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Old 04-09-2006, 01:19 PM   #3541
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Does anyone know how much weight could I save by getting the Titanium Racing titanium screws?

Any other ways to reduce weight? I need to go another 50g lighter....
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Old 04-09-2006, 03:35 PM   #3542
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I wouldnt bother with Ti screws, go for the wheel axles and driveshaft as it will give massive weight savings if you replace all four.
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Old 04-09-2006, 04:16 PM   #3543
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lookinco
Also, today I was using the Hudy balancing tool on the chassis. I found that in order for my chassis to be balanced, I need to add 35g of lead on the battery side. If i do not add the weight, would it affect the handling of the car?
If you're starting off (new to R/C) don't worry about it, you won't feel it.
I would go ahead and put the weight there, it makes people feel better about their cars knowing it is balanced.
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Old 04-09-2006, 07:10 PM   #3544
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skill
The pulley just screws on with the 6 screw holes, I don't see what your problem is, although the holes are a little close to the centre so the screws can be a little difficult to screw in.
i had to use the a 496 diff pulley cause the a495 pulley does not fit ,so i guess i run it like that thxs for info
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Old 04-10-2006, 09:16 AM   #3545
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I have a slight handeling issue i was wondering if any one could help me with it.

the car starts off completly dialed and fast but as the race goes on it ger looses and looses untill it is almost undrivable. It get to the point where as soo as ui start to slow down the rear will step with the slightest turn of the wheels.

i am running on ozite carpet. 38 shore in front 35 shore in back. 50 wt oil all the way around. associated yellow springs in front ans associated purple out back. 2.5 rear toe block. parma alfa body.

3 rear droop on the ae guage i had 5 but 3 worked a little better.

any one. i have a big race in 2 weeks and need to get this straightened out otherwise the car is ausome and everyone at the track agrees.
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Old 04-10-2006, 10:43 AM   #3546
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Ace,

I had a very similar problem with my Pro4. The two things that I found had the post profound effect on this were front diff tightness and front spring stiffness.

If you run a soft front spring, the car transfers too much of its weight to the front axle under deceleration, and the unloaded rear axle will slide. Firming up the front end will reduce this tendancy and help keep things under control.

If you're running the front 1-way, it might be time to look into either a diff or a spool. I had my car running great, then all of a sudden it started doing what you describe. I found that the front diff had loosened to the point that it was acting like a 1-way. I rebuilt the diffs and tightened them so they wouldn't slip, then I added 1/2-turns to the front until the car became more neutral.

Finally, make sure that, regardless of guage reading, that at whatever ride height you're using, you have some "real" droop in the rear suspension. If the rear droop screws are resting on the chassis with the car sitting on the bench, then there is no way for the rear end to transfer weight. It will just pick up the inside tire and likely slide.

When you hit your next practice session, get a battery strapped/taped in and put it down. Run a few laps and see how it does. Pull it after a few laps and start playing with these adjustments and note (to yourself, you don't need to write it down) if they're going the right or wrong way. Make small, incremental changes, and you should be able to feel the effect of the change. Then in the future you'll know what to do if you suddenly (for example) start pushing a lot.

Good luck!!

Mike

Last edited by Johnboy Walton; 04-10-2006 at 10:45 AM. Reason: Edited for grammar
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Old 04-10-2006, 11:01 AM   #3547
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Thanks i was thinkin the front was to soft but i alwas like having a second opinion with a problem such as this thanks. now i can do the same favor for the rest of the cyclone racers at my track. well ill ony tell them a litle i could use an advandage
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Old 04-10-2006, 02:41 PM   #3548
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hey protc3
when will be the 2.25mm ready
my stock is almost down
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Old 04-10-2006, 03:11 PM   #3549
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I raced the Grand Finale race at the Gate in Cleveland this weekend. This was a foam tire race. I made the B in stock and 19t. I think the fastest lap I did in stock was a 10.9, the fast guys went like 10.6, though someone may have done a 10.5. Not awesome, but not horrible.

I had the chance to get through a ton of changes. I did run the arms reversed in the rear with the shocks forward. The car seemed to like pretty heavy springs. I think the best combo may be 28lb (blue hpi) fr/26.5 (green hpi) rear or 30 lb (pink HPI) /28 (blue) rear. I tried 32.5/ 30 but that seemed to kill some steering. Also, rear droop seemed to be an issue. When I had it around 3mm over ride, it was pretty harsh transferring on to off power. I went to 2mm, and that was good. probably 2-2.5 is a decent place to be. Also, I ran the shortest rear link possible, and that really seemed to keep the car rotating.

I also used Schumacher front knuckles. I was running Barracuda knuckles, but I broke one, of the only pair I had. The barracuda knuckles are a direct fit, and have a long arm, which helps to create the right ackerman for carpet. The Schumachers are a bit shorter, but I was able to use a 5mm spacer on the bellcrank to help this.

Also, much like the Pro 4, it will cone the tires the wrong way if you run a lot of spacers on the bulkheads for the camber links.

I also made a topdeck, but the car was still slightly flexy.

Setup
30lb spring hpi blue
50wt losi oil
1.1mm piston Hpi #4
3rd hole in on the tower (#3)/in on the arm(#2)
6*caster
Longest camber link possible (#1), 1mm spacer on caster block, no spacer at bulkhead
camber 2*
barracuda knuckle, back hole, 4mm spacer on bellcrank
no spacers under roll center blocks
0* front block
No sway bar
.5* toe out
spacers behind arms
Front diff/solid layshaft
Droop 1mm
ride 4 to 4.5

Rear
26.6 lb spring (hpi green)
30 wt losi oil
1.1mm piston hpi #4
2nd hole in on tower #4, 2nd hole on arm #2
1.5 rear toe
shortest possible camber link #3 on bulhead, #1 on hub no spacers
1.5mm under roll center blocks
no swaybar
2* camber
Hubs spaced rear


4.3mm front hex, std rear w/1mm spacer
Parma cyan (45/35 shore) fr/magenta (35 sh) rr tires
Paragon out to the hard ring on fronts, full rear
Parma alfa

high traction
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Old 04-10-2006, 04:04 PM   #3550
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robk, your car looked really good this weekend. i don't know how many changes you made after i drove it, but it was really balanced when i did. great job, man.
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Old 04-10-2006, 06:19 PM   #3551
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RaceAce701
Thanks i was thinkin the front was to soft but i alwas like having a second opinion with a problem such as this thanks. now i can do the same favor for the rest of the cyclone racers at my track. well ill ony tell them a litle i could use an advandage
Nice,real nice.Just kidding.Have some ideas I'm going to try on thu or fri.Have to do with wheelbase,spring rates,camber links.Will let you know how it goes,MAYBE.haha.
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Old 04-11-2006, 09:06 AM   #3552
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Good news... maybe...
Hara Edition Cyclone was released today in Japan.
bad news...may not arrive in the US for another couple of months..
since the Surikarn was released last month.. still hasn't made it
to our shores....
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Old 04-11-2006, 09:08 AM   #3553
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whats the main difference in the surk and hara editions , other than colors
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Old 04-11-2006, 09:11 AM   #3554
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ICEMAN
whats the main difference in the surk and hara editions , other than colors
none...they're both mechanically identical
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Old 04-11-2006, 09:51 AM   #3555
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rc-zombies
Good news... maybe...
Hara Edition Cyclone was released today in Japan.
bad news...may not arrive in the US for another couple of months..
since the Surikarn was released last month.. still hasn't made it
to our shores....
On the for sale area,someone is selling a surikian edition cyclone for 460.00
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