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Old 02-16-2010, 07:22 AM   #18526
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Default Lowest mounting hole

What is the lowest hole I can mount the body at while meeting the min. body height. Body Mazda 6 speed. example counting from the bottom how many hole to the pin example 7 holes front 4 holes rear.
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Old 02-16-2010, 10:39 AM   #18527
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Originally Posted by goots View Post
Front
pink springs
40wt AE oil
4 position on front tower Try #3 on the tower
outside hole on front pro4 arm
1.4 front sway bar
1.5 front block Try 2.5 deg block it should give you more initial turn in better
droop 2mm on blocks
1.0mm under all front suspension blocks. Go up to 1.5mm to get quicker responce
4mm ackerm
3mm spacer under front camber tie rod Try start with 2.0mm
2 of camber
5.5mm ride height If the track is not bumpy, try 4.5-5.0mm

Rear
silver springs
40wt AE oil
#2 pistons 1.1mm 3 holes would work better if you want the car aggresive
4 on the shock tower
middle hole on old pro 4 arm
1.2 rear sway bar
3.0 rear block
droop 3-3.5mm
1.5 mm shims under all suspension blocks.
rear hub spacers 0.75 in front 2.0 in rear change it to 2.0/front, 0.75/rear
2mm spacer under rear camber tie rod Try 1.5mm or stay with 2.0mm and then go #3 hole on tower.
arms all the way back (spacers in front of arms) Should be 2.0mm in front of arm, 0.75 behind of arm.
2 degrees of camber
6mm ride height


the car felt much more reactive at the beginning of a corner, much more steering. But im still suffering from a little on-power understeer at the mid and exit of the corners. Any fix for this.
Hi goots,

Good to hear that the car had much more steering compare to the previous setup. As for adding more on-power steering (i consider it's more like mid through exit corner better), i would like to know how you changed the rear shock position and the inner camber link height before i make further suggestion. If you still on the #4 hole w/2.0mm inner camber height, i suggest to go inner holes on the rear shock tower #3 (still 2.0mm inner camber height). This change should help on the mid-exit push problem.

I would also try the same rear shock position #4 on the tower with 1.5-1.0mm inner camber link height with blue springs.

Hope it helps a bit.
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Old 02-16-2010, 11:15 AM   #18528
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Default battery clearance

I have a previous version of cyclone TC (Hara or Moore Speed version), I am wondering what kind of 5000 mah lipo pack I can use without any modification or buying conversion kit. I noticed that some packs with hump are generally shorter in height (without hump), so I MAY be able to use them (like ProTek, Team power, IP)
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Old 02-16-2010, 12:28 PM   #18529
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I have a Surikarn and have been using 2 different Lipo's.
The SMC4100 I have slots right in.
I also have a GP4000 which I had to grind 1/2mm off the underside of the ali bulkhead to fit it (has humps under it that fit into the battery slots.
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Old 02-16-2010, 12:56 PM   #18530
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Originally Posted by Hi-LowBlow View Post
Hi goots,

Good to hear that the car had much more steering compare to the previous setup. As for adding more on-power steering (i consider it's more like mid through exit corner better), i would like to know how you changed the rear shock position and the inner camber link height before i make further suggestion. If you still on the #4 hole w/2.0mm inner camber height, i suggest to go inner holes on the rear shock tower #3 (still 2.0mm inner camber height). This change should help on the mid-exit push problem.

I would also try the same rear shock position #4 on the tower with 1.5-1.0mm inner camber link height with blue springs.

Hope it helps a bit.
rear shock position #3 silver pro4 springs and the camber link height change you told me to try. Ill give your other suggestion a try about the rear blue springs and shock position #4.

One quick qustion. What would happen to the car if i put up Gold springs and silver rears with both front and rear on #3 on the shock tower? I would think it would worsten the push right?
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Old 02-16-2010, 03:50 PM   #18531
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 05forfun View Post
I have a previous version of cyclone TC (Hara or Moore Speed version), I am wondering what kind of 5000 mah lipo pack I can use without any modification or buying conversion kit. I noticed that some packs with hump are generally shorter in height (without hump), so I MAY be able to use them (like ProTek, Team power, IP)
I am running 5800man turnigy LiPo's and they dropped straight into my WCE (moore-speed) chassis.

Only real problem was getting the battery tape tight enough to stop the battery slopping about, but not so tight it tweaked the chassis.

I've since bought the Exotek chassis, to be honest the stock chassis handled my 5800's better.

The problem is the weights are positioned to high for batteries where the leads come out the side.





There is also very little adjustment (as in none) for bigger batteries.
I'm at the max settings right now, so this means one of the major selling points of the chassis, it's ability to finely tune the weight balance is just not possible.

So i'm in the position now where i will have to.
a/ Revert back to the stock chassis
b/ Sell my batteries and buy smaller ones with the wires coming out the top
c/ Modify the Exotex weights and chassis.

B isn't really much of an option as where we meet up there are no charging facilities and the cars are parked on a public road away from the driving area so leaving the engine running is way to risky.

So the 5800man turnigy pacls fit into the stock WCE chassis fine, but need a bit of side support to stop slop.
If you decide to go with another LiPo specific chassis don't make the same mistake i did, measure up your batteries and make sure they're compatible with the chassis you buy.
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Old 02-16-2010, 04:20 PM   #18532
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what is the best brushless system to get for the cyclone s? thanks
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Old 02-16-2010, 07:41 PM   #18533
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Default LiPo in Exotek Chassis

I use an Exotek chassis and my Fantom 5000mAH (I think it is a relabeled Thunder Power) fits perfectly. I'm guessing you will not have problems fitting a battery with the Exotek chassis if you use a standard hard case battery that meets the ROAR guidelines.
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Old 02-16-2010, 07:54 PM   #18534
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Thank you guys. It seems any packs which have height less than 23.5 mm will fit the slot, that is what I thought. But does anybody have problem with tiny clearance between the pack and upper deck holder? I mean when the chassis rolls, don't they touch?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Doog View Post
I use an Exotek chassis and my Fantom 5000mAH (I think it is a relabeled Thunder Power) fits perfectly. I'm guessing you will not have problems fitting a battery with the Exotek chassis if you use a standard hard case battery that meets the ROAR guidelines.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gixer View Post
I am running 5800man turnigy LiPo's and they dropped straight into my WCE (moore-speed) chassis.

Only real problem was getting the battery tape tight enough to stop the battery slopping about, but not so tight it tweaked the chassis.

I've since bought the Exotek chassis, to be honest the stock chassis handled my 5800's better.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JR007 View Post
I have a Surikarn and have been using 2 different Lipo's.
The SMC4100 I have slots right in.
I also have a GP4000 which I had to grind 1/2mm off the underside of the ali bulkhead to fit it (has humps under it that fit into the battery slots.
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Old 02-16-2010, 07:57 PM   #18535
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Hi Doog,

Yep that looks to fit perfectly.
The main problem with my batteries is the fact that the wires come out facing the side rather than upwards like yours.

When i bought the chassis i figured that i would be able to run the wires through the other side (i.e. facing the opposite was than in my pics).

When i feed them through this way though the wires catch on the drive belt and servo.


Unfortunately i donated my old chassis to a mate.
So am not able to swap back.


Doog where are your adjustments at please?
Are you at the maximum width setting with that battery?
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Old 02-16-2010, 08:00 PM   #18536
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Doog View Post
I use an Exotek chassis and my Fantom 5000mAH (I think it is a relabeled Thunder Power) fits perfectly. I'm guessing you will not have problems fitting a battery with the Exotek chassis if you use a standard hard case battery that meets the ROAR guidelines.


MikeR designed the chassis specifically to handle the 'ROAR approved' hardcased lipo packs. If you try one of them, you won't have any problems
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Old 02-16-2010, 08:09 PM   #18537
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Default few questions about solid axle and pro spec diff

Hi guys, I want to buy this solid axle http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Set-Ver3-Black
but would like to know what kind of pulley should I use with it? and do I need to buy pins separately to put the axle and cup together?

Another question is whats the difference between regular diff and pro spec? I know pro spec has bigger ring and diff balls, and the cup joint is different, what about screw set and bearing? Can I use regular bearings and screws in pro spec diff? Thanks
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Old 02-16-2010, 08:24 PM   #18538
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Just done a quick search and it looks like ROAR is a RC racing organisation.
Another quick look at a few batteries on their list and they seem extremely expensive compared to the Turnigy's i'm using.

As ROAR approval mean absolutely nothing for the group i compete with it, seems pretty pointless in paying all that extra money for batteries that have the ROAR stamp of approval.

Plus i already have 3 very good batteries, so buying new ones seems a hell of a waste.


Is there another LiPo specific chassis out there that works with a broader spectrum of LiPo sizes and shapes?
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Old 02-16-2010, 09:35 PM   #18539
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gixer View Post
Just done a quick search and it looks like ROAR is a RC racing organisation.
Another quick look at a few batteries on their list and they seem extremely expensive compared to the Turnigy's i'm using.

As ROAR approval mean absolutely nothing for the group i compete with it, seems pretty pointless in paying all that extra money for batteries that have the ROAR stamp of approval.

Plus i already have 3 very good batteries, so buying new ones seems a hell of a waste.


Is there another LiPo specific chassis out there that works with a broader spectrum of LiPo sizes and shapes?
Playing Devil's advocate here but the price of another chassis is about the price of a ROAR spec battery...
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Old 02-16-2010, 10:08 PM   #18540
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Originally Posted by trickd122 View Post
Playing Devil's advocate here but the price of another chassis is about the price of a ROAR spec battery...
Any advice much appreciated.
My Turnigy batteries were $27 though, so i don't think i can find a chassis for that amount.

Plus for a decent session i really need at least 2 if not 3 batteries as there is no charging facilities.


I've just measured up and it looked like on the max length settings my LiPo's will fit.
So with this in mind i'm going to cut back some of the protective coating and see about ideally repositioning the powre wires, or fitting slight more flexible ones.

That way i may be able to turn the batteries over and avoid contact with the steering shaft, Servo and drive belt.


Fingers crossed.
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