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Old 03-20-2006, 11:01 AM   #3256
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gido
Can't seem to insert a small allen all the way in. Been turning it but couldn't find the hole to go through.
You have to make sure that the diff screw matches up with the hole in the outdrive so it catches on the inserted wrench.
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Old 03-20-2006, 11:31 AM   #3257
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nickmind
Where is the Best place to buy a Cyclone?
regular versin... Stormer Hobbies.. $399

Surikarn Edition.. Champs or RcModel.. $469.. + shipping $30-$40
Hara Edition.. to be released in April.
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Last edited by rc-zombies; 03-20-2006 at 02:12 PM.
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Old 03-20-2006, 12:26 PM   #3258
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpeedDesignz
Has anyone tried the reversed rear shock mod on thier Cyclone yet ?


I did it to my Pro 4 this weekend and the car rotates sooo much better.

carpet
foams

that is

just want to get some opion on set ups


the belt car may not be far off


I'm interested in this. Did you flip the arm over so that you didn't have to drill new holes for the lower shock mount ? What about the droop screws ?
Thanks.
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Old 03-20-2006, 01:56 PM   #3259
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You just lost me there I thinks he meant was everything is still the same except you flip the shocks the other way.
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Old 03-20-2006, 02:42 PM   #3260
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My guess is that he swapped the alum. shock mount right to left and left to right. This would put the tower and the shock in front of the axle but you have no where to mount the the lower part of the shock to the arm unless you drill a new hole in the arm OR flip the arm over. If you do that then you can't use the droop screw because there isn't any chassis to back it up.
I'm just guessing here. I hope he will set us all straight soon. I wonder how this helps turn in ? Sounds interesting.
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Old 03-20-2006, 05:23 PM   #3261
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Guo Chean
hey Jason,
did you have any of your cyclone BMI chassis photo? could you post on that so we can have a better look on what cyclone BMI chasiss look like. thanks
If he did that would be cool. But as for now it looks as the one of kind car is mia as it was stolen after nats. it looks like.
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Old 03-22-2006, 04:46 AM   #3262
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Default Front diff

Getting one of these but,Gonna be carpet racing.Would like a front diff instead of the oneway.I understand that most of the needed parts are available except the bearings and washers.Does anyone know of other parts that can be used,Like maybe HPI diff parts? I seem to remember somewhere reading that someone used an HPI diff up front instead of the Hot bodies.Any info on this? Any help is most appreciated.Thanks,Mario.
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Old 03-22-2006, 05:38 AM   #3263
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Well Im tired of breaking ball stud and haveing to replace the parts becouse I cant get the other half out. I switched to hiem joints (x-ray) type rod ends and the car drove like a dream.

LOTUS: the HPI internals work perfectly no worries
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Old 03-22-2006, 05:47 AM   #3264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lotus1
Getting one of these but,Gonna be carpet racing.Would like a front diff instead of the oneway.I understand that most of the needed parts are available except the bearings and washers.Does anyone know of other parts that can be used,Like maybe HPI diff parts? I seem to remember somewhere reading that someone used an HPI diff up front instead of the Hot bodies.Any info on this? Any help is most appreciated.Thanks,Mario.
The diff is actually entirely HPI parts. The only HB part is the outdrive. However, you can use the HPI Pro4 outdrives. (HB outdrives $25, HPI ones $6) If you use the HPI outdrives then you need about 15 0.2mm shims on each side.
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Old 03-22-2006, 06:10 AM   #3265
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XrayFK
The diff is actually entirely HPI parts. The only HB part is the outdrive. However, you can use the HPI Pro4 outdrives. (HB outdrives $25, HPI ones $6) If you use the HPI outdrives then you need about 15 0.2mm shims on each side.
Thanks,Mario.
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Old 03-22-2006, 07:01 AM   #3266
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XrayFK
The diff is actually entirely HPI parts. The only HB part is the outdrive. However, you can use the HPI Pro4 outdrives. (HB outdrives $25, HPI ones $6) If you use the HPI outdrives then you need about 15 0.2mm shims on each side.
Dumb question...Shims.... or a spacer the right size? I would imagine either way as long as the spacing is correct.?. Any drawbacks to using the HPI with shims/spacer?Or just do it and go?Thanks,Mario.BTW,bear,thanks too,just saw your reply.
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Old 03-22-2006, 08:25 AM   #3267
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lotus1
Dumb question...Shims.... or a spacer the right size? I would imagine either way as long as the spacing is correct.?. Any drawbacks to using the HPI with shims/spacer?Or just do it and go?Thanks,Mario.BTW,bear,thanks too,just saw your reply.
This is what you need: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXGPA7&P=7
There is also a 0.1mm washer for even finer adjustments. You need ~3mm on each side.
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Old 03-22-2006, 01:23 PM   #3268
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so i gess you can use the hpi pro4 ball diff with a "hb?" gear (cus its belt not shaft so the bevel wont work will it) and just and shims or the hb's outdirves?
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Old 03-22-2006, 01:33 PM   #3269
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyclone
so i gess you can use the hpi pro4 ball diff with a "hb?" gear (cus its belt not shaft so the bevel wont work will it) and just and shims or the hb's outdirves?
you will also need the longer Pro4 CV bones which is not available in the US.
that will fit the cyclone axles.
or use the Pro4 MIPS axles and bones.
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Old 03-22-2006, 02:25 PM   #3270
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For anyone trying to build a diff, try sourcing the revised pulleys and alloy diff outdrives. I would also advised not to go with the HPI diff outdrives route, saving $18 bucks is not worth it with all the trouble you would need to do and you will eventual end up buying the real thing after, like what happen to me.
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