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Old 07-07-2010, 04:16 PM   #19231
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Hi

Thanks for that

Do you get any front tyre grooving on the inside with this setup ?

Thanks
It seems to depend a lot on the tire, doesn't matter what car. Maybe something to do with the insert/tire combos.
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Old 07-07-2010, 04:55 PM   #19232
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On the settings that Korey has used.. what does it do to the rear of the car when you swap the shims in the rear hub / rear arm joint. Does it increase the wheel base and make it less prone to spin from the rear as there is less weight behind the wheel?? or does it do something else.. I usually have the standard settings here which is 2mm at the rear and .7 at the front on the hub joint (don't know what else to call tha area)..

I will give it a go next meet but just want to see what affects on handling I should be looking out for..

Thanks
When I lengthen the wheel base in the rear at the inner hinge pins, the car is usually a little smoother on entry into the corner, and has a little bit more mid-exit steering. Shortening it does the exact opposite. A little bit better entry steering, and less mid-exit on tighter corners.

When I change wheelbase at the hub, it seems to do act a little bit different. I don't notice much change in how much steering the car has, but I notice more about the forward grip the car has. Shorter... more forward grip. Longer... less forward grip. I think it has something to do with the driveshaft angle more than anything, but honestly I almost never play with these adjustments. I leave it all stock pretty much.

In the front I slam the arms all the way back (all shims in front of the arm) to give the shortest wheelbase from the front. Seems like it gives it a little bit more of an edgy feeling (which I like). If you just want to give the car that nice Caddilac feel... lengthen the front.

You might feel something different. Just give it a shot and see what you think. That is what I have found to work for me.

-Korey
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Old 07-07-2010, 04:58 PM   #19233
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anyone ???
Usually it effects how stiff the bladder is and how much rebound will result. Foam is obviously softer than the orings, so it shoul dhave a less aggressive effect. When I run the foam, I usually get a little more rebound than if I didnt use it. I feel it also makes the shock pack up a little quicker since the bladder won't be deflecting as much. This forces the oil through the piston, rather than just moving up the shock body if the bladder were to deflect.

Right now, I usually run zero rebound. I drill a small 1mm hole in the shock cap and dont run any foam. Usually when I build shocks they get a tiny bit of rebound, then it goes away after the first run. Seems to work pretty good for me!

-Korey
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Old 07-07-2010, 05:04 PM   #19234
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thanks abunch that was exactly was i was looking for

ur the best
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Old 07-08-2010, 07:12 PM   #19235
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50% off 3racing Cyclone part closeout at Speedtech!
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Old 07-08-2010, 08:31 PM   #19236
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
Usually it effects how stiff the bladder is and how much rebound will result. Foam is obviously softer than the orings, so it shoul dhave a less aggressive effect. When I run the foam, I usually get a little more rebound than if I didnt use it. I feel it also makes the shock pack up a little quicker since the bladder won't be deflecting as much. This forces the oil through the piston, rather than just moving up the shock body if the bladder were to deflect.

Right now, I usually run zero rebound. I drill a small 1mm hole in the shock cap and dont run any foam. Usually when I build shocks they get a tiny bit of rebound, then it goes away after the first run. Seems to work pretty good for me!

-Korey

Hi Korey, I'm assuming this is for asphault. Would you drill the cap for carpet of average grip ?
Thanks.
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Old 07-11-2010, 07:56 AM   #19237
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Default First time on rubber

Hi could somebody please help me
this is my first time racing on rubber tyres
the tyres we use are spec tyres the problem is the car is very loose at the back on and off power after the first 2 min
here is my setup
thanks
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Old 07-11-2010, 09:41 AM   #19238
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Hi could somebody please help me
this is my first time racing on rubber tyres
the tyres we use are spec tyres the problem is the car is very loose at the back on and off power after the first 2 min
here is my setup
thanks
Unfortunately, the tires Top mediums are not the best for keeping the rear, as they tend to lose grip suddenly, however this is the best setup I found for these tires (Weather temp. 30 C, track small, medium grip)

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Old 07-11-2010, 09:59 AM   #19239
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Thanks agno will give it a try
are the springs hpi
how many pounds are they
i use ae shock oil will the 500 be the same as 50 associated oil
Thanks
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Old 07-11-2010, 10:50 AM   #19240
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Originally Posted by duggyload View Post
Thanks agno will give it a try
are the springs hpi
how many pounds are they
i use ae shock oil will the 500 be the same as 50 associated oil
Thanks
The springs are HPI, Silver 16.9, 15.3 blue.
50 WT oil is denser than 500 cps, attaching a conversion table

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Old 07-11-2010, 11:01 AM   #19241
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Thanks for the help agno will try it out and let you know
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Old 07-11-2010, 10:28 PM   #19242
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my front wheels chatters when steered left or right. i'm using MIP CVD now.
is there a way to correct this other than the DCJ part?
anyone?
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Old 07-11-2010, 11:50 PM   #19243
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That's something you can't get rid of entirely on any touring car. Especially when the wheels aren't even loaded, it will be much worse when testing on the bench. DCJs even still do it to a certain extent, its just a lot less.

Hope that helps!

-Korey
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Old 07-11-2010, 11:50 PM   #19244
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anyone?
Run DCJ drive shafts.

http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...id=472&id=8509
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Old 07-12-2010, 06:20 AM   #19245
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Hi Korey, I'm assuming this is for asphault. Would you drill the cap for carpet of average grip ?
Thanks.
Hi Korey, whats your opinion ? Would you use foam also.
Thanks.
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