RAL

iTrader: (67)

Are people using the 100 tooth spur included in the kit or are they mostly using a 108??

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

for what kind of motor?

on my TC, i'm running a 101 - becuase I didn't have any more 100t spurs..and on my other cyclone, i'm running a 100t...

when i was running 13.5 - i actually ran a 96t spur

i think its all going to depend on motor, speedo and layout - so not sure if you're gonna see a 'general' spur choice anymore...i think its going to be whatever works to make a target FDR

gixer

Huge thanks guys.


I've had a notification enabled for when those hard case Turnigys are back in stock again, for that price i'll happily try a few.


After talking about it here last night though i decided to take another run getting me soft packs to fit.


Just like i was advised i was able to move the leads, the reroute and tape them to the side of the packs.
This has enabled me to turn the packs around and have the power cable run down the middle of the chassis, but still not interfere with the servo mech or the belt.


A mate has agree'd to buy me soft packs off me for the price i paid (he's still saving shipping costs) so as soon as HC get the hard packs back in stock i'll try those.


Thanks again for your help and advice guys, much appriciated.



Cheers
Mark

warnos

iTrader: (11)

Anyone know if the Hara spec Pro 4 Shocks are as good or better then the standard cylcone shocks??

They look like the coated Tc spec shocks.. but with hexes.

Wanted to put them on for the hex top and bottom screws but if they don't perform as good then I won't use them..

Cheers

RAL

iTrader: (67)

13.5, Thanks for the input.

carcrazy699

iTrader: (49)

hey guys im new to the onroad scene and i just went out and got a cyclone s. when i saw this thread i was like DAMN!!! thats alot of pages lol. so instead of hurting my eyes and head over reading all off it i wanted to ask afew questions.

i am going to be running a 10.5 motor and a 17.5 motor and maybe a 21.5 what kind of gearing do you guys recomend for this car? im used to nitro so i have no idea when it comes to these cars where to start.

also what would be a good first upgrade? i took the car out today with the 21.5 with a 44t pinion on it and it seemed slow but handled great in stock form. right now i have the stock springs on it but filled it with 40wt oil all around.

thanks for any advise!

FrankH

Does anyone have a picture on the FR Modification ? I really can't picture how the belt will have enough room.


Just changed my Exotek Chassis to a Prototype Carbotec 2,5mm Chassis. Similar Layout like Exotek but with some difference for the Lipo and prepaired for Yokomo steering. Works pretty well. Next step will be the long Topdeck and I want to try the FR Block.

Would be great if someone could post a picture

Tommy Bergfeldt

Ill try to upload some photos of mine tonight, i dremeled the underside of the FR block enough to clear the belt with a couple of tenths..

jag88

iTrader: (1)

Does Carbotec have a web site ?
Would like to see more info.
Thanks.

Tommy Bergfeldt

FrankH

Tommy,
Thanks a Lot for the Pictures !

I see you drilled your holes a little " forward" compared to the Standard Block. I just drilled mine the same way to compensate the difference in the Blocks.

Seems like it is pretty tight, especiall with my current setup running 0.75 under the Blocks.

Well, I will modify my 1,5 Block tonight and give it the first test tomorrow.

About the Carbotec Chassis. They are not really a RC Parts Manufacturer , they produce all kinds of fibre.
A Friend designed several Chassis for RC Cars. He provides the CAD layout and Carbotec produces the chassis.

Goal was to get a good Lipo layout, good balance and to reach the 1350 gramm weight limit.

I will make some pictures. Its a prototype, maybe there will be a complete kit with Long Top Deck, modified Engine mount and modified Bulkheads for "Tamiya style" steering as well as holes for the FR mod at a later point.

RLMW VQ

iTrader: (11)

what bit are you guys using to do the mod 90deg 3mm. countersink? or something eles.

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

I use a 3mm drill bit to drill the hole, then I load the drill press up with a 90 deg countersink without unclamping the chassis from the table. It ensures it's centered on the hole just drilled.

my 90 deg counter sink is a cobalt steel, ti nitride coated 90 deg countersink with a 3/8 overall dia. I just go deep enough until the screw sits flush with the chassis.

-Korey

Aqualoki

Hey, ive tried searching, but struggling to find the info i need, i just bought a cyclone TC after 5 years away from racing. Im totally lost now when it comes to setups. As of right now everything on the car is standard, as it suggests in the manual.

I ran it last night and found it to have very little front end grip, understeering quite badly on fast corners. Entry seemed okay, mid and exit of corners it was struggling. No oversteer at all. (Sorex 28's, carpet)

But really i need help on the whole setup of the car, the basics if you will. So i have a few questions, if someone very knowledgable on the TC could help please.

What springs are a good starting point?
How do i get more overall front end grip?
More Mid corner grip?
Better exit speed?
Is the anything major i should change from the standard car/setup?
What are the best things to change to affect handling?
My lipo cells, touch the upper deck holder, does this affect handling?

i am pretty much gonna copy a HB carpet setup, but that doesnt help me on a race night and i dont know what to change to make a difference.

Thanks for any help.

vlozity

iTrader: (7)

i cant seem to find info on the TC-X ... please link me?

tia!