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Old 08-12-2010, 05:50 PM   #19366
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Take it all in baby .... you know how I like it!!!!!

Gees ............. goop hold back a little, I'm surprised you can even walk after that one!!!!

Talk to you later Buddy!!!!

Alex
? just congratulating a friend. have no idea what your talking about
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Old 08-12-2010, 06:02 PM   #19367
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wrong thread...hehe
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Old 08-13-2010, 02:36 AM   #19368
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? just congratulating a friend. have no idea what your talking about
I think he had a bit to drink.... LMAO. Thanks buddy
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Old 08-13-2010, 05:52 AM   #19369
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Nats Setup
hey Korey - what kind of servo are you running in your car?
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Old 08-13-2010, 11:00 AM   #19370
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Ko Propo PDS 2413 . It's Ko's low profile servo.

-Korey
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Old 08-13-2010, 11:21 AM   #19371
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3 deg of arm sweep in the front gave more mid-exit steering. I also ran 2 deg of rear toe in because the traction was very high, and it aided in straight line speed and overall corner speed in the center of the corner.

-Korey
hummmm.. ok!!
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Old 08-13-2010, 11:28 AM   #19372
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For most tracks I still use the 2.5 front and 3 rear as a starting point. The grip was VERY high at Norcal raceway, much higher than I have ever seen from anywhere else, so the setup is a little unique.

-Korey
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Old 08-13-2010, 02:01 PM   #19373
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Korey,

When do you find it best to use the 1.0/1.0 or 1.5/1.5 blocks in the front instead of the standard rear front mount? Is it only for high bite or does it make the car feel odd and you don't use it normally? Also, when you do this does this push the width of the car out to far to meet ROAR specs? DO you then use the thin hexes to get the width in spec?

Thanks
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Old 08-13-2010, 02:38 PM   #19374
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is there alternative to HB Differential Cup Joint Adapter, it's high price for two and i hope for something cheaper that fit.
thanks
lets try again with to the drivers that did well on race
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Old 08-13-2010, 09:09 PM   #19375
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Originally Posted by dizzy1 View Post
Korey,

When do you find it best to use the 1.0/1.0 or 1.5/1.5 blocks in the front instead of the standard rear front mount? Is it only for high bite or does it make the car feel odd and you don't use it normally? Also, when you do this does this push the width of the car out to far to meet ROAR specs? DO you then use the thin hexes to get the width in spec?

Thanks
I use those when grip is very high... usually only on carpet it seems. I use all the standard blocks when on asphalt... usually results in more steering. I still think they are better most of the time.

-Korey
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Old 08-14-2010, 07:59 AM   #19376
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
I use those when grip is very high... usually only on carpet it seems. I use all the standard blocks when on asphalt... usually results in more steering. I still think they are better most of the time.

-Korey
I know this should be asked on the TCX thread but because it was brought up here and I know you use them, was there any provision for running the 1.5/1.5 or 2.0/2.0 front end mod on the TCX ? Are there extra holes and special blocks provided ?
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Old 08-14-2010, 11:01 AM   #19377
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I'm pretty sure it has the holes (not 100% on that) but the main reason to use the wider blocks before was to lengthen the front camber link beyond what we could before. Now that the TCX has longer links anyway, I don't see it being needed.

But... I'm not 100% sure as I have never run the TCX yet. I'll try it and let everyone know once mine arrives.

-Korey
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Old 08-14-2010, 05:18 PM   #19378
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Well guys, after two race weekends on my new POM diff, i find that its not up to snuff for me. i think the alloy diff from the MooreSpeed edition will hold up better. the plastic one has to go
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Old 08-15-2010, 03:57 AM   #19379
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korey...

recently got a exotek chassis and wondering if i should change anything to accomadate this ?

Currently i run http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/hotb...etup200712.pdf

Im running 13.5t , in cold british weather normally on 27R tyres , I also been running cut top and middle deck

Also my exotek chassis has the holes for the FR and RF mod

Thanks
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Old 08-15-2010, 10:25 AM   #19380
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Well guys, after two race weekends on my new POM diff, i find that its not up to snuff for me. i think the alloy diff from the MooreSpeed edition will hold up better. the plastic one has to go
I disagree my diff. POM TC is much more resistant of Moorespeed version (at least 10.5)
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