vassago

On the Cyclone you can also tighten the diff in the car, insert a small screwdriver or a long bodypin in the screw and turn the wheel. It's a bit fiddly but when you get the hang of it it's pretty doable.

It depends a bit on the size of your track, but upgrading to any recent speedo will make your car a lot faster. The GTB doesn't do any variable timing at all, it will look like you are standing still compared to a recent speedo. (GM 90/120 ver2, Tekin RS, LRP SXX stock spec)

I find the DCJ axles are especially usefull on small tracks with tight turns, on large tracks I don't notice any difference at all.

mlight13

iTrader: (40)

I need some help with setup. When I built my car, I adjusted the droop to 7mm front and 6mm rear due to me driving on bumpy asphalt. Once it was all put together, and the ride height and camber were set, I noticed that it looked unbalanced when I lifted the chassis slightly to check the uptravel, one wheel lifts off the ground 1/2 inch when the other is still on the table. I adjusted them to now rise off the table evenly but one droop screw is almost all the way out and the other is screwed all the way in. I also added weights to offset the weight of my Lipo. Which is the best way to go...even droop measurements on both sides or have both wheels lift up at one time? Thank you.

carcrazy699

iTrader: (49)

hey guys what would you recomend for a fdr for the cyclone running a 13.5 on a 150x45 track?

oh and what is the math to figure out the ratios? i forgot where i saw it and didnt get a chance to write it down

SpidarX

iTrader: (3)

Is the ride height the same on each side of the chassis?

mlight13

iTrader: (40)

Yeah, I get the ride height exactly the same, but when I lift the chassis, one side lifts up before the other which to me indicates unbalanced turning. Is it more important to have the same measurements on both sides with a droop gauge, or making the tires come off the ground evenly when it is all put together?

mlight13

iTrader: (40)

http://www.gearchart.com

vassago

This...

Check uptravel without shocks, if it is even than you have found the issue.
Most likely it is the shocks.

SpidarX

iTrader: (3)

+1

mlight13

iTrader: (40)

Cool thanks. I have taken my shocks off and the shocks on one side are a little taller than the other. About 1-2mm or so. Can't I just unscrew the bottom thing a little to make them even or do I need to rebuild them? They are basically brand new and I don't want to rebuild them if I don't have to. Thanks again...

Hi-LowBlow

iTrader: (1)

I suggest you to set the shock length (from top to the bottom) at 64.0mm. This would be the best default length for all four shocks.

Thanks,

Robio

iTrader: (5)

Yes. you want to turn the threaded eye on the shaft end to the length Mr. Hiro-san recommended.

Rob........

charlie_b

iTrader: (1)

Glad you got your answers Mark.

gixer

Quick question please.

Does anyone know the part number for those chassis stiffening spacers used on the TC?

They are the ones that attach right at the ends of the "Y" upper chassis brace.


I'm going to be ordering up the LiPo conversion and fancy experimenting with adjusting the stiffness of the chassis.

charlie_b

iTrader: (1)

61289
SOLID MIDDLE DECK

61283
CHASSIS POST WITH
ATC-ADJUSTABLE TORSION
CONTROL

mlight13

iTrader: (40)

Thank you Charlie_B and others. I am new to the TC scene so I ask a lot of questions. But is it awesome people like you that make this hobby a little less frustrating.