding me.

Marcos. you the man. Thanks for the tip. You're right about it not completely obliterating itself when the chassis bottoms out.

Cheers!
AngryAsian is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2006, 05:49 PM   #4869
Super Moderator
 
Marcos.J's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Semper Fi
Posts: 26,622
Trader Rating: 178 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by AngryAsian
LoL...

Thankyou for reminding me.

Marcos. you the man. Thanks for the tip. You're right about it not completely obliterating itself when the chassis bottoms out.

Cheers!
yes it would be very rare and almost impossible to bottom out the car perfectly flat to damage the spur ,
Marcos.J is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-2006, 02:14 AM   #4870
Tech Adept
 
JBRacing's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Israel
Posts: 125
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcos.J
yes it would be very rare and almost impossible to bottom out the car perfectly flat to damage the spur ,
I think that the problem isn't going to be bottoming out as much as going over rails/dividers and/or corner dots/markers…..
I would suggest sticking with the 108 and even adding a small and narrow piece of masking-tape on the bottom in order to keep small stones away from the spur.
JBRacing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-2006, 12:21 PM   #4871
Tech Elite
 
yyhayyim's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Weston, FL
Posts: 3,424
Trader Rating: 26 (100%+)
Default Diff Maintanance

Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
if you race on asphalt i would get the HPI spring kit.for carpet run the xray springs.i run the 4.5 in my cyclone on asphalt with track temps exceeding 160 degrees.108/26 works fine for me.no thermaling issues,enough power to last a lifetime also.
I also run Novak Brushless 4.5R on asphalt, here in hot South Florida. However, the rear diff have a problem of getting loose after a few runs, much like the PRO 4. After every 4-5 runs, I have recheck and retighten if needed. THis is the 3rd week I have run the car, and now they have completely melted down! What? I thought these were delrin rear diffs? THey look like regular plastic ones and now I have to rebuild them. Will the PRO 4 delrin outdrives work for the cyclone? If not, I will have to get the plastic ones, since no-one has the aluminum ones in stock. COncerning the plastic ones, I have read from several tipsters here that its best to actually glue the diff rings to the diff outdrive with CA glue or contact glue, and that this is supposedly a cure for diff melt-downs? Others have said to tighten them all the way and then to loosen it 1/4 turn, like the AE TC4 diffs....If there is any here running Cyclones w/ Novak 4.5 motors, on hot asphalt, and can shed some light on how to really tighten and maintain the diffs and prevent melt-downs every run, PLEASE comment ASAP....
yyhayyim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-2006, 12:56 PM   #4872
Tech Champion
 
rc-zombies's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: NorCal. Napa area
Posts: 7,218
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

original cyclone diffs are delrin as well...just in black.
pro4 outdrives will fit but you'll have to add almost 3mm+ of shims to make it work.. probably cheaper in the long run to get the original diffs...

if you can't find the original diff outdrives..lmk.. I may have a spare one I can sell you..
__________________
HB WCE HARA EDITION CYCLONE: LRP Sphere TC, KO 2363 digital servo.
HB HARA EDITION PRO4: Gone to a new home..

SPEEDTECH|FUTABA|KO|ORION|SPEEDWORLD|HARA
rc-zombies is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-2006, 01:16 PM   #4873
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 131
Default

it sounds to me like your diff is built wrong, i ran a 7x1 for 10 meetings on carpet and never had to rebuild
LEE UK is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-2006, 01:16 PM   #4874
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 242
Hello at all , this is my first post, and i like put in the tread of my favorite car
I have the same problem, with the diff., loosen and broken the screw. My motor is a LRP 4*, with a drop of thread lock in the nut, (blue), is cure at the moment.
I gear 108/26, 10.1:1, and i feel is not fast, i gear up to 108/28, 9.40:1, and i broken the rotor, , the second...

sorry, my english.
luic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-2006, 01:18 PM   #4875
Super Moderator
 
Marcos.J's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Semper Fi
Posts: 26,622
Trader Rating: 178 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by yyhayyim


I also run Novak Brushless 4.5R on asphalt, here in hot South Florida. However, the rear diff have a problem of getting loose after a few runs, much like the PRO 4. After every 4-5 runs, I have recheck and retighten if needed. THis is the 3rd week I have run the car, and now they have completely melted down! What? I thought these were delrin rear diffs? THey look like regular plastic ones and now I have to rebuild them. Will the PRO 4 delrin outdrives work for the cyclone? If not, I will have to get the plastic ones, since no-one has the aluminum ones in stock. COncerning the plastic ones, I have read from several tipsters here that its best to actually glue the diff rings to the diff outdrive with CA glue or contact glue, and that this is supposedly a cure for diff melt-downs? Others have said to tighten them all the way and then to loosen it 1/4 turn, like the AE TC4 diffs....If there is any here running Cyclones w/ Novak 4.5 motors, on hot asphalt, and can shed some light on how to really tighten and maintain the diffs and prevent melt-downs every run, PLEASE comment ASAP....
myself and Jason (protc3) have been running the Cyclone with the 4.5 with no problems with the diff.Where do you race in Florida?
Marcos.J is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Hot Bodies Cyclone S wardyl Electric On-Road 4 10-01-2008 07:01 AM
Hot bodies Cyclone 12 k7king R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 1 09-04-2008 07:09 AM
WTB Hot Bodies Cyclone/ cyclone Parts tenpins77 R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 0 07-29-2008 07:48 AM
Hot Bodies Cyclone sdt1 Australia For Sale/Trade 6 07-13-2008 02:05 AM
WTB: Cyclone S/Cyclone Painted bodies vazzo Australia Wanted to Buy 0 02-05-2008 05:15 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 2 (0 members and 2 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 10:03 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net