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Old 03-17-2010, 11:23 AM   #18781
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Use a file or a dremel with a sanding drum to take .75mm off the bottom of the steering knuckle. Then put a shim on top of it like the picture Tommy posted shows.
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Old 03-17-2010, 11:39 AM   #18782
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Lowering the steering knuckle changes the roll center slightly. its a small change but its enough to notice it.
Hey Korey,what does this do in terms of handling?
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Old 03-17-2010, 11:45 AM   #18783
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As Hiro and Tommy had mentioned before, it gives the car a slightly lower front roll center. If you look at some off road cars (like the Team Associated B4) they have a similar adjustment on their car. This just balances out the roll center a little better.

For me, it just resulted in more steering overall. I would only run it with 1.5mm shims under the main suspension blocks. If you use 1.0mm under the suspension blocks, AND lower the steering knuckle, it makes the roll center way to low. The car became very inconsistent and hard to drive for me. So just run 1.5mm under the suspension blocks if you want to try the lowered steering knuckle.

-Korey
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Old 03-17-2010, 11:50 AM   #18784
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
As Hiro and Tommy had mentioned before, it gives the car a slightly lower front roll center. If you look at some off road cars (like the Team Associated B4) they have a similar adjustment on their car. This just balances out the roll center a little better.

For me, it just resulted in more steering overall. I would only run it with 1.5mm shims under the main suspension blocks. If you use 1.0mm under the suspension blocks, AND lower the steering knuckle, it makes the roll center way to low. The car became very inconsistent and hard to drive for me. So just run 1.5mm under the suspension blocks if you want to try the lowered steering knuckle.

-Korey
thank you
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Old 03-17-2010, 11:52 AM   #18785
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
For me, it just resulted in more steering overall. I would only run it with 1.5mm shims under the main suspension blocks. If you use 1.0mm under the suspension blocks, AND lower the steering knuckle, it makes the roll center way to low. The car became very inconsistent and hard to drive for me. So just run 1.5mm under the suspension blocks if you want to try the lowered steering knuckle.

-Korey
call it a newbie question (but i've never bother with shims under the suspension blocks since i run mainly on parking lot tracks), but i'm assuming its 1.5mm under the front and rear of the car?

i guess you could do this (much more painfully) with aluminum knuckles as well?
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Old 03-17-2010, 11:56 AM   #18786
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Just about everyone starts with 1.5mm under all the suspension blocks (FF, FR, RF, RR). It's just a good starting place that works well in almost every condition. Sometimes is more grip is needed, we drop it down to 1.0mm. I can't say that I've ever tried 0 shims under the suspension blocks though.

-Korey
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Old 03-17-2010, 01:27 PM   #18787
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Me and my team mate has run the blocks flat on the chassis sometimes if the grip is extremely low, that's the case when we run some of the regional series on non-permanent tracks.
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Old 03-17-2010, 01:35 PM   #18788
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
As Hiro and Tommy had mentioned before, it gives the car a slightly lower front roll center. If you look at some off road cars (like the Team Associated B4) they have a similar adjustment on their car. This just balances out the roll center a little better.

For me, it just resulted in more steering overall. I would only run it with 1.5mm shims under the main suspension blocks. If you use 1.0mm under the suspension blocks, AND lower the steering knuckle, it makes the roll center way to low. The car became very inconsistent and hard to drive for me. So just run 1.5mm under the suspension blocks if you want to try the lowered steering knuckle.

-Korey
Thanks for the info Korey
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Old 03-17-2010, 03:11 PM   #18789
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Default Suspension block shims

I've always been confused by the fact that the HPI Pro4 setup guide recommends increasing the height of the suspension block shims for low traction situations. The advice for the Cyclone seems to be just the opposite, even though the suspension geometry between the two cars is basically the same. Any thoughts??
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Old 03-17-2010, 03:19 PM   #18790
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I've always been confused by the fact that the HPI Pro4 setup guide recommends increasing the height of the suspension block shims for low traction situations. The advice for the Cyclone seems to be just the opposite, even though the suspension geometry between the two cars is basically the same. Any thoughts??
It's basically the same thing..just kinda lost in translation. "MOVE UP" for less traction surfaces=adding more spacers in the bottom for tracks that do not need more grip.
"Move Down" for track that need more grip(on the car that is)
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Old 03-17-2010, 03:35 PM   #18791
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I've always been confused by the fact that the HPI Pro4 setup guide recommends increasing the height of the suspension block shims for low traction situations. The advice for the Cyclone seems to be just the opposite, even though the suspension geometry between the two cars is basically the same. Any thoughts??
Yes, it might sounds odd, but actually both are correct i believe.

Lowering the roll center by lowering the suspension blocks let the car have more roll easier, This will generate more traction overall. However in some situation, raising up the roll center generates more traction too. Because of the rigidity effect for the roll, suspension gives more pressure to each tire and it sometimes gives better traction no matter how the suspension works.

They both are just different ways or theory i think?
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Old 03-18-2010, 07:54 AM   #18792
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I use xray spindles. They are stonger and they are .75mm shorter so no grinding. Use the forward most hole to duplicate the steering geometry.


Thanks for the set up sheets.
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
Use a file or a dremel with a sanding drum to take .75mm off the bottom of the steering knuckle. Then put a shim on top of it like the picture Tommy posted shows.


To further add to the confusion, if you are using xray knuckles and want to lower it .75 mm
then you would have to file .37 mm off the bottom and add it back at the top (that is, everything else being equal) .


Korey, which top deck are you using on your Exotec chassis ? TC 2.5 mm, lipo or original ?
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Old 03-18-2010, 08:30 AM   #18793
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I'm using the upper deck that comes stock in the TC kit. I'm pretty sure they are 2mm thick though
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Old 03-18-2010, 10:24 AM   #18794
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I'm using the upper deck that comes stock in the TC kit. I'm pretty sure they are 2mm thick though


Yes they are 2 mm. I'm not sure where I got 2.5 from .....

Another question, which Exotec chassis are you using, the one with the carbon battery 'fingers' or the one with the steel fingers ? The reason I ask is that I just got the carbon finger chassis and find that it is way more soft then the steel finger one. Its still 2mm but narrower and has more cut outs .... kinda a bummin' about that as I thought the original was a little soft.

Thanks for your time.
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Old 03-18-2010, 10:42 AM   #18795
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Yes they are 2 mm. I'm not sure where I got 2.5 from .....

Another question, which Exotec chassis are you using, the one with the carbon battery 'fingers' or the one with the steel fingers ? The reason I ask is that I just got the carbon finger chassis and find that it is way more soft then the steel finger one. Its still 2mm but narrower and has more cut outs .... kinda a bummin' about that as I thought the original was a little soft.

Thanks for your time.
We have #61286 2.5mm Solid Upper Deck, may be this is what you have?
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