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Old 01-27-2010, 11:07 AM   #18391
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Originally Posted by michael.branth View Post
HI,

This is a carpet set-up I used last night, It got me much closer to the A finla than the others I have tried. Still not there but read on, The only thing I would say is I measured the droop from the front of the wish bone, but since the car has anti-dive it would be even lower. I increased the droop for the finla race and the car was really getting there for me- Thanks every one who has pitched in with this:

Front:
Spring: HPI White
Oil: Edit 50 wt
Piston: HB 2 hole
Shock position: 3 on tower, 2 on arm
Camber: 1.0 deg
Camber Link position: long
Shims under camber link: 1mm
Caster: 4 deg
Suspension blocks: 1.5deg FF
Shims under suspension blocks: 1.5mmRear 1mm Front
Droop: 7mm on a droop gauge, measured at the arm right under the outer hinge pin
Ride height: 5mm
Swaybar: 1.4mm,
Front Drive: Ver 3 spool, steel drive cups, MIP's
Wheelbase: 2mm behind arm ( long base)
Wheel Hex:

Rear:
Spring: HPI Silver
Oil: Losi 35 wt
Piston: HB 2 hole
Shock position: 3 on tower and 3 on arm
Camber: 1.5 deg
Camber Link Position: Long on bulkhead, short on hub (standard setup)
Shims under camber link: 3mm
Rear Toe Block: 3 deg
Shims under toe/suspension blocks: 1mm
Droop: 6mm on gauge
Ride Height: 5mm
Swaybar: 1.2mm
Wheelbase: 2mm in front of arm, .7 behind. 2mm in front of hub carrier, .7 behind.
Wheel hex: standard

Other:
Cut top deck
FRP Mid deck cut
Steering bellcrank shim: 4mm
Tires: sweep 32
Body: Protoform Mazda 6

I am ready to dial some more steering inot the car as well as take the anti-dive away so smooth out the steering through out the corner, But I will be running about 7mm front droop to start.

Other things I will be trying areand in this order one at a time)
Full re-bound in all shocks to get responsiveness back
2mm under rear ball stud- just to stop it running out of travel late in the corner.
2mm under front ball stud- to smooth transition
Standing the rear shocks up
Softer front springs


any other ideas to try appricated - and hope its of inspiration to others,

Mi
hmm your from the uk right ? i see your running sweep 32's , ive always used sorex 24's on carpet , do the 32's provide enough grip ? or are you running additive ? is your track permanent too or setup in a hall etc ?
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Old 01-27-2010, 12:41 PM   #18392
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michael.branth View Post
HI,

This is a carpet set-up I used last night, It got me much closer to the A finla than the others I have tried. Still not there but read on, The only thing I would say is I measured the droop from the front of the wish bone, but since the car has anti-dive it would be even lower. I increased the droop for the finla race and the car was really getting there for me- Thanks every one who has pitched in with this:

Front:
Spring: HPI White
Oil: Edit 50 wt
Piston: HB 2 hole
Shock position: 3 on tower, 2 on arm
Camber: 1.0 deg
Camber Link position: long
Shims under camber link: 1mm
Caster: 4 deg
Suspension blocks: 1.5deg FF
Shims under suspension blocks: 1.5mmRear 1mm Front
Droop: 7mm on a droop gauge, measured at the arm right under the outer hinge pin
Ride height: 5mm
Swaybar: 1.4mm,
Front Drive: Ver 3 spool, steel drive cups, MIP's
Wheelbase: 2mm behind arm ( long base)
Wheel Hex:

Rear:
Spring: HPI Silver
Oil: Losi 35 wt
Piston: HB 2 hole
Shock position: 3 on tower and 3 on arm
Camber: 1.5 deg
Camber Link Position: Long on bulkhead, short on hub (standard setup)
Shims under camber link: 3mm
Rear Toe Block: 3 deg
Shims under toe/suspension blocks: 1mm
Droop: 6mm on gauge
Ride Height: 5mm
Swaybar: 1.2mm
Wheelbase: 2mm in front of arm, .7 behind. 2mm in front of hub carrier, .7 behind.
Wheel hex: standard

Other:
Cut top deck
FRP Mid deck cut
Steering bellcrank shim: 4mm
Tires: sweep 32
Body: Protoform Mazda 6

I am ready to dial some more steering inot the car as well as take the anti-dive away so smooth out the steering through out the corner, But I will be running about 7mm front droop to start.

Other things I will be trying areand in this order one at a time)
Full re-bound in all shocks to get responsiveness back
2mm under rear ball stud- just to stop it running out of travel late in the corner.
2mm under front ball stud- to smooth transition
Standing the rear shocks up
Softer front springs


any other ideas to try appricated - and hope its of inspiration to others,

Mi
Any swaybar gap on front or rear?
What rear diff outdrives (plastic or aluminium)?
Have you tried:
-- Solid middle deck (currently cut)?
-- Ackermann = 2mm (currently 4mm)?
-- Rear toe block = 2.5degs (currently 3.0degs)?
-- Front ride height, slightly lower than rear (currently same at 5mm)?

Cheers
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Old 01-27-2010, 12:58 PM   #18393
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Originally Posted by madwestmo View Post
hmm your from the uk right ? i see your running sweep 32's , ive always used sorex 24's on carpet , do the 32's provide enough grip ? or are you running additive ? is your track permanent too or setup in a hall etc ?
Hi yeah plenty of grip, I've only raced at the club may 5 times now but most people are on sorex32, even going to sorex 36 in summer. The sweep where the only 32 I had. The track is non premanent but we do keep the same track design for a few weeks, so some traction does build off.

I was running nosram carpet additive, full front and rear, then half front later when the grip came up.
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Old 01-27-2010, 05:45 PM   #18394
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Default hub carrier

When adding shims on the Hub carrier does more shims in front translate to more or less traction?
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Old 01-28-2010, 06:03 AM   #18395
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michael.branth View Post
Hi yeah plenty of grip, I've only raced at the club may 5 times now but most people are on sorex32, even going to sorex 36 in summer. The sweep where the only 32 I had. The track is non premanent but we do keep the same track design for a few weeks, so some traction does build off.

I was running nosram carpet additive, full front and rear, then half front later when the grip came up.
ah maybe thats why everyone at my club runs sorex 24's .... no additive
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Old 01-28-2010, 06:16 AM   #18396
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Default Whats the difference

Whats the difference between the Old sway bars and the new ones
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Old 01-28-2010, 08:27 AM   #18397
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
Change the shims under the camber link to 3mm front, and 2.0mm rear. Maybe stand the rear shock up a hole. That should be pretty good!

-Korey
korey what rebound do you use on your carpet setup you posted on here ?
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Old 01-28-2010, 01:07 PM   #18398
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Originally Posted by madwestmo View Post
korey what rebound do you use on your carpet setup you posted on here ?
Zero rebound . I don't run the bladder foam, and I drilled a small hole in the shock cap to relieve pressure on top of the bladder.

-Korey
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Old 01-28-2010, 01:08 PM   #18399
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Originally Posted by trickd122 View Post
When adding shims on the Hub carrier does more shims in front translate to more or less traction?
You're talking under the camber link correct? Just on the outside on the hub? Thats basically like running fewer shims on the inner pivot on the camber link. Usually that will give you less initial grip, and more through the middle and exit of the corner.

-Korey
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Old 01-28-2010, 01:12 PM   #18400
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Originally Posted by trickd122 View Post
Whats the difference between the Old sway bars and the new ones
The new mounts allow you to adjust swaybar tweak really easy. Sometimes swaybars aren't perfectly flat, and these allow you to adjust for that. I check swaybar tweak by putting my car with no shocks of tires on a setup board. Then I lift up on one suspension, and see how much travel it takes to make the other arm to start lifting. Adjust the length of those links to make it equal.

I also adjust swaybar angle with this. You can lengthen the left and right links equally to get a little more angle on the swaybar. It makes it feel a little more progressive/softer when you have more angle, and linear/stiffer when it's more flat (the ballstud is tightened all the way down)

-Korey
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Old 01-28-2010, 01:38 PM   #18401
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Ive been using the older moorespeed ones. Never really had an issue with them being un-even. I like the design of the TC sway bars but the grub screw slips on the sway bar as you can't really tighten it up enough into the plastic. But hb make aluminium versions of the new sway bar holders too.

Hth
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Old 01-28-2010, 02:46 PM   #18402
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Originally Posted by jonny123 View Post
Ive been using the older moorespeed ones. Never really had an issue with them being un-even. I like the design of the TC sway bars but the grub screw slips on the sway bar as you can't really tighten it up enough into the plastic. But hb make aluminium versions of the new sway bar holders too.

Hth
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as of now barry baker tq in 13.5 at the birds if im not wrong 26 laps my hotbodies tc doing ok need more speed here at the birds
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Old 01-28-2010, 02:58 PM   #18403
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as of now barry baker tq in 13.5 at the birds if im not wrong 26 laps my hotbodies tc doing ok need more speed here at the birds
Sounds like you need some TEKIN.
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Old 01-28-2010, 06:53 PM   #18404
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Hi guys,

Not too happy with the HB ball studs, a few slight impacts and they just shear off.
I've ordered a set of the 3racing titanium ones so hopefully these are a little better.

Next question is though, what ball cups are best?
Should i just stick with the A302's, or is there anything better out there please?




Cheers
Mark
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Old 01-28-2010, 08:22 PM   #18405
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
You're talking under the camber link correct? Just on the outside on the hub? Thats basically like running fewer shims on the inner pivot on the camber link. Usually that will give you less initial grip, and more through the middle and exit of the corner.

-Korey
Not exactly what I was asking I guess I needed to be more descriptive. I was actually refering to the shims on the hinge pins on the rear upright side. Now what effect does this have?
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