R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 04-18-2006, 04:26 PM   #3631
Tech Lord
 
protc3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Spring Hill,Florida
Posts: 10,829
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RC Old Man
Ok guys. Stupid question. I was building my Cyclone last night and I noticed I have a 2.5 deg block for the front suspention. This would give the front 2.5 deg of toe out which should make the car more aggressive. Correct? Do most of you run this setup? Also does HB make the toe blocks in blue?
Thanks!
the 2.5 block gives you toe out on the arms or inboard toe.you straighten the wheels out with the tie rods.im not 100% on this but it seems to give the car the similar effect as the reactive castor 1/12th front end.this seemed to make the car turn in real good and hold it through the corner.it doesnt necesarily make it more aggressive.i could be wrong but it seems to reduce the castor angle during suspension compression(which happens entering the corner)and increase the castor angle under acceleration.again,i could be wrong so feel free to correct me.
__________________
Jason Breiner
BMI Racing
Team Associated
J Concepts
protc3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2006, 07:18 PM   #3632
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Downingtown, PA
Posts: 5,767
Trader Rating: 240 (99%+)
Default

Thanks man!
One other stupid question. When you mount the body (mazda 6) The rear wheels arn't in the wheel well indents on the body. I lined up the front so there in the wheel wells but the back isn't. I have allways just cut the wheel wells to the wheel base of the car but, an I doing this wrong? Should I lengthen the wheel base of the car to match the body I am running?

Thanks

P.S. The bumper is right up against the inside of the body and the wheel wells line right up.
__________________
***Team driver for Team Associated, Reedy, A-Main Hobbies, ProTek RC, AKA, Race Ready Products, Garcia Graphix and Integy***
Fred Perkins is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2006, 07:18 PM   #3633
Tech Master
 
Kenneth Tan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Singapore
Posts: 1,123
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Hi,

Has anyone used the new aluminium diff outdrives with the black aluminum bones of the standard kit? I did fit on the plastic clips on the bones, but he bones seemed a tad loose inside the outdrives. Will the bones bend? Thanks.
Kenneth Tan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2006, 07:39 PM   #3634
Tech Elite
 
mike ivy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Comin at ya from a distant galaxy
Posts: 2,792
Trader Rating: 50 (100%+)
Default

Hey Fred,

I would leave the wheelbase alone compaired to my Yokomo BD the Cyclones wheelbase is just a tick shorter dont worry you built the car right LOL...
__________________
[-eXpress motorsports-] [-TQ Wire-]

1/12th Fo' Life!!! R.I.P Mike Reedy, R.I.P John Williams

[-Horsham RC-] [-Jackson RC-] [-RC Car World-] [ Black Out Free 2015 ]
mike ivy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2006, 08:02 PM   #3635
Tech Regular
 
Aurra Sing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Santa Clara, CA, USA
Posts: 462
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RC Old Man
Thanks man!
One other stupid question. When you mount the body (mazda 6) The rear wheels arn't in the wheel well indents on the body. I lined up the front so there in the wheel wells but the back isn't. I have allways just cut the wheel wells to the wheel base of the car but, an I doing this wrong? Should I lengthen the wheel base of the car to match the body I am running?

Thanks

P.S. The bumper is right up against the inside of the body and the wheel wells line right up.
Nope, the rear wheel wells are meant to be cut according to your car's wheelbase (thats why the crease isn't that thick.) Cut the front wheel wells and use the excess lexan to trace a circle for the rear. Or better yet, use a circle cutter...
Aurra Sing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2006, 04:22 AM   #3636
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Downingtown, PA
Posts: 5,767
Trader Rating: 240 (99%+)
Default

Thanks guys! I was just checking. I thought I was doing it right just second guessing myself.

I can't wait to run this car! Excllent build!
__________________
***Team driver for Team Associated, Reedy, A-Main Hobbies, ProTek RC, AKA, Race Ready Products, Garcia Graphix and Integy***
Fred Perkins is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2006, 06:54 AM   #3637
wyd
Tech Legend
 
wyd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Castle Mamba Max Pro. Feel its power!!!!!!!!!!
Posts: 21,097
Trader Rating: 50 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to wyd
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RC Old Man
Thanks guys! I was just checking. I thought I was doing it right just second guessing myself.

I can't wait to run this car! Excllent build!
Fred I want to be the first to whack it at the end of the straight when your broad side!!!!!!!!!!!:lol Hope you bring that car to the ORL2 race as I want to look at the newest version and all the blue stuff. If you kick my ass with it I might have to sell the car I run now and buy another Cyclone.:lol
__________________
Castle Creations (Since 2005)
Bumps & Jumps RC (One of the best racing facilities around)
ST Racing Concepts (STRC) Great aluminum upgrades for many brands.
Custom Works (Best Oval Cars around). Too many titles to list
Shout out to: Sticky Kicks, CR Graphics and Race Ready Products
wyd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2006, 08:21 AM   #3638
Tech Regular
 
EvilDriver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Indonesia
Posts: 356
Send a message via AIM to EvilDriver Send a message via Skype™ to EvilDriver
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kenneth Tan
Hi,

Has anyone used the new aluminium diff outdrives with the black aluminum bones of the standard kit? I did fit on the plastic clips on the bones, but he bones seemed a tad loose inside the outdrives. Will the bones bend? Thanks.
the Alumimum bones will twisted and bend. I used the standart bones for one mod race meets it twisted.. and bend .. So Now I just used the 48mm Steel ones from Hotbodies..
FYI theres 2 diffrents part# I believe one for the fronts and the other one is for the rear..
you could also use Tamiya 48mm Steel Bones too..
__________________
|Xcampus Team Driver |
|Tamiya | TRF | LRP | TEKIN | ORION | Sorex | Futaba| Echologygrafixx |Sweep |
EvilDriver is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2006, 08:39 AM   #3639
Tech Champion
 
rc-zombies's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: NorCal. Napa area
Posts: 7,218
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

here's something I came across on RcMart:
Spool adapter that fits the one-way unit.

__________________
HB WCE HARA EDITION CYCLONE: LRP Sphere TC, KO 2363 digital servo.
HB HARA EDITION PRO4: Gone to a new home..

SPEEDTECH|FUTABA|KO|ORION|SPEEDWORLD|HARA
rc-zombies is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2006, 08:45 AM   #3640
Tech Addict
 
Skill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Doncaster, England
Posts: 537
Default

Surely this would just create a "locked one-way" where both wheels can free-wheel but have to spin together, and not a proper spool?
Skill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2006, 01:19 PM   #3641
Tech Master
 
XrayFK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 1,463
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Skill
Surely this would just create a "locked one-way" where both wheels can free-wheel but have to spin together, and not a proper spool?
Yes, the way that they look in the picture, they will lock with each other, not with the one-way.
XrayFK is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2006, 01:26 PM   #3642
Tech Addict
 
Nathan Parker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 674
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by XrayFK
Yes, the way that they look in the picture, they will lock with each other, not with the one-way.
aka xray type locked one way
Nathan Parker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2006, 04:43 PM   #3643
Tech Master
 
dontfeelcold's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Where there's smoke there's a tyre
Posts: 1,722
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

I ordered a set of those, but I was sent Mini Z bearings instead. All you would have to do is drill a hole in the middle of the oneway and a hole in the middle of the out drive conector thingy, thats what I was going to do.
dontfeelcold is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2006, 02:27 PM   #3644
Tech Regular
 
Andrew_Carter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hb Ninja Squad
Posts: 287
Send a message via MSN to Andrew_Carter
Default

Surley just easier to buy a TIR spool if you want a spool?!
__________________
ToniSport | Yokomo | GavGraphix | MHP
Andrew_Carter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2006, 04:46 PM   #3645
Tech Master
 
dontfeelcold's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Where there's smoke there's a tyre
Posts: 1,722
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

Buying is easy, making/modifying it yourself is satisfying especially when you have the machines to do it properly
dontfeelcold is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Hot Bodies Cyclone S wardyl Electric On-Road 4 10-01-2008 07:01 AM
Hot bodies Cyclone 12 k7king R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 1 09-04-2008 07:09 AM
WTB Hot Bodies Cyclone/ cyclone Parts tenpins77 R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 0 07-29-2008 07:48 AM
Hot Bodies Cyclone sdt1 Australia For Sale/Trade 6 07-13-2008 02:05 AM
WTB: Cyclone S/Cyclone Painted bodies vazzo Australia Wanted to Buy 0 02-05-2008 05:15 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 01:57 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net