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Old 02-01-2010, 06:29 PM   #18436
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Somebody talk to Barry Baker and see if they can get him to post his Snowbirds set-up.
Really would like to see that .....
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Old 02-01-2010, 06:34 PM   #18437
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Hi guys,

I'm looking for a little advice on setup.

The car is used for drifting, but i am hoping that setup will be setup no matter what the use.

I am getting a fair amount of understeer on corner entry, i've tried various camber and toe settings but although more camber helped it's still fairly bad.

I've read through a fair section of the posts in this thread and "kick up" gets mentioned a fair bit.
Ad i understand it, this is placing spacers underneath the toe in blocks which has the effect of altering the angle the suspension arms have compared to the ground.


Do you think this would help in my case?


I'd also really appreciate any advice on setup with regards to keeping the car stable while sliding.



Thanks
Mark
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Old 02-01-2010, 09:12 PM   #18438
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What tires did you use? I would say try a set of tires which can grip on the ground, then see if your car improve

Quote:
Originally Posted by gixer View Post
Hi guys,

I'm looking for a little advice on setup.

The car is used for drifting, but i am hoping that setup will be setup no matter what the use.

I am getting a fair amount of understeer on corner entry, i've tried various camber and toe settings but although more camber helped it's still fairly bad.

I've read through a fair section of the posts in this thread and "kick up" gets mentioned a fair bit.
Ad i understand it, this is placing spacers underneath the toe in blocks which has the effect of altering the angle the suspension arms have compared to the ground.


Do you think this would help in my case?


I'd also really appreciate any advice on setup with regards to keeping the car stable while sliding.



Thanks
Mark
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Old 02-02-2010, 12:43 PM   #18439
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparx View Post
I've bent a aluminium rear hub carrier quite bad when the wheel catched a trackmarker, toeout on the rear wheels are not that good so i'm back to plastic.
I recieved my Exotek chassie today, i love the lipo fitment and the balance is spot on! However there was no antenna mounting hole and i'd like to see holes drilled for the "2 degree F/R mount" mod The chassie kit is still top notch though!

Ok so Now I have tried 5 different plastic rear hubs same effect. So I decided to test the rear toe blk itself same issue.. Hinge pins I changed to new ones. Has anyone tried the Tamiya or Xray ones?
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Old 02-02-2010, 01:59 PM   #18440
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 05forfun View Post
What tires did you use? I would say try a set of tires which can grip on the ground, then see if your car improve
We are restricted to only 1 set of tyres we can use, obviously these being drift tyres grip is not really much at all.


I have been experimenting with the car today.
At full lock the inner well was resting on the otter edge of the tyre.
The outer wheel resting on the inner edge.

I've dialled in more camber (4.5) so that the inside wheel is flat at full lock but this gives the outer wheel a lot more camber.


Any suggestions please?
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Old 02-02-2010, 03:28 PM   #18441
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Hi,

Ima gradually getting a good carpet set up sorted out, this is what I ran tonight, some small changes, 2mm under all camber links and no anti-drive. Car was good to drive and I climbed up the order a bit more, 400th of fastest laps.

I am looking for ideas to get more grip on power, the track has two areas I want to improve the set-up, a tight hair pin where when I punch the power the car pushes wide. and a longish sweep where again it can push wide.

2 things I am looking at, shorten front wheel base? chnage to 50wt all round with 3 hole pistons

Front:
Spring: HPI White
Oil: Edit 50 wt
Piston: HB 2 hole
Shock position: 3 on tower, 2 on arm
Camber: 1.0 deg
Camber Link position: long
Shims under camber link: 2mm
Caster: 4 deg
Suspension blocks: 1.5deg FF
Shims under suspension blocks: 1mmRear 1mm Front
Droop: 7mm on a droop gauge, measured at the arm right under the outer hinge pin
Ride height: 5mm
Swaybar: 1.4mm,
Front Drive: Ver 3 spool, steel drive cups, MIP's
Wheelbase: 2mm behind arm ( long base)
Wheel Hex:

Rear:
Spring: HPI Silver
Oil: Losi 35 wt
Piston: HB 2 hole
Shock position: 3 on tower and 3 on arm
Camber: 1.5 deg
Camber Link Position: Long on bulkhead, short on hub (standard setup)
Shims under camber link: 2mm
Rear Toe Block:2.5 deg
Shims under toe/suspension blocks: 1mm
Droop: 6mm on gauge
Ride Height: 5mm
Swaybar: 1.2mm
Wheelbase: 2mm behind arm, .7 behind. 2mm in front of hub carrier, .7 behind.
Wheel hex: standard

Other:
Cut top deck
FRP Mid deck cut
Steering bellcrank shim: 4mm
Tires: sweep 32
Body: Protoform Mazda 6

cheers mi
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Old 02-02-2010, 04:56 PM   #18442
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michael.branth View Post
Hi,

Ima gradually getting a good carpet set up sorted out, this is what I ran tonight, some small changes, 2mm under all camber links and no anti-drive. Car was good to drive and I climbed up the order a bit more, 400th of fastest laps.

I am looking for ideas to get more grip on power, the track has two areas I want to improve the set-up, a tight hair pin where when I punch the power the car pushes wide. and a longish sweep where again it can push wide.

2 things I am looking at, shorten front wheel base? chnage to 50wt all round with 3 hole pistons

Front:
Spring: HPI White
Oil: Edit 50 wt
Piston: HB 2 hole
Shock position: 3 on tower, 2 on arm
Camber: 1.0 deg
Camber Link position: long
Shims under camber link: 2mm
Caster: 4 deg
Suspension blocks: 1.5deg FF
Shims under suspension blocks: 1mmRear 1mm Front
Droop: 7mm on a droop gauge, measured at the arm right under the outer hinge pin
Ride height: 5mm
Swaybar: 1.4mm,
Front Drive: Ver 3 spool, steel drive cups, MIP's
Wheelbase: 2mm behind arm ( long base)
Wheel Hex:

Rear:
Spring: HPI Silver
Oil: Losi 35 wt
Piston: HB 2 hole
Shock position: 3 on tower and 3 on arm
Camber: 1.5 deg
Camber Link Position: Long on bulkhead, short on hub (standard setup)
Shims under camber link: 2mm
Rear Toe Block:2.5 deg
Shims under toe/suspension blocks: 1mm
Droop: 6mm on gauge
Ride Height: 5mm
Swaybar: 1.2mm
Wheelbase: 2mm behind arm, .7 behind. 2mm in front of hub carrier, .7 behind.
Wheel hex: standard

Other:
Cut top deck
FRP Mid deck cut
Steering bellcrank shim: 4mm
Tires: sweep 32
Body: Protoform Mazda 6

cheers mi
IMO I'd proly go with a softer shock oil in the front. In my experience that losi oil is thickcompared to other brands. maybe 37.5wt losi all around.
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Old 02-03-2010, 02:14 AM   #18443
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michael.branth View Post
Hi,

Ima gradually getting a good carpet set up sorted out, this is what I ran tonight, some small changes, 2mm under all camber links and no anti-drive. Car was good to drive and I climbed up the order a bit more, 400th of fastest laps.

I am looking for ideas to get more grip on power, the track has two areas I want to improve the set-up, a tight hair pin where when I punch the power the car pushes wide. and a longish sweep where again it can push wide.

2 things I am looking at, shorten front wheel base? chnage to 50wt all round with 3 hole pistons

Front:
Spring: HPI White
Oil: Edit 50 wt
Piston: HB 2 hole
Shock position: 3 on tower, 2 on arm
Camber: 1.0 deg
Camber Link position: long
Shims under camber link: 2mm
Caster: 4 deg
Suspension blocks: 1.5deg FF
Shims under suspension blocks: 1mmRear 1mm Front
Droop: 7mm on a droop gauge, measured at the arm right under the outer hinge pin
Ride height: 5mm
Swaybar: 1.4mm,
Front Drive: Ver 3 spool, steel drive cups, MIP's
Wheelbase: 2mm behind arm ( long base)
Wheel Hex:

Rear:
Spring: HPI Silver
Oil: Losi 35 wt
Piston: HB 2 hole
Shock position: 3 on tower and 3 on arm
Camber: 1.5 deg
Camber Link Position: Long on bulkhead, short on hub (standard setup)
Shims under camber link: 2mm
Rear Toe Block:2.5 deg
Shims under toe/suspension blocks: 1mm
Droop: 6mm on gauge
Ride Height: 5mm
Swaybar: 1.2mm
Wheelbase: 2mm behind arm, .7 behind. 2mm in front of hub carrier, .7 behind.
Wheel hex: standard

Other:
Cut top deck
FRP Mid deck cut
Steering bellcrank shim: 4mm
Tires: sweep 32
Body: Protoform Mazda 6

cheers mi
try matching your stabilisers either softer front or harder rear. actually test with 1.2 all round and again with 1.4 all round. for me i find much better car balance whenever i run like this!! especially with throttle input!! let me know how you go!!
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Old 02-03-2010, 02:22 AM   #18444
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i would say shorten the wheelbase but i dont know how small/large your track is , but that always helps me get around those hairpins , wont help alot on the sweeper tho , that might be due to the chassis flexing too much with both decks cut , try the std frp deck in the back and the same shock oil all around to balnce the back end out
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Old 02-03-2010, 06:23 AM   #18445
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Cheers ,


Quote:
Originally Posted by trickd122 View Post
IMO I'd proly go with a softer shock oil in the front. In my experience that losi oil is thickcompared to other brands. maybe 37.5wt losi all around.
I'll give this a go, but as we have a fast turn around at the local club I most likely to try 50wt ft and Rr and test the balence out, then may be go softer


[/QUOTE].try matching your stabilisers either softer front or harder rear. actually test with 1.2 all round and again with 1.4 all round. for me i find much better car balance whenever i run like this!! especially with throttle input!! let me know how you go!! [/QUOTE]

I do have 2 1.4 bars and a slightly harder rear bar may just work, again due to the limit with time between races this is some that I would spend a night with whilst testing other options

[/QUOTE]i would say shorten the wheelbase but i dont know how small/large your track is , but that always helps me get around those hairpins , wont help alot on the sweeper tho , that might be due to the chassis flexing too much with both decks cut , try the std frp deck in the back and the same shock oil all around to balnce the back end out [/QUOTE]

I've tried the short wheel base before, but the chassis pitched forward to much- still now that I am getting closer to an optimum set-up I may give it a go.

The top decks and 50wt all around is some thing I could do back to back tests with so this is whats on my list for next week, then work through the others. I 've also read the xray guide that says if a car is good off power but pushes on to increase the ackerman ( less spacers) this is pretty much what I have so I am going to trim the top of my ball studs so I can change between races- going to try 3mm then 2mm. Andy mores Titc 2009 uses 3mm with Hb springs so Thats got to be worth a go.

Does any one use Tamiya Springs on carpet? I ve seen this done and just wondered why they would be better and whay Andy moore used them in 2008 but not 2009??????

cheers guys
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Old 02-03-2010, 11:09 AM   #18446
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gixer View Post
We are restricted to only 1 set of tyres we can use, obviously these being drift tyres grip is not really much at all.


I have been experimenting with the car today.
At full lock the inner well was resting on the otter edge of the tyre.
The outer wheel resting on the inner edge.

I've dialled in more camber (4.5) so that the inside wheel is flat at full lock but this gives the outer wheel a lot more camber.


Any suggestions please?
I have tried drifting before, but not any high-spec stuff. I uderstood that you should have zero camber, or close to it. You car won't body roll much as there is almost no tractions, so the low camber allows more of the "tire" to be on the ground, and give you more steering.
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Old 02-03-2010, 05:22 PM   #18447
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Default looking to return to rc

i am looking to return to rc after a long brake what i had before is my mamba max 7700 motor and ecu i have my cyclone hara edition with many hop ups also my jr radio spectrum also my ice charger i use to run modified but now i am looking to down scale and run STOCK with the guys at another track i am looking for some advice on what motor and ecu,batt to use i am looking for brushless set up also some lipo i would like to use back the ecu that i have if possible so i would only have to look for a motor if not i would have to buy both.

thanks
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Old 02-04-2010, 07:57 AM   #18448
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Korey/Hiro, I'm running the 2 deg block mod and I suffering a mid corner push (blues, carpet). I going to try lowering the front roll center by going to 1 mm spacers (1.5 mm now) and using a thinner wheel hex. How thin do you run your hex ?
Thanks.
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Old 02-04-2010, 08:09 AM   #18449
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jag88 View Post
Korey/Hiro, I'm running the 2 deg block mod and I suffering a mid corner push (blues, carpet). I going to try lowering the front roll center by going to 1 mm spacers (1.5 mm now) and using a thinner wheel hex. How thin do you run your hex ?
Thanks.
I think it's good to try going lower the front suspension blocks to 1.0mm and and using thinner wheel hex (4mm). If you still have the push problem after you try this, you might want to think about going narrower on hinge pins (1.5deg blocks).
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Old 02-04-2010, 08:50 AM   #18450
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hi-LowBlow View Post
I think it's good to try going lower the front suspension blocks to 1.0mm and and using thinner wheel hex (4mm). If you still have the push problem after you try this, you might want to think about going narrower on hinge pins (1.5deg blocks).

Thank you Hiro, I just orderd the 1.5 blocks (just in case).
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