Hot Bodies Cyclone
03-17-2010, 01:35 PM
As Hiro and Tommy had mentioned before, it gives the car a slightly lower front roll center. If you look at some off road cars (like the Team Associated B4) they have a similar adjustment on their car. This just balances out the roll center a little better.
For me, it just resulted in more steering overall. I would only run it with 1.5mm shims under the main suspension blocks. If you use 1.0mm under the suspension blocks, AND lower the steering knuckle, it makes the roll center way to low. The car became very inconsistent and hard to drive for me. So just run 1.5mm under the suspension blocks if you want to try the lowered steering knuckle.
-Korey
For me, it just resulted in more steering overall. I would only run it with 1.5mm shims under the main suspension blocks. If you use 1.0mm under the suspension blocks, AND lower the steering knuckle, it makes the roll center way to low. The car became very inconsistent and hard to drive for me. So just run 1.5mm under the suspension blocks if you want to try the lowered steering knuckle.
-Korey
03-17-2010, 03:11 PM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (55)
Suspension block shims
I've always been confused by the fact that the HPI Pro4 setup guide recommends increasing the height of the suspension block shims for low traction situations. The advice for the Cyclone seems to be just the opposite, even though the suspension geometry between the two cars is basically the same. Any thoughts??
03-17-2010, 03:19 PM
I've always been confused by the fact that the HPI Pro4 setup guide recommends increasing the height of the suspension block shims for low traction situations. The advice for the Cyclone seems to be just the opposite, even though the suspension geometry between the two cars is basically the same. Any thoughts??
"Move Down" for track that need more grip(on the car that is)
03-17-2010, 03:35 PM
I've always been confused by the fact that the HPI Pro4 setup guide recommends increasing the height of the suspension block shims for low traction situations. The advice for the Cyclone seems to be just the opposite, even though the suspension geometry between the two cars is basically the same. Any thoughts??
Lowering the roll center by lowering the suspension blocks let the car have more roll easier, This will generate more traction overall. However in some situation, raising up the roll center generates more traction too. Because of the rigidity effect for the roll, suspension gives more pressure to each tire and it sometimes gives better traction no matter how the suspension works.
They both are just different ways or theory i think?
03-18-2010, 07:54 AM
To further add to the confusion, if you are using xray knuckles and want to lower it .75 mm
then you would have to file .37 mm off the bottom and add it back at the top (that is, everything else being equal) .
Korey, which top deck are you using on your Exotec chassis ? TC 2.5 mm, lipo or original ?
03-18-2010, 08:30 AM
I'm using the upper deck that comes stock in the TC kit. I'm pretty sure they are 2mm thick though 
03-18-2010, 10:24 AM
Yes they are 2 mm. I'm not sure where I got 2.5 from .....
Another question, which Exotec chassis are you using, the one with the carbon battery 'fingers' or the one with the steel fingers ? The reason I ask is that I just got the carbon finger chassis and find that it is way more soft then the steel finger one. Its still 2mm but narrower and has more cut outs .... kinda a bummin' about that as I thought the original was a little soft.
Thanks for your time.
03-18-2010, 10:42 AM
Yes they are 2 mm. I'm not sure where I got 2.5 from .....
Another question, which Exotec chassis are you using, the one with the carbon battery 'fingers' or the one with the steel fingers ? The reason I ask is that I just got the carbon finger chassis and find that it is way more soft then the steel finger one. Its still 2mm but narrower and has more cut outs .... kinda a bummin' about that as I thought the original was a little soft.
Thanks for your time.
Another question, which Exotec chassis are you using, the one with the carbon battery 'fingers' or the one with the steel fingers ? The reason I ask is that I just got the carbon finger chassis and find that it is way more soft then the steel finger one. Its still 2mm but narrower and has more cut outs .... kinda a bummin' about that as I thought the original was a little soft.
Thanks for your time.
03-18-2010, 11:51 AM
Yes, it might sounds odd, but actually both are correct i believe.
Lowering the roll center by lowering the suspension blocks let the car have more roll easier, This will generate more traction overall. However in some situation, raising up the roll center generates more traction too. Because of the rigidity effect for the roll, suspension gives more pressure to each tire and it sometimes gives better traction no matter how the suspension works.
They both are just different ways or theory i think?
Lowering the roll center by lowering the suspension blocks let the car have more roll easier, This will generate more traction overall. However in some situation, raising up the roll center generates more traction too. Because of the rigidity effect for the roll, suspension gives more pressure to each tire and it sometimes gives better traction no matter how the suspension works.
They both are just different ways or theory i think?
Hi, Hiro...do you have picture that shows how much material needs to be removed from the FF suspension block to use it in place of the stock FR suspension block?
Thanks,
Oliver
03-18-2010, 12:54 PM
Yes they are 2 mm. I'm not sure where I got 2.5 from .....
Another question, which Exotec chassis are you using, the one with the carbon battery 'fingers' or the one with the steel fingers ? The reason I ask is that I just got the carbon finger chassis and find that it is way more soft then the steel finger one. Its still 2mm but narrower and has more cut outs .... kinda a bummin' about that as I thought the original was a little soft.
Thanks for your time.
Another question, which Exotec chassis are you using, the one with the carbon battery 'fingers' or the one with the steel fingers ? The reason I ask is that I just got the carbon finger chassis and find that it is way more soft then the steel finger one. Its still 2mm but narrower and has more cut outs .... kinda a bummin' about that as I thought the original was a little soft.
Thanks for your time.
-Korey
03-18-2010, 01:14 PM
I think I understand why you went with the full top deck and rear deck.
Thanks again.
03-19-2010, 12:54 AM
I just noticed i did only answer this through PM
1) why did u use older pro 4 arms? is it simply becos of the durability or becos of it being a better setup for steering?
I've went back and forth many times, always ending up with the old arms, look at pics of Stockers car and youll see he use them too
2) I notice u used standard hex at front, while ure using both FF and FR blocks at 1.5. Tat means ure running wider width at front compared to ur rear. Does this gives u better cornering since its larger track in Poland? If smaller track, will u stil use wider front or narrower front for better steering and reaction?
I dont have any thin hexes yet, so i havent tried them. Since steering is sufficient anyway i dont think i need them but ill try them
3) Lastly, are u using the pro 4 UJ which is slightly longer to accomodate the longer width when using the FF n FR blocks mod?
I use the standard TC axles, the axles are still pretty deep in the outdrives
I've went back and forth many times, always ending up with the old arms, look at pics of Stockers car and youll see he use them too
2) I notice u used standard hex at front, while ure using both FF and FR blocks at 1.5. Tat means ure running wider width at front compared to ur rear. Does this gives u better cornering since its larger track in Poland? If smaller track, will u stil use wider front or narrower front for better steering and reaction?
I dont have any thin hexes yet, so i havent tried them. Since steering is sufficient anyway i dont think i need them but ill try them
3) Lastly, are u using the pro 4 UJ which is slightly longer to accomodate the longer width when using the FF n FR blocks mod?
I use the standard TC axles, the axles are still pretty deep in the outdrives
03-19-2010, 01:32 AM
Thanks Tommy! 
03-19-2010, 06:49 AM
Tech Initiate
I’m sure this has been asked and answered before however with a thread as huge as this I don’t really have the time to go through it in its entirety.
I have recently got into RC racing and bought myself a second hand cyclone moore edition which I run in our local club’s 17.5t class. I’m using a Losi excelorin motor which is comparatively heavier than a lot of other motors on the market which means there is a fairly large imbalance of weight in the car. I’ve stuck the car on 4 matching scales and after a bit of fiddling I can make it balance left/right but I need the lipo sticking beyond the edge of the chassis, my question is are there any lipo holders that I can employ to position the lipo correctly?
I’ve seen the exotech chassis but its out of my price range at the moment as I’ve just spent a small fortune getting everything I need to start racing. I notice you can purchase the CF battery cups separately will they fit on a standard cyclone chassis with some drilling? Failing that are there any parts for other cars that I can use to achieve the same result?
Thanks in advance for any help!
I have recently got into RC racing and bought myself a second hand cyclone moore edition which I run in our local club’s 17.5t class. I’m using a Losi excelorin motor which is comparatively heavier than a lot of other motors on the market which means there is a fairly large imbalance of weight in the car. I’ve stuck the car on 4 matching scales and after a bit of fiddling I can make it balance left/right but I need the lipo sticking beyond the edge of the chassis, my question is are there any lipo holders that I can employ to position the lipo correctly?
I’ve seen the exotech chassis but its out of my price range at the moment as I’ve just spent a small fortune getting everything I need to start racing. I notice you can purchase the CF battery cups separately will they fit on a standard cyclone chassis with some drilling? Failing that are there any parts for other cars that I can use to achieve the same result?
Thanks in advance for any help!
03-19-2010, 07:39 AM
I’m sure this has been asked and answered before however with a thread as huge as this I don’t really have the time to go through it in its entirety.
I have recently got into RC racing and bought myself a second hand cyclone moore edition which I run in our local club’s 17.5t class. I’m using a Losi excelorin motor which is comparatively heavier than a lot of other motors on the market which means there is a fairly large imbalance of weight in the car. I’ve stuck the car on 4 matching scales and after a bit of fiddling I can make it balance left/right but I need the lipo sticking beyond the edge of the chassis, my question is are there any lipo holders that I can employ to position the lipo correctly?
I’ve seen the exotech chassis but its out of my price range at the moment as I’ve just spent a small fortune getting everything I need to start racing. I notice you can purchase the CF battery cups separately will they fit on a standard cyclone chassis with some drilling? Failing that are there any parts for other cars that I can use to achieve the same result?
Thanks in advance for any help!
I have recently got into RC racing and bought myself a second hand cyclone moore edition which I run in our local club’s 17.5t class. I’m using a Losi excelorin motor which is comparatively heavier than a lot of other motors on the market which means there is a fairly large imbalance of weight in the car. I’ve stuck the car on 4 matching scales and after a bit of fiddling I can make it balance left/right but I need the lipo sticking beyond the edge of the chassis, my question is are there any lipo holders that I can employ to position the lipo correctly?
I’ve seen the exotech chassis but its out of my price range at the moment as I’ve just spent a small fortune getting everything I need to start racing. I notice you can purchase the CF battery cups separately will they fit on a standard cyclone chassis with some drilling? Failing that are there any parts for other cars that I can use to achieve the same result?
Thanks in advance for any help!