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Old 02-05-2010, 02:00 PM   #18466
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Originally Posted by mlight13 View Post
That was the ticket! Thank you Fllyer, now I can enjoy a quiet car. I never had that happen on any of my cars before, but there is always a first for everything I suppose.
Your welcome.

It was the first time I had something like that happen on my S also.
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Old 02-08-2010, 02:57 AM   #18467
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if anyone interested i have a cyclone tc in the for sale thread asking 200 shipped
Cyclone TC for sale

Last edited by mugenracer; 02-08-2010 at 03:04 AM. Reason: add link
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Old 02-08-2010, 06:06 AM   #18468
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This ones for Korey,

A few pages back you suggested that using 0degree ff block and position 1 on the TC wishbone gave a similar effect to the sus block mod: do you use a thin wheel hex with this set-up?

best,

Mi
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Old 02-08-2010, 06:16 AM   #18469
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I have a WCE Cyclone with lots of parts and upgrades and extra foam chassis and upperdeck for salpm me if you are intrested
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Old 02-08-2010, 08:11 AM   #18470
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Originally Posted by michael.branth View Post
This ones for Korey,

A few pages back you suggested that using 0degree ff block and position 1 on the TC wishbone gave a similar effect to the sus block mod: do you use a thin wheel hex with this set-up?

best,

Mi
Unless the grip is really low and you need more steering, just stick with the standard wheel hex in that situation. You can also try adding a little bit of arm sweep as well if you need more mid-exit steering.

-Korey
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Old 02-08-2010, 10:39 AM   #18471
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maybe we could get a peek at barry bakers 13.5 setup from snowbirds ?
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Old 02-08-2010, 10:39 AM   #18472
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Originally Posted by Hi-LowBlow View Post
I think it's good to try going lower the front suspension blocks to 1.0mm and and using thinner wheel hex (4mm). If you still have the push problem after you try this, you might want to think about going narrower on hinge pins (1.5deg blocks).
Hiro/Korey, I tried the 1.0mm shims and 4mm hexes and I got more mid corner. I haven't tried the 1.5mm blocks yet. Thanks for the help.

I noticed that Baker used 3mm shims on the inside front link. Whould this take away mid corner ?
Thanks again.
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Old 02-08-2010, 11:37 AM   #18473
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Originally Posted by michael.branth View Post
Hi,

Ima gradually getting a good carpet set up sorted out, this is what I ran tonight, some small changes, 2mm under all camber links and no anti-drive. Car was good to drive and I climbed up the order a bit more, 400th of fastest laps.

I am looking for ideas to get more grip on power, the track has two areas I want to improve the set-up, a tight hair pin where when I punch the power the car pushes wide. and a longish sweep where again it can push wide.

2 things I am looking at, shorten front wheel base? chnage to 50wt all round with 3 hole pistons

Front:
Spring: HPI White
Oil: Edit 50 wt
Piston: HB 2 hole
Shock position: 3 on tower, 2 on arm
Camber: 1.0 deg
Camber Link position: long
Shims under camber link: 2mm
Caster: 4 deg
Suspension blocks: 1.5deg FF
Shims under suspension blocks: 1mmRear 1mm Front
Droop: 7mm on a droop gauge, measured at the arm right under the outer hinge pin
Ride height: 5mm
Swaybar: 1.4mm,
Front Drive: Ver 3 spool, steel drive cups, MIP's
Wheelbase: 2mm behind arm ( long base)
Wheel Hex:

Rear:
Spring: HPI Silver
Oil: Losi 35 wt
Piston: HB 2 hole
Shock position: 3 on tower and 3 on arm
Camber: 1.5 deg
Camber Link Position: Long on bulkhead, short on hub (standard setup)
Shims under camber link: 2mm
Rear Toe Block:2.5 deg
Shims under toe/suspension blocks: 1mm
Droop: 6mm on gauge
Ride Height: 5mm
Swaybar: 1.2mm
Wheelbase: 2mm behind arm, .7 behind. 2mm in front of hub carrier, .7 behind.
Wheel hex: standard

Other:
Cut top deck
FRP Mid deck cut
Steering bellcrank shim: 4mm
Tires: sweep 32
Body: Protoform Mazda 6

cheers mi
Too much front droop. You say you're having an on power pushing issue. While accelerating, you car is going to shift weight towards the back as the nose goes up. With that much front droop, you're allowing the nose to raise up too much, thus shifting too much weight to the rear of the car, making it unable to steer. You might try bringing droop down to 5 or 5.5 (with droop gauge) in the front..
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Old 02-08-2010, 01:15 PM   #18474
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madwestmo View Post
maybe we could get a peek at barry bakers 13.5 setup from snowbirds ?
Hiro actually posted it a few pages back. You should take a peak there

-Korey
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Old 02-08-2010, 01:16 PM   #18475
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Originally Posted by jag88 View Post
Hiro/Korey, I tried the 1.0mm shims and 4mm hexes and I got more mid corner. I haven't tried the 1.5mm blocks yet. Thanks for the help.

I noticed that Baker used 3mm shims on the inside front link. Whould this take away mid corner ?
Thanks again.
Usually it does take away mid corner steering. I usually notice the car is a little more crisp at high speed that way. The car will corner a little flatter too.

-Korey
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Old 02-08-2010, 01:48 PM   #18476
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Bit of help please.

I've searched and i've read up as much as i can but i'm struggling to understand what the spacing under the toe blocks does exactly.

Are you simply fitting spacers under 1 block or the other to alter the caster?


If you fit spacers under both front toe blocks for example then set the camber to what it was without the spacers, how does this affect the geometry please?


*edit
This is the same as kick up right?
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Old 02-08-2010, 02:09 PM   #18477
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Originally Posted by gixer View Post
Bit of help please.

I've searched and i've read up as much as i can but i'm struggling to understand what the spacing under the toe blocks does exactly.

Are you simply fitting spacers under 1 block or the other to alter the caster?


If you fit spacers under both front toe blocks for example then set the camber to what it was without the spacers, how does this affect the geometry please?


*edit
This is the same as kick up right?
When adding or removing shims under the toe and suspension blocks equally, it raises and lowers the roll center. Adding shims will raise the roll center, and lowering them will lower it. Higher roll centers generally make the car more reactive, roll less, but have less grip overall. Lower generally makes the car smoother, roll more, and have more grip.

When just adding shims on one of the blocks, you change the actual angle of the hinge pins. This is what kickup (sometimes called prodive), antidive, anti squat, and pro squat are. Kickup and ntidive are in the front, and prosquat and antisquat are in the rear.

A good source to look up just basic terms and some pictures for reference is the Hudy setup guide. It's based around xray cars, and I don't agree with 100% of it, but a lot of the info is a pretty good guideline. Just do a google search for it, and it's pretty easy to find

-Korey
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Old 02-08-2010, 02:47 PM   #18478
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
When adding or removing shims under the toe and suspension blocks equally, it raises and lowers the roll center. Adding shims will raise the roll center, and lowering them will lower it. Higher roll centers generally make the car more reactive, roll less, but have less grip overall. Lower generally makes the car smoother, roll more, and have more grip.

When just adding shims on one of the blocks, you change the actual angle of the hinge pins. This is what kickup (sometimes called prodive), antidive, anti squat, and pro squat are. Kickup and ntidive are in the front, and prosquat and antisquat are in the rear.

A good source to look up just basic terms and some pictures for reference is the Hudy setup guide. It's based around xray cars, and I don't agree with 100% of it, but a lot of the info is a pretty good guideline. Just do a google search for it, and it's pretty easy to find

-Korey
Much appreciated Korey thanks.

I did find a half decent guide on kick up, but it was for a off road forum and i struggled to project that info onto a TC car use.

I'll have a gander at the Xray guide thanks.



Cheers
Mark
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Old 02-08-2010, 09:01 PM   #18479
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Default Cyclone TC

Hi guys new to the site... i race in the uk on carpet....

Just thought id better come on here for some advice really i race on verious sizes of track so i decided to get the brushless motor mount which will allow me a bigger spur on the car (running 64 pitch) currently have a 104 on but now that doesnt even protrude through the bottom of the chassis at all so there is quite a bit of room can anyone shed any light on what spur i can get on it bigger the better im guessing perhaps a 112 but no one has one i can try on and i cant ask a model slop to open one up lol... please help so i can get down to my lhs!

Russ
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Old 02-08-2010, 11:33 PM   #18480
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Default Drive Shafts

In you guys opinion what is the best drive shaft to use in the front of the car out of;

* the ones in the WCE version #61088 - MIP CVDS CYCLONE..

* or the #61403 UNIVERSAL DRIVE SHAFT SET (VER.2/BLACK/2PCS)

I have both but was wondering which is best to use in the front.

I am not using a very powerful motor so I am after a smooth drive train rather then durability..

Cheers
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