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Old 11-26-2005, 08:48 AM   #1951
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Originally Posted by tc3 racer sc
i hve took a part the diff put it bck toghter put it in the car and it still will not center i moved the diff and moves left to right what im doing wrong
If you look back a few pages on this thread you will find a discussion of this exact issue. The diff for this car is naturally loose and will move back and forth no matter how much you tighten it down. I talked to a Factory driver at my race track and he says this is not a defect. They simply make them like this. The diff will still go straight when you push the trigger.
I also used 2 bearings instead of a bearing and 2 spacers as I assembled the diff. This was something which some other guys had recommended. Works quite well.
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Old 11-26-2005, 09:37 AM   #1952
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Originally Posted by nordheim
If you look back a few pages on this thread you will find a discussion of this exact issue. The diff for this car is naturally loose and will move back and forth no matter how much you tighten it down. I talked to a Factory driver at my race track and he says this is not a defect. They simply make them like this. The diff will still go straight when you push the trigger.
I also used 2 bearings instead of a bearing and 2 spacers as I assembled the diff. This was something which some other guys had recommended. Works quite well.
ok so ur saying that the way it is to move like that tke the spacer out and do to bearings ok thxs for the hepl will do it had me flaming u know what pages i was trying to find it
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Old 11-26-2005, 10:13 AM   #1953
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Originally Posted by tc3 racer sc
ok so ur saying that the way it is to move like that tke the spacer out and do to bearings ok thxs for the hepl will do it had me flaming u know what pages i was trying to find it
I mentioned it first on page 40. You can see all the replies from that point out. It was Rc-Zombies who first posted the trick with the 2 bearings instead of using the 2 plastic spacers. I scratched my head so much as a result of how sloppy the diff was but I guess sloppy is good
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Old 11-26-2005, 10:16 AM   #1954
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Cyclones going on E-Bay for $380. This is who I got mine from. He shipped quick.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Hot-Bodies-Cyclo...QQcmdZViewItem
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Old 11-26-2005, 10:22 AM   #1955
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hey guys one questioned after running my car a couple days of racing it is still tight it will not roll as free as my pro4 and it will probably will never but its still to tight anyone have this did you guys do anything to free it ans how do i loosen the belts?anyhelp will be great .
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Old 11-26-2005, 10:23 AM   #1956
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Originally Posted by Mitropoulos Jim
I think it would not make any difference,since the car is very stable,and generally...perfect straight out of the box!

Here is a picture of my car.Not very good quality.Another one will follow shortly after...
Do you guys make the transponder holder plate or get it somewhere else? I assume it is placed on top of the servo with servo tape?
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Old 11-26-2005, 10:27 AM   #1957
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Originally Posted by ngo8
hey guys one questioned after running my car a couple days of racing it is still tight it will not roll as free as my pro4 and it will probably will never but its still to tight anyone have this did you guys do anything to free it ans how do i loosen the belts?anyhelp will be great .
You just have to shim it right. It will never get close to as free as your Pro4 due to the belts and the center diff.
However, make sure you have straight lines for the belts to work with and keep everything lubed up and clean at all times.
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Old 11-26-2005, 05:01 PM   #1958
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Come on lads tidy your wiring up and represent!
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Old 11-26-2005, 08:19 PM   #1959
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Come on lads tidy your wiring up and represent!
I ordered purple silicone wire today to dress it up. Will post pics when I am all ready.
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Old 11-26-2005, 08:30 PM   #1960
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ok here is a little feedback on the drivetrain being to tight as i was loosening the screws to take out the diff i tryed rolling the car and it was so much more free there was no resistance or anything the car rolled pretty good so when you go to tighten the bulkhead do not overtighten the screws as it binds the bearings and they make the car very tight .
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Old 11-26-2005, 10:57 PM   #1961
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ooookay here it is
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Old 11-27-2005, 10:50 AM   #1962
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ngo8
hey guys one questioned after running my car a couple days of racing it is still tight it will not roll as free as my pro4 and it will probably will never but its still to tight anyone have this did you guys do anything to free it ans how do i loosen the belts?anyhelp will be great .
Hey,
To loosen the belts you rotate the octagonal diff bearing holders around in the bulkheads so that the thickest parts with the lines on them are pointing outwards. This is for the loosest setting, but you can play about with it as all the sides of the bearing holders are different thicknesses. Just make sure u get them the same both sides or the diffs will sit unevenly in the bulkheads.

Hope you can understand that? if not ill take a picture.
Phil.
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Old 11-27-2005, 11:03 AM   #1963
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Perhaps this has been asked before but I just purchased a Cyclone and I will be racing on asphalt.

I was wondering what brand springs you all recommend as well as any potential hopups (spools, turnbuckles, etc.) that I can purchase and links if possible.

I appreciate the help on this car. =)
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Old 11-27-2005, 12:26 PM   #1964
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Hey,
Id recomend the Hpi Pro 4 spring set, HP75175, this is perfect as it has a good range of rates.
You may need 2 if you want to run the same springs all round.

Other things you made need are a set of pivot blocks, I have 0, 1, 1.5, 2, 2.5 and 3 degree blocks for the front and 2, 2.5 and 3 for the rear. Although these are intercahngable front and rear i prefered to have a set for each.

You may also want a few pairs of castor blocks, i have 0, 2, 4 and 6 degree.

Thats all you really need tuning wise, although u may want a spool (TIR one is very good or you could get the Hotbodies one), a diff for the front and a locked pulley for the layshaft. The pulley you'll need is...
CYCLONE CENTRE PULLEY (16T) HB70725
and you get the layshaft you need in the kit.

I cant really think of anything else you might need.
Hope this helps,
Phil.
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Old 11-27-2005, 02:56 PM   #1965
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil C
Hey,
Id recomend the Hpi Pro 4 spring set, HP75175, this is perfect as it has a good range of rates.
You may need 2 if you want to run the same springs all round.

Other things you made need are a set of pivot blocks, I have 0, 1, 1.5, 2, 2.5 and 3 degree blocks for the front and 2, 2.5 and 3 for the rear. Although these are intercahngable front and rear i prefered to have a set for each.

You may also want a few pairs of castor blocks, i have 0, 2, 4 and 6 degree.

Thats all you really need tuning wise, although u may want a spool (TIR one is very good or you could get the Hotbodies one), a diff for the front and a locked pulley for the layshaft. The pulley you'll need is...
CYCLONE CENTRE PULLEY (16T) HB70725
and you get the layshaft you need in the kit.

I cant really think of anything else you might need.
Hope this helps,
Phil.
well the car is sweet but you can also pick up some spacer from jetracing on precisionrc. com very sweet
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