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Old 03-28-2010, 02:11 AM   #18856
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonny123 View Post
Yes, as it has the flat spots on both sides of
the layshaft so is for direct drive :-)

Jonny
OK, thanks!
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Old 03-28-2010, 02:42 AM   #18857
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Figured I'd give you guys a shot at this... Although Charlie might come by and smack me on the head

Dialed Cyclone TC and Cyclone Foam chassis kit

-Korey
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Old 03-28-2010, 02:54 AM   #18858
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Originally Posted by mac853 View Post
Could somebody confirm for me if this part is for direct drive?

Best regards
I bought two of them, use the first one... At the end of the first pack it was totally twisted and unusable...

I sell directly the second...

Now I use the original axle with the Square option :
view here
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Old 03-28-2010, 02:58 AM   #18859
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Originally Posted by Airwave View Post
I bought two of them, use the first one... At the end of the first pack it was totally twisted and unusable...

I sell directly the second...

Now I use the original axle with the Square option :
view here
i use both stcok parts and ive never had a problem and im running a 5.5turn
but ive never been a fan of 3racing
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Old 03-28-2010, 11:33 AM   #18860
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goots View Post
Im looking for the theory behind the mounting positions. So 1 being the softest 5 being the hardest? or is it reverse? hmmm maybe im asking the wrong question....
1 is the stiffest setting, 5 is the softest...

Moving the lower shock position further outboard (towards the wheel) gives the wishbone less leverage on the shock which makes the suspension stiffer.

Moving the lower shock position further inboard (away from the wheel) gives the wishbone more leverage on the shock, which makes the suspension softer.

Obviously unless you move the upper shock position so that the angle of the shock stays the same you will also feel the effect this has....

More angle on the shock makes the suspension 'regressive', meaning it gets softer the further it travels

Less angle on the shock makes it more linear, so compared to a more angled shock, it will feel stiffer as the car rolls.


Hope this helps.
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Old 03-28-2010, 12:00 PM   #18861
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airwave View Post
I bought two of them, use the first one... At the end of the first pack it was totally twisted and unusable...

I sell directly the second...

Now I use the original axle with the Square option :
view here
do you have the part number(s) for the Square parts?
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Old 03-28-2010, 07:35 PM   #18862
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Hi.
I just finished putting together my new Cyclone TC (just the electronics missing) and noticed a potential problem. The steering turnbuckles touch the front arm mounts when near full lock. Is this normal with this car ?
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Old 03-28-2010, 08:01 PM   #18863
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Storm_PT View Post
Hi.
I just finished putting together my new Cyclone TC (just the electronics missing) and noticed a potential problem. The steering turnbuckles touch the front arm mounts when near full lock. Is this normal with this car ?
Mine did the same thing. However, if you look at most of the setup sheets from the top drivers (Korey, Hiro, Hara, etc.) they use smaller shims under the steering blocks...usually, 1 or 1.5 shims. This will help the turnbuckles clear the steering blocks.
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Old 03-28-2010, 08:09 PM   #18864
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Originally Posted by SpidarX View Post
Mine did the same thing. However, if you look at most of the setup sheets from the top drivers (Korey, Hiro, Hara, etc.) they use smaller shims under the steering blocks...usually, 1 or 1.5 shims. This will help the turnbuckles clear the steering blocks.
yeah mine does the same thing but once you set your electronics and chassis weights and set your ride height, the weight of the chassis will bring the chassis car down some and it shouldnt be a problem anymore
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Old 03-28-2010, 08:10 PM   #18865
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Originally Posted by Storm_PT View Post
Hi.
I just finished putting together my new Cyclone TC (just the electronics missing) and noticed a potential problem. The steering turnbuckles touch the front arm mounts when near full lock. Is this normal with this car ?
i meant to quote this one sorry
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Old 03-29-2010, 02:14 AM   #18866
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anybody have a good base set-up of cyclone TC using the Exotec-lipo chassis?

t-i-a
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Old 03-29-2010, 08:45 AM   #18867
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Originally Posted by SpidarX View Post
Mine did the same thing. However, if you look at most of the setup sheets from the top drivers (Korey, Hiro, Hara, etc.) they use smaller shims under the steering blocks...usually, 1 or 1.5 shims. This will help the turnbuckles clear the steering blocks.
Ok, thanks. Now to install the electronics. I really need to get a smaller spektrum receiver
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Old 03-29-2010, 04:45 PM   #18868
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Originally Posted by RevMaxx View Post
anybody have a good base set-up of cyclone TC using the Exotec-lipo chassis?

t-i-a
I posted a setup a little while ago for carpet (emerald city classic), so I'm not sure how it would work outside on asphalt. But you can always give it a shot.

-Korey
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Old 03-29-2010, 06:09 PM   #18869
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
I posted a setup a little while ago for carpet (emerald city classic), so I'm not sure how it would work outside on asphalt. But you can always give it a shot.

-Korey
thanks Korey... will give it a shot as soon as the chassis arrives.
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Old 03-29-2010, 08:58 PM   #18870
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How are the ceramic diff balls? Are they worth the upgrade?
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