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Old 02-16-2010, 10:32 PM   #18541
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Hi

Guy's i'm after a bit more corner speed on my cyclone TC ( what should i change )

My car is set up the same as in the manual (but with these changes = 35w in front 30w in rear & smaller rear sway bar )

Any hints & tips welcome .

Thanks
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Old 02-16-2010, 11:53 PM   #18542
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gixer View Post
Any advice much appreciated.
My Turnigy batteries were $27 though, so i don't think i can find a chassis for that amount.

Plus for a decent session i really need at least 2 if not 3 batteries as there is no charging facilities.


I've just measured up and it looked like on the max length settings my LiPo's will fit.
So with this in mind i'm going to cut back some of the protective coating and see about ideally repositioning the powre wires, or fitting slight more flexible ones.

That way i may be able to turn the batteries over and avoid contact with the steering shaft, Servo and drive belt.


Fingers crossed.
i believe what trickd122 meant is that any new designed 'lipo chassis' for the Cyclone will be based on a hardcased lipo pack - be it ROAR spec'ed or IFMAR-spec'ed dimensions - not really one of the soft-packed lipo that you are running....

i understand the price point on the pack is very appealing versus the price of a hardcased lipo...but there are other cheap hardcased options - not only will they fit your chassis better, but they will provide some added protection to your chassis and electronic equipment in the event of a swelling cell or something...but that's a whole different arguement and has no place here (the hardcase vs softcase lipo packs)

did you try reversing your pack to get it to fit in better? the problem you are having is where the wires come out of the wrap, not the pack design itself...I have a feeling if you reverse the pack (ie, put the wires/connector near the front) it will fit the chassis better - but that's just my opinion...

the other alternative is to look into a different configured pack...or move the wiring like you mentioned already...but i really thing flipping ends is your best option
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Old 02-17-2010, 12:42 AM   #18543
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There is cheap hardcase packs at Hobbyking, for example these two:
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...idProduct=9966
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...dProduct=10098

For further information, i tried the FR block mod yesterday and i never thought it would do such a difference. I ran 1.5 FR and 2.5 FF since i don't have any 2.0 blocks.. The front felt much more flat and the car is more forgiving without compromising corner speed, i've ordered thin wheel hexes to gain a bit more steering
The chassie scrub almost disasppeared also, when running stock and 2.5 degree blocks i had a lot of rubber on the chassie.
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Old 02-17-2010, 06:33 AM   #18544
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Originally Posted by Sparx View Post
For further information, i tried the FR block mod yesterday and i never thought it would do such a difference. I ran 1.5 FR and 2.5 FF since i don't have any 2.0 blocks.. The front felt much more flat and the car is more forgiving without compromising corner speed, i've ordered thin wheel hexes to gain a bit more steering
The chassie scrub almost disasppeared also, when running stock and 2.5 degree blocks i had a lot of rubber on the chassie.
So this setup still gives arm sweep? So the Idea then is to widen the front
I was also under the impression that the blocks had to be matching eg 1.5FR 1.5 FF
By felt more flat what exactly does this describe?
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Old 02-17-2010, 09:20 AM   #18545
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The biggest part of it is widening the front from the hinge pin. This does a few things like lengthen the camber link, and changes how the suspension reacts overall. Just makes the car easier to drive and more consistent overall, specially in bumps and such. It allows the use of a softer spring, while the front end still stays very flat (not rolling as much) and consistent. Its different than just adding spacers to the wheel hex.

-Korey
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Old 02-17-2010, 11:22 AM   #18546
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
The biggest part of it is widening the front from the hinge pin. This does a few things like lengthen the camber link, and changes how the suspension reacts overall. Just makes the car easier to drive and more consistent overall, specially in bumps and such. It allows the use of a softer spring, while the front end still stays very flat (not rolling as much) and consistent. Its different than just adding spacers to the wheel hex.

-Korey
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Old 02-17-2010, 12:00 PM   #18547
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Originally Posted by trickd122 View Post
So this setup still gives arm sweep? So the Idea then is to widen the front
I was also under the impression that the blocks had to be matching eg 1.5FR 1.5 FF
By felt more flat what exactly does this describe?
It doesn't have to be the same blocks FF and FR. If you want maximum steering, you should use 3.0deg for FF (it still about 2.0deg inboard angle with using 1.5deg FR)

But the same block FF and FR combo (straight hinge pins) gives you linear feel of steering. (No progressive caster change)
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Old 02-17-2010, 12:11 PM   #18548
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Are people using the 100 tooth spur included in the kit or are they mostly using a 108??
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Old 02-17-2010, 12:44 PM   #18549
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Are people using the 100 tooth spur included in the kit or are they mostly using a 108??
for what kind of motor?

on my TC, i'm running a 101 - becuase I didn't have any more 100t spurs..and on my other cyclone, i'm running a 100t...

when i was running 13.5 - i actually ran a 96t spur

i think its all going to depend on motor, speedo and layout - so not sure if you're gonna see a 'general' spur choice anymore...i think its going to be whatever works to make a target FDR
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Old 02-17-2010, 02:10 PM   #18550
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Huge thanks guys.


I've had a notification enabled for when those hard case Turnigys are back in stock again, for that price i'll happily try a few.


After talking about it here last night though i decided to take another run getting me soft packs to fit.


Just like i was advised i was able to move the leads, the reroute and tape them to the side of the packs.
This has enabled me to turn the packs around and have the power cable run down the middle of the chassis, but still not interfere with the servo mech or the belt.


A mate has agree'd to buy me soft packs off me for the price i paid (he's still saving shipping costs) so as soon as HC get the hard packs back in stock i'll try those.


Thanks again for your help and advice guys, much appriciated.



Cheers
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Old 02-17-2010, 02:49 PM   #18551
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Default Hara Pro 4 Shocks

Anyone know if the Hara spec Pro 4 Shocks are as good or better then the standard cylcone shocks??

They look like the coated Tc spec shocks.. but with hexes.

Wanted to put them on for the hex top and bottom screws but if they don't perform as good then I won't use them..

Cheers
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Old 02-17-2010, 03:40 PM   #18552
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Quote:
Originally Posted by k_bojar View Post
for what kind of motor?

on my TC, i'm running a 101 - becuase I didn't have any more 100t spurs..and on my other cyclone, i'm running a 100t...

when i was running 13.5 - i actually ran a 96t spur

i think its all going to depend on motor, speedo and layout - so not sure if you're gonna see a 'general' spur choice anymore...i think its going to be whatever works to make a target FDR
13.5, Thanks for the input.
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Old 02-17-2010, 07:09 PM   #18553
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hey guys im new to the onroad scene and i just went out and got a cyclone s. when i saw this thread i was like DAMN!!! thats alot of pages lol. so instead of hurting my eyes and head over reading all off it i wanted to ask afew questions.

i am going to be running a 10.5 motor and a 17.5 motor and maybe a 21.5 what kind of gearing do you guys recomend for this car? im used to nitro so i have no idea when it comes to these cars where to start.

also what would be a good first upgrade? i took the car out today with the 21.5 with a 44t pinion on it and it seemed slow but handled great in stock form. right now i have the stock springs on it but filled it with 40wt oil all around.

thanks for any advise!
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Old 02-18-2010, 03:33 AM   #18554
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Does anyone have a picture on the FR Modification ? I really can't picture how the belt will have enough room.


Just changed my Exotek Chassis to a Prototype Carbotec 2,5mm Chassis. Similar Layout like Exotek but with some difference for the Lipo and prepaired for Yokomo steering. Works pretty well. Next step will be the long Topdeck and I want to try the FR Block.

Would be great if someone could post a picture

Last edited by FrankH; 02-18-2010 at 03:33 AM. Reason: Typing error
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Old 02-18-2010, 05:22 AM   #18555
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Ill try to upload some photos of mine tonight, i dremeled the underside of the FR block enough to clear the belt with a couple of tenths..
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