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Old 03-10-2010, 02:03 AM   #18691
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Originally Posted by madwestmo View Post
hi , ive always had similiar problems , both same with a 13.5 and cyclone tc on low grip carpet with 24 tyres and no additive

would also apprieciate some advice on the loose back end
try 3 degree rear toe in, or try a thicker Front sway bar, course you could always soften the rear a bit, adjust the roll centres play with the droop, it all depends on when the back is loose and how? Is it under braking, or back on power? Few more bits of info would help everybody to help you mate
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Old 03-10-2010, 03:40 AM   #18692
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Originally Posted by Touring Jr. View Post
Thanks. Yes I have tried several combinations, none in front 1/2 in front. Doesnt seem to make much difference.
I had a similar issue with my cyclone and Vintage tires...I did the whole dealio - but what helped cure mine was to stand the front shocks up more (move the shock mounts to a more outter hole) and lay down the rear shocks more (move the mounts to a more inner hole)

this will transfer more weight to the rear of the chassis and should help with rear traction

i guess I either missed this or no one asked, but when are you 'drifting' when you are turning at speed or accelerating or what?
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Old 03-10-2010, 06:41 AM   #18693
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Thanks guys for the replies. The problem is mostly under accelaration. I am running Exotek chassis, rear cut deck, silver-gold spring 2 hole pistons all around 50w frt and 40wt rr. Considering switching to blue pink spring combo. Only front sway bar as are all others in the club with all brands.

RLMW, Thanks I am in the Glen Ellyn Wheaton Area and our club uses the local jr high school gym every other weekend, sponsored by the school. I think it may be the only school sponsored RC club in the country. You are welcome to join us. It is a nice group of people and 2 teachers started this for the kids 20 years ago. Had my Son not joined I would not even now this world existed. Im hooked!
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Old 03-10-2010, 06:59 AM   #18694
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Originally Posted by Touring Jr. View Post
Thanks bohar I will look into the differences. On another note I have read that more rear toe in will increase rear traction can any one validate this? This car handles almost like a drift car the way the rear end snaps out under power. Currently I also race an old Xray T1 and I hate to say this but it handles much better than the Hara and I only paid a 100 bucks for it. There has to be something up. I know these are good cars, just cant get it working.
I had a similar issue last Sunday
took me ALL day to get it right

Here are a few suggestions
1. check your droop I usually start with 2mm above ride height all around.
2. check your tires make SURE that they are glued to the rim ALL around
3. Check your Diff make sure it's built properly
-- If youre not sure here's how I do it

--Korey gave me this tip and has worked ever since
1.) make sure it's SUPER clean. Clean everything with motor spray, even brand new parts.

2.)In the thrust bearing I think the manual says to use 7 thrust balls, I use 8. I figure it would last longer that way as it does with the normal diff balls (more is better). Pack the thrust bearing with Associated black grease, or Much More Black grease.

3.) Best diff grease ever is made by Schumacher. It's really thick.. almost like a wax. Just put a little bit in each hole in the pulley for the diff balls.

4.) Use HB ceramic diff balls... period. They are simply awesome.

5.) Break is important. I start with the diff very very loose... basically just so the diff plates have a very slight amount of tension on the diff balls. What I do is hold one outdrive and the pulley in one hand, and twist the other outdrive. I do 10 clockwise twists, then 10 counter clockwise. After that I flip the diff around and repeat on the other side. Tighten the diff a tick more, and repeat the process again. Once the diff is difficult to slip, I just leave it there and then adjust it while it's in the car to the desired tightness.

This is "slipping" the diff, but it helps break in the diff plates so they are concave to the diff balls. It results in more grip, and less tension is needed to get a properly diff. The result is a very free, non slipping diff. Sean Williams (teammate) and Hiro Kasuya (R&D specialist) now build their diffs this way after watching me do it at the Reedy Race.
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Old 03-10-2010, 07:17 AM   #18695
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Originally Posted by Touring Jr. View Post
Hey guys ,new to this thread but have been following it. I have had a Hara cyclone for little over a year now and racing in a club with very low grip carpet. Just cant get the back end to stay put. Running similar to Moore 2008 carpet wars set-up, moore 24 compound tires and 13.5 brushless. Any Ideas?
HI I tried this set-up at my club and had similar issues, as did one of the top drivers, are you using the tamiya springs? if so I find the fronts to soft- try HB gold or white.

Reduce the rear droop so that the weight does not transfer to the front and go down to 35wt rear oil.

After doing this my car was super quick, its just a few small changes but for me worked great- I ve also seen drivers not use the rear sway bar so that may be worth trying.

mi
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Old 03-10-2010, 07:23 AM   #18696
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I was running the aluminum diff in the rear and had problems with the blades bottoming out on the diff nut. I switched to the plastic diff halves because they don't require blades and found I had way more rear grip. A smooth diff is critical, do everything that's been said above and also make sure you sand the diff rings FLAT !

Last edited by jag88; 03-10-2010 at 08:18 AM.
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Old 03-10-2010, 07:58 AM   #18697
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Thanks alot guys,I will work on the diff. and slowly incorporate the other changes and post how it worked out.

TJ
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Old 03-10-2010, 08:08 AM   #18698
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Originally Posted by trickd122 View Post
Sean Williams (teammate) and Hiro Kasuya (R&D specialist) now build their diffs this way after watching me do it at the Reedy Race.
Humm, i have never seen Korey's diff building method.
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Old 03-10-2010, 08:33 AM   #18699
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Hi I have posted many pictures of my baby on here and have had many approving looks, but I have decided that she needs a new, loving home and someone who can lavish the time on her.

She started life as a Cyclone Sport, but she has been added to over the last 6 months and she now stands here fully modded and ready to face a new owner.

List of Parts added to her as follows:

3 Racing Chassis with Battery retaining Lugs (LiPo's have NEVER come out.
3 Racing Silver SSG Top deck,
3 Racing Silver SSG Shock towers
3 Racing Silver SSG mid deck and
3 Racing Silver SSG bumper brace
Hara (Blue) edition Steering arm
HPI Pro 4 Toe blocks Front and rear
3 Racing Alloy FR & RF hinge hangers
Pro 4 Wishbones
Pro 4 Purple Alloy MIP CVD's Front and rear
3 Racing Sway bar sets front and rear
3 Racing Purple Alloy Upper bulkheads front and rear
3 Racing Purple alloy Lower Bulkheads Front and rear
3 Racing Purple Alloy Servo mounts
3 Racing Purple Alloy Diff bearing holders Front and rear
3 Racing Purple Alloy Spool with custom made 40 Tooth (Yokomo) pulley
3 Racing Purple Alloy battery side rear mount with
HB Purple alloy Motor Mount
3 Racing Purple Alloy Layshaft with Delrin 17 Tooth Pulleys
Modified Front and rear belts (Same as TC)
3 Racing Purple Alloy Motor Heatsink and Fan
Custom Built Hybrid rear diff, (40 Tooth) with Ceramic Diff balls.
HPI Pro 4 Purple Alloy crewdown Shocks with
3 Racing Purple Alloy shock caps.
HPI Pro 3 Purple Alloy (Wide) Rear Wheel Hexes
HPI Pro 4 Purple Alloy (Narrow) Front Wheel hexes.
HPI Pro 4 Titanium Camber Links

The 3 Racing Chassis is pre drilled for the FR Conversion discussed elsewhere and the car drives like a dream, has never been anywhere other than carpet and has been lovingly built up over the last 6 months or so, there are some odds and bits of spares but TBH I have hardly ever broken anything on her in all my time with her.

She does at this time have a 'homemade' LiPo Holder on her as an experiment with balance, this can be included but she looks much better without it.

Am laying this down for Offers only, please PM them and I will take a look as it has cost me over 400 ($570) to get her this far and I am NOT desperate to sell her as she is my current 'in use' car.

the car is a rolling chassis with NO electronics or shell, but she will, I am sure, make someone very very happy indeed.








Thanks for Looking.
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Old 03-10-2010, 10:10 AM   #18700
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Originally Posted by Hi-LowBlow View Post
Humm, i have never seen Korey's diff building method.
I know Sean did it that way at the reedy race after he saw me do that. I think you just commented at reedy you would try that sometime lol.

-Korey
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Old 03-10-2010, 12:45 PM   #18701
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Some pictures of mine...

Left profile

Gear details

Not really efficient but so cool!

Exotek powaaaa!

All credits go to www.overrc.com

NB: Can't publish the pictures directly, they were too HUGE!
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Old 03-11-2010, 12:02 AM   #18702
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Default Thick frame TC

Hi guys, I have a question for you, what is the right thickness of the frame TC?
I have two frames and are of different thickness, one is 2.4 mm and the other 2.6 mm.
There should be 2.5mm?
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Old 03-11-2010, 01:19 AM   #18703
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Thats interesting, but not entirely unheard of. Sometimes just from manufacturing tolerances from the suppliers, the thicknesses of the chassis might vary batch to batch. Usually the general specification is 2.5mm, but I wouldn't worry about it much. As long as it's not tweaked, you'll be fine with either one.

On that note, I have to say I really like the Exotek chassis so far. The car was super balanced. Before I've always felt that moving the battery way out to balance the car still made the car feel unbalanced on the track. The combination of the placement of the battery, the weight hooks, and the lack of cutouts make the chassis feel very balanced. Overall, and awesome product upon initial testing. I'll continue to run it here in our last round of the NWIC carpet series.

-Korey
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Old 03-11-2010, 01:41 AM   #18704
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
Thats interesting, but not entirely unheard of. Sometimes just from manufacturing tolerances from the suppliers, the thicknesses of the chassis might vary batch to batch. Usually the general specification is 2.5mm, but I wouldn't worry about it much. As long as it's not tweaked, you'll be fine with either one.

On that note, I have to say I really like the Exotek chassis so far. The car was super balanced. Before I've always felt that moving the battery way out to balance the car still made the car feel unbalanced on the track. The combination of the placement of the battery, the weight hooks, and the lack of cutouts make the chassis feel very balanced. Overall, and awesome product upon initial testing. I'll continue to run it here in our last round of the NWIC carpet series.

-Korey
Thanks Korey, maybe I will be purchasing the chassis Exotek has a good balance but unfortunately his weight with his system of block cells (60 grams) is very high, in Italy the minimum weight is 1350 grams, and the only way to save weight and balance is to remove the ballast and remove the batteries out.
At the moment I only have two chassis TC (one new) and now I will try to have these waiting for the new model, hoping it arrives soon ...
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Old 03-11-2010, 02:08 AM   #18705
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Originally Posted by AGNO View Post
Thanks Korey, maybe I will be purchasing the chassis Exotek has a good balance but unfortunately his weight with his system of block cells (60 grams) is very high, in Italy the minimum weight is 1350 grams, and the only way to save weight and balance is to remove the ballast and remove the batteries out.
At the moment I only have two chassis TC (one new) and now I will try to have these waiting for the new model, hoping it arrives soon ...
Did you know that Exotek also makes a chassis kit with the Europeans in mind? Instead of the stainless steel battery retainers, it's all carbon fiber. I'm not sure if he positioned them any different, but you would still get the other benefits of the chassis plate.

http://www41.instantestore.net/merchant10762/pd-hbx.cfm

-Korey
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