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Old 01-20-2006, 08:16 AM   #2551
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Originally Posted by JonboyGB
15.3 Blue
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Thanks, though those seem a little soft compared to the Xray springs I have, they go up to 38.
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Old 01-20-2006, 08:50 AM   #2552
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Originally Posted by The Teacher
wyd..... ....I haven't had that problem yet.
I didn't think I tightened then any tighter than I normally would on ony other car. Oh well not a huge deal though. I will just order a few spares.
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Old 01-20-2006, 03:36 PM   #2553
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Originally Posted by wyd
I didn't think I tightened then any tighter than I normally would on ony other car. Oh well not a huge deal though. I will just order a few spares.
no big deal. I did the same with one of mine. they're not too expensive. i ordered new ones from tower.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXGNX2
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Old 01-20-2006, 04:52 PM   #2554
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Originally Posted by wyd
Well about 65% done with the car. Everything is very smooth. Only problem is I broke 2 ball studs so far as they seem to split easily if you tighten them up too tight (I actually didn't think it was that tight but apparently it was). No big deal as I will just order a few more.
yeah i broke a cpl just be careful when u race the car plse check the studs they tend to get lose and check ur screws
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Old 01-20-2006, 06:37 PM   #2555
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Originally Posted by wyd
I didn't think I tightened then any tighter than I normally would on ony other car. Oh well not a huge deal though. I will just order a few spares.

Just curious, where do they break ? They look pretty stout.
Thanks.
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Old 01-20-2006, 06:46 PM   #2556
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Originally Posted by jag88
Just curious, where do they break ? They look pretty stout.
Thanks.
Mine broke the ball dead center in 1/2 when I tightened too hard (I didn't think I tightened them too hard but not a huge deal). Both the ones I broke broke 1/2 the ball stud and half still was their.

Have not worked on the car anymore today. I plan on finishing it up tommorrow when I'm not so tired. Up til 2AM last night and was up at 5:30AM so I a little tired and not really in a hurry.
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Old 01-20-2006, 09:43 PM   #2557
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hara doesnt have to glue his chassis, because it takes a LOT of time to glue and offers no performance advantage. im sure if he does have time he'll glue it, but pro's dont have many chassis delaminating type of crashes

i really think gluging chassis is overrated, because not many things can delaminate your chassis. then again time spent up front (gluing) CAN save you down the road so its definately valuable. "better safe than sorry".


im suprised everyone has so many ballstud problems. i guess im just lucky
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Old 01-21-2006, 12:47 AM   #2558
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I've seen the ball studs crack as wyd described, but also the ones I have broken whilst racing have snapped clean off either just at the end of the ball or underneath the flanged part. I don't think it's the actual design of the ball studs that's at fault, just the extremely brittle material they use.
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Old 01-21-2006, 08:18 AM   #2559
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skill
I've seen the ball studs crack as wyd described, but also the ones I have broken whilst racing have snapped clean off either just at the end of the ball or underneath the flanged part. I don't think it's the actual design of the ball studs that's at fault, just the extremely brittle material they use.
Exactly my thought. I just think they are extremely brittle but rather break those than some other stuff so thats ok. I just was alot more careful when I put my other ones on the car.

I just getting ready to dig into the shocks. Take my time building them and see if I get the leaking problem or not. Like I mentioned before this is by far one of the easist kits I have ever built. All parts fit flawlessly.

One modification I did was to drill a hole in my camber links so I can use my 2mm ball driver and remove the studs without popping off my link all the time. Now I can raise and lower the camber easily without stretching out my ball cups all the time.
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Old 01-21-2006, 08:28 AM   #2560
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It's probably a material or heat treat problem on the studs.

As far as CA'ing the chassis edges, if you ever got one of those tiny almost invisible graphite splinters in your finger then you'll be reaching for the CA bottle for all your graphite parts.
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Old 01-21-2006, 09:13 AM   #2561
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Hey guys,

I was wondering if you guys could measure something on your Cyclones for me. I need the measurement in MM for height of the rear bulkhead from bottom deck to the top of the top deck.

Photo for reference is attached.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 01-21-2006, 05:45 PM   #2562
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wyd
Exactly my thought. I just think they are extremely brittle but rather break those than some other stuff so thats ok. I just was alot more careful when I put my other ones on the car.

I just getting ready to dig into the shocks. Take my time building them and see if I get the leaking problem or not. Like I mentioned before this is by far one of the easist kits I have ever built. All parts fit flawlessly.

One modification I did was to drill a hole in my camber links so I can use my 2mm ball driver and remove the studs without popping off my link all the time. Now I can raise and lower the camber easily without stretching out my ball cups all the time.
Would have to agree that this is one of the easiest kits to build and also to work on in the pits. We had Daisuke Yoshioka at our local outdoor/asphalt track and really taught us locals a huge lesson. In set-up and driving. Was cool for us to experience as we don't get anyone of that calibre here in New Zealand. He broke the track record for fastest lap with only his 2nd full pack through the car and also later on broke record for most laps in 5 min period (12turn limit here).
Wyd: what diameter hole do you drill in the camber links? Did you only do this to the camber links or did you do it to any of the other cups?
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Old 01-21-2006, 05:54 PM   #2563
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For the camberlink ball cup mod I drilled the hole with a 3/32 drill bit. After I did this I checked to see if my MIP 2mm driver would fit thru the hole. I found it needed to be a tad bigger so I just used my body reamer and carefully enlarged the hole a tad bigger. Took my exacto knife to remove any left over flashing and I was done. I only did the camber links because those will be the ones I raise or lower 99% of the time. I did the ones on the hubs and caster blocks as well, not just the ones on the inner camber ball studs. Worked out great. The cups are super smooth with zero binding of any type. Very easy mod that can be done in 15 minutes at home or the track if you just take your time. If you do they will look total factory.
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Old 01-21-2006, 06:39 PM   #2564
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I ran into my first problem. I built all my shocks but I have one where the threaded retainer will not thread right. It is so tight once you get it started that you can't tighten it any farther. It is not cross threaded and I already tried all the other retainers on this shock and the same results. It seems like maybe the hard anodize might be a few mils thicker and causing the problem.

I just ordered some new bodies and extra retainers. Stormer Hobbies had them all in stock so I should still easily be good to go for next weekend.

One other note is Rayspeed Springs fit thse shock perfectly. I had all the springs from when I ran them on my Cuda and Yokes. Just one more tuning option available for those that have these springs. I decided to use these instead of order a set of HPI springs at this time.

Last edited by wyd; 01-21-2006 at 07:57 PM.
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Old 01-21-2006, 10:19 PM   #2565
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I rebuilt my shocks with TAMIYA bladder(cuz I had some laying around)and the work fine. I don't like the little foam thing that sits on top of the bladder so I used two o-rings instead. Pretty good now Also got the Square right bulk head peice. Looks like an MSX, haha.
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