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Old 03-15-2010, 11:03 PM   #18751
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Default TC front Arms vs. Old WCE arms

I have noticed, that new TC front arms ar very fragile. I have broken about 10 of it. After that I have switched to old cyclone/Pro 4 arms. Interesting thing that TC arm needs very small hit to be broken. We are racing in very narow and fast carpet track with wooden side walls so that's is my problem, because some times I hit these side walls. Interesting thing that all my broken arms where broken in the same place. It splits in 2 pieces and braking line goes stright from one side shock screw place to other side screw place.
Using old front arm I do not have this problem.
Maybe you know what are main differences between new and old arms? Does new type arms give more performance or I have just forget about this problem and use old ones?
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Old 03-15-2010, 11:25 PM   #18752
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Originally Posted by ramas3d View Post
I have noticed, that new TC front arms ar very fragile. I have broken about 10 of it. After that I have switched to old cyclone/Pro 4 arms. Interesting thing that TC arm needs very small hit to be broken. We are racing in very narow and fast carpet track with wooden side walls so that's is my problem, because some times I hit these side walls. Interesting thing that all my broken arms where broken in the same place. It splits in 2 pieces and braking line goes stright from one side shock screw place to other side screw place.
Using old front arm I do not have this problem.
Maybe you know what are main differences between new and old arms? Does new type arms give more performance or I have just forget about this problem and use old ones?
Just my 2 cents, new arms are indeed more fragile. I had broken many when i was racing in a track using wood partitions, just like what youve said, just a tiny lil bump on it, the arm breaks!

Older arms are indeed tougher. Under circumtances like these, i would just use old arms. You wouldnt want to keep changing arms in races dont u?

As far as performance is concerned, i do not feel any big changes swtiching from old to new arms. But i have notice the new arms mounts the knuckle a lil more forward. That affects the wheelbase and ackerman. Dont know if others could opined on this.
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Old 03-16-2010, 01:02 AM   #18753
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The TC arms are much lighter weight, and offer more shock mounting locations. So overall, I still think they have better performance, and tuning options. That all comes as a sacrifice of durability... So if you are having problems breaking arms, I would suggest sticking with the older style. They are pretty bullet proof.

-Korey
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Old 03-16-2010, 02:08 AM   #18754
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Is there any specific setup to use when using the Impreza type b body? med bite aspahlt track.
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Old 03-16-2010, 03:39 AM   #18755
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Originally Posted by Touring Jr. View Post
Hey guys, I asked a few days ago about solving a rear traction problem with my cyclone and I am working on the changes. Does anyone know what changes to the front diff might help rear traction or help stop the rear from overtaking the front? I am currently running a solid front drive. Would it be better to go to a ball diff or one way up front?
just a simple thing to try but put 1mm spacers in each wheel to widen the front a little!! this on low grip actually improved my lap times and not just the feel. i never go for a wider front end but in low grip where the rear won't sit quite right it can be better balanced. it also rotated better which i thought was odd. But basically it tamed the agrresive front end setup that i had on low grip!!
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Old 03-16-2010, 03:42 AM   #18756
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
The TC arms are much lighter weight, and offer more shock mounting locations. So overall, I still think they have better performance, and tuning options. That all comes as a sacrifice of durability... So if you are having problems breaking arms, I would suggest sticking with the older style. They are pretty bullet proof.

-Korey
this is a funny thing because in australia i always get more performance out of the plastic original arms not the carbon so i stick to these. they are the high traction arm set. Also don't know of anyone ever braking these!!
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Old 03-16-2010, 05:19 AM   #18757
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Originally Posted by Touring Jr. View Post
Hey guys, I asked a few days ago about solving a rear traction problem with my cyclone and I am working on the changes. Does anyone know what changes to the front diff might help rear traction or help stop the rear from overtaking the front? I am currently running a solid front drive. Would it be better to go to a ball diff or one way up front?
I would try a cut rear topdeck
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Old 03-16-2010, 05:37 AM   #18758
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Originally Posted by Tommy Bergfeldt View Post
I would try a cut rear topdeck
I confirm that, cut rear deck, you get a lot of traction!
Tommy, Exotek Chassis, which has merits? compared to the original TC.

thanks
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Old 03-16-2010, 07:34 AM   #18759
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Originally Posted by Luppi Stefano View Post
I confirm that, cut rear deck, you get a lot of traction!
Tommy, Exotek Chassis, which has merits? compared to the original TC.

thanks
I like the chassis a lot, feels a bit more consistent in every condition.
I also usually run with un-cut top decks since i feel it gets inconsistent (especially when cutting the front deck). In Poland though i cut the rear deck to get the rear stable since the track was HUGE.

Me and M Vassmar (T3) has had some great racing this season in our regional series but i've always been a couple of seconds behind both on high and low traction. This weekend i took TQ with 0.2 seconds and the car feels a lot more consistent than before. In the finals i had the win until a lapped car spun out on front, we crashed and i had to settle for second.

Another tip i have for you all is something i got told by Hiro, is lowering the front knuckle a bit, i lowered it 0.7 mm.

I went back and forth a lot with this in Poland, i always ended with it lowered since the car felt alot more consistent in the sweepers making it traction roll less.
I also run 2 degree blocks in front, my chassis with steel holders did not have the RF holes drilled so i did them in a mill at work.
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Last edited by Tommy Bergfeldt; 03-16-2010 at 01:41 PM.
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Old 03-16-2010, 08:08 AM   #18760
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Touring Jr. View Post
Hey guys, I asked a few days ago about solving a rear traction problem with my cyclone and I am working on the changes. Does anyone know what changes to the front diff might help rear traction or help stop the rear from overtaking the front? I am currently running a solid front drive. Would it be better to go to a ball diff or one way up front?
If you have AME (Andy Moore Edition) rear shock tower, you might want to try it with current TC bulkheads. This combo gives you more overall traction in the rear. I gave this tip to Korey last week and he also said it worked well.

AME rear shock tower has 2mm higher shock mounting holes so when you put shocks on the car, piston position will be lowered by 2mm. Lower piston position means that more oil volume above the piston (more pack). It will generate more traction overall. It might be cause of the push problem next, but like Tommy suggested, you can add extra steering by lowering the spindles.

Thanks,
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Old 03-16-2010, 09:29 AM   #18761
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Originally Posted by Hi-LowBlow View Post
For those who run in RCGT series with the Cyclone TC, here is a setup sheet for it.
I have run the setup at the west coast rc race way (indoor high bite track) last weekend and worked very well. I thought it would be good to share with everybody who loves RCGT.
Good run Hiro !! I cant believe I choked with a lead...oh well, The guys told me that you would of caught me anyways your car was faster. I hope you run the series.
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Old 03-16-2010, 10:10 AM   #18762
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Originally Posted by decibels View Post
this is a funny thing because in australia i always get more performance out of the plastic original arms not the carbon so i stick to these. they are the high traction arm set. Also don't know of anyone ever braking these!!
That extra flex is giving you some extra grip. Whenever I've run these... my car feels awesome but it's slower on the clock. Thats just me though

As Hiro said, I have some rear grip problems with this car on carpet... So I tried the AME rear shock tower. That thing is a godsend... totally transformed my car. The rear end was so much more stable. Since it's taller, it extends the shock more. That puts the piston more at the bottom of the shock itself, creating more pack. That pack keeps the weight in the rear from just flopping all over the place... so it's much more stable in those really quick transitions.

I also have tried the lowered steering knuckle. It's supposed to balance out the static roll center a little better. Try it with 1.5mm under the front suspension blocks. It works very well when combined with the AME rear tower. It feels like more grip overall when the two of these are combined.

-Korey
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Old 03-16-2010, 10:18 AM   #18763
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tommy Bergfeldt View Post
I like the chassis a lot, feels a bit more consistent in every condition.
I also usually run with un-cut top decks since i feel it gets inconsistent (especially when cutting the front deck). In Poland though i cut the rear deck to get the rear stable since the track was HUGE.
I agree. I really like the Exotek chassis. I also ran full (uncut) upper and mid decks. Whenever I ran them cut, the car felt really weird and inconsistent. I really dig it because I felt like my car had more overall traction, and it was more predictable to drive. Plus it balanced out spot on and kept my batteries securely in place just in case I have an unexpected "incident"

-Korey
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Old 03-16-2010, 11:03 AM   #18764
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tommy Bergfeldt View Post
I like the chassis a lot, feels a bit more consistent in every condition.
I also usually run with un-cut top decks since i feel it gets inconsistent (especially when cutting the front deck). In Poland though i cut the rear deck to get the rear stable since the track was HUGE.

Me and M Vassmar (T3) has had some great racing this season in our regional series but i've always been a couple of seconds behind both on high and low traction. This weekend i took TQ with 0.2 seconds and the car feels a lot more consistent than before. In the finals i had the win until a lapped car spun out on front, we crashed and i had to settle for second.

Another tip i have for you all is something i got told by Hiro, is lowering the front knuckle a bit, i lowered it 0.7 mm.

I went back and forth a lot with this in Poland, i always ended with it lowered since the car felt alot more consistent in the sweepers making it traction less.
I also run 2 degree blocks in front, my chassis with steel holders did not have the RF holes drilled so i did them in a mill at work.
thanks tommy!
view your car in the photos on RedRC, ETS site!
and I saw the mod FF on your chassis!
Unfortunately, this Sunday I had a crash with another rider, and broke exotek chassis, in the hole Rear/Right of diff bukehead!
and ruined the seat pivot ball of RF + ruined the seat pivot ball of RR 3░
Disaster!
I now look if you can adjust!
I'm really pissed off this thing!
-
I removed the original lipo battery brace, and I installed this(battery brace TOP Racing + torsional control HB for Spacer), I found myself very well, balanced car and weight only 1343g


see if you can help this configuration
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Old 03-16-2010, 11:38 AM   #18765
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