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Old 02-04-2010, 09:24 AM   #18451
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Ok guys, here is Barry's setup sheet from Snowbirds 2010.
I think he ran the same setup for both mod and 13.5 (i will confirm with him). The FDR for 13.5 was,,,,

Spur Gear: 108t
Pinion: 31t
FDR:7.546

Thanks.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Barry Baker Snowbirds 2010 Mod.pdf (409.1 KB, 356 views)
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Old 02-04-2010, 11:09 AM   #18452
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Totally agree with what Hiro said. You cal also run a little bit of arm sweep by running a 2.5 or 3.0 block in the FF block.

-Korey
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Old 02-04-2010, 11:50 AM   #18453
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Default Rear toe issue

-Korey

How do I fix the rear toe issue on my car. I spoke to several guys and they say that they have bent the rear alu hub. So if I use a 3 deg on the Hudy gauges it's a little less that 2.5.
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Old 02-04-2010, 11:55 AM   #18454
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Originally Posted by trickd122 View Post
-Korey

How do I fix the rear toe issue on my car. I spoke to several guys and they say that they have bent the rear alu hub. So if I use a 3 deg on the Hudy gauges it's a little less that 2.5.
Well, there was a small run of rear hub carriers that had the holes drilled a little weird. Good way to check the rear hubs is to see if the holes are in the same spot on both ends of the hub carrier. If it isn't drill straight, one will be a little offset.

I personally use the aluminum ones so I wouldn't have to worry about that. I haven't had any issues with them for about a year of racing. HB uses a pretty good aluminum for those particular parts.

Also check your hinge pins and make sure they are straight. Those can have an affect on rear toe in as well.

-Korey
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Old 02-04-2010, 01:54 PM   #18455
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Hey all...please help!

I just finished building my Cyclone S and have had nothing but problems so far. Most have been resolved except for the last one. After I installed all electrical components, all was well until I hit the throttle. It makes a consistent ticking noise at low to mid throttle and I can't figure out where it is coming from. At full throttle, I do not hear it at all. I am running a brand new Team Scream Racing 27T Epic ROAR motor, Robinson Racing Super spur and aluminum pro pinion which were meshed with a piece of paper, and I checked the belts, diffs, etc for tightness. Does anyone have ideas to what is causing this? It just doesn't sound right and I don't want to look like a tool when I show up at the track and have a clicking car. It is already embarrasing enough that I am running a brushed motor Please help.
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Old 02-04-2010, 05:32 PM   #18456
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Hey all...please help!

I just finished building my Cyclone S and have had nothing but problems so far. Most have been resolved except for the last one. After I installed all electrical components, all was well until I hit the throttle. It makes a consistent ticking noise at low to mid throttle and I can't figure out where it is coming from. At full throttle, I do not hear it at all. I am running a brand new Team Scream Racing 27T Epic ROAR motor, Robinson Racing Super spur and aluminum pro pinion which were meshed with a piece of paper, and I checked the belts, diffs, etc for tightness. Does anyone have ideas to what is causing this? It just doesn't sound right and I don't want to look like a tool when I show up at the track and have a clicking car. It is already embarrasing enough that I am running a brushed motor Please help.
Had a similar thing happen on my S once. Try placing a washer between the motor screws and the motor plate. It sounds a little like the motor screws might be touching the armature.
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Old 02-05-2010, 05:56 AM   #18457
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Had a similar thing happen on my S once. Try placing a washer between the motor screws and the motor plate. It sounds a little like the motor screws might be touching the armature.
Check the pins on the front drive shafts - if the pin is protruding from the axle cup, it can cause a ticking sound. Don't ask me how I know

Also, make sure spur is clean - if something is wedged into the teeth, it may cause a ticking sound as well.
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Old 02-05-2010, 06:31 AM   #18458
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Check the pins on the front drive shafts - if the pin is protruding from the axle cup, it can cause a ticking sound. .
I think unless he has CVD's, i don't think the dogbones will have this problem in his Cylone S. I had this same issue as well...
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Old 02-05-2010, 07:33 AM   #18459
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Originally Posted by Hi-LowBlow View Post
Ok guys, here is Barry's setup sheet from Snowbirds 2010.
I think he ran the same setup for both mod and 13.5 (i will confirm with him). The FDR for 13.5 was,,,,

Spur Gear: 108t
Pinion: 31t
FDR:7.546

Thanks.
was used Chassis TC? Or Exotek?
Topdeck?
Cut Middle Deck?
thanks
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Old 02-05-2010, 08:13 AM   #18460
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Originally Posted by Luppi Stefano View Post
was used Chassis TC? Or Exotek?
Topdeck?
Cut Middle Deck?
thanks
I'm pretty sure he ran the chassis that is included with the moorespeed edition car, and typical upper deck and mid deck (not cut).

-Korey
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Old 02-05-2010, 10:30 AM   #18461
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
I'm pretty sure he ran the chassis that is included with the moorespeed edition car, and typical upper deck and mid deck (not cut).

-Korey
thanks Korey!!!
Spacer 1,5mm under Rear Pivot Block is useful for increase rear traction?
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Last edited by Luppi Stefano; 02-05-2010 at 10:54 AM.
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Old 02-05-2010, 11:00 AM   #18462
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Originally Posted by Luppi Stefano View Post
thanks Korey!!!
Spacer 1,5mm under Rear Pivot Block is useful for increase rear traction?
It usually depends on how much grip is actually on the track. In very high traction conditions, the 1.5mm will make the back end of the car corner flatter than say... 1.0mm. This can sometimes produce MORE rear traction. In lower grip conditions, you need the car to roll a little more sometimes, so running 1.0mm would allow that, and create more grip.

I usually always run a 1.5mm in the back just as a starting point. I usually run 1.5mm up front as well, but every now and then if I want to smooth out the car, and gain mid-exit steering... I run 1.0mm in the front.

-Korey
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Old 02-05-2010, 11:30 AM   #18463
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
It usually depends on how much grip is actually on the track. In very high traction conditions, the 1.5mm will make the back end of the car corner flatter than say... 1.0mm. This can sometimes produce MORE rear traction. In lower grip conditions, you need the car to roll a little more sometimes, so running 1.0mm would allow that, and create more grip.

I usually always run a 1.5mm in the back just as a starting point. I usually run 1.5mm up front as well, but every now and then if I want to smooth out the car, and gain mid-exit steering... I run 1.0mm in the front.

-Korey
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Old 02-05-2010, 11:32 AM   #18464
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Originally Posted by Luppi Stefano View Post
was used Chassis TC? Or Exotek?
Topdeck?
Cut Middle Deck?
thanks
He said he ran the AME chassis with cut middle deck.

Thanks,
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Old 02-05-2010, 01:19 PM   #18465
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Originally Posted by Fllyer View Post
Had a similar thing happen on my S once. Try placing a washer between the motor screws and the motor plate. It sounds a little like the motor screws might be touching the armature.
That was the ticket! Thank you Fllyer, now I can enjoy a quiet car. I never had that happen on any of my cars before, but there is always a first for everything I suppose.
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