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Old 01-25-2010, 12:05 PM   #18376
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
I ran the one piece aluminum for a while, then I realized every time I ran it my steering would get out of whack every time I hit a wall. Granted... I never ran a servo saver on the servo when I ran the one piece aluminum one. Right now I'm just running the stock setup. It's the plastics top piece, and the aluminum bottom piece.

-Korey
korey i am going to give your setup your posted a few pages back for carpet a go at my next race meeting , anything you would change to make that setup easy to drive for a relative beginner in 13.5t

thanks again
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Old 01-25-2010, 12:14 PM   #18377
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Change the shims under the camber link to 3mm front, and 2.0mm rear. Maybe stand the rear shock up a hole. That should be pretty good!

-Korey
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Old 01-25-2010, 05:58 PM   #18378
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Default antiroll bars

This has plagued my mind for quite some time now. Anti-roll bars. It is obvious that we can manipulate how responsive a roll bar acts i.e when the bar lifts the opposite arm. Does anyone use this as a tuning aid, and what I am refering to is not changing the bar but change at what point the bar acts.

Eample when I lift the right arm 15mm the left arm starts to lift.
How are you guys setting this Kory, Hiro anyone

Question 2
I am all set to go with the FF/FR mod. Am I really expecting to see a big change here? and if so couldnt we have arrived at the same feel with another method i.e rollcenter springs I don't know....

This is what happens when I get a chance to think lol
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Old 01-25-2010, 06:14 PM   #18379
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Your answer to question 1 I believe is how far through the connector you "poke" the sway bar. The further through, the closer the connector is to the pivot point, and so the more leverage it has. I've never played with it myself. Set and forget for me!
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Old 01-25-2010, 06:20 PM   #18380
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Finally had my first race with my new Cyclone TC. It was awesome! I was only .1 sec off TQ, which is good for me. I used one of Koreys setups, and it was really pretty hooked up. However, the car did have a slight understeer. So I have a general setup question. With a car that is understeering, what end of the car do you generally start with when trying to make changes? Do you try to make changes to the front end to get more grip, or do you make changes to the rear end to reduce the grip at that end?
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Old 01-25-2010, 06:54 PM   #18381
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trickd122 View Post
This has plagued my mind for quite some time now. Anti-roll bars. It is obvious that we can manipulate how responsive a roll bar acts i.e when the bar lifts the opposite arm. Does anyone use this as a tuning aid, and what I am refering to is not changing the bar but change at what point the bar acts.

Eample when I lift the right arm 15mm the left arm starts to lift.
How are you guys setting this Kory, Hiro anyone

Question 2
I am all set to go with the FF/FR mod. Am I really expecting to see a big change here? and if so couldnt we have arrived at the same feel with another method i.e rollcenter springs I don't know....

This is what happens when I get a chance to think lol
Answer #1:
If you look on cyclone TC setup sheets, they have a little spot for the gap on the swaybar links. When you increase this gap, the swaybar becomes more progressive. It takes more suspension travel for the swaybar to really start working because it angles the swaybar up. The smaller this gap is, it makes the swaybar sit flatter. This makes is more linear, and makes it start working earlier in the suspension travel. Generally (read as very generally) feels like running a little stiffer swaybar. Usually when I run a smaller gap, the car feels more responsive and locked in around center.

Answer #2:
The change that made the car feel closer to the suspension block mod, without doing any modification is moving the shock further out on the suspension arm (position #1). The suspension block mod does a lot of small different things that make and overall result of a smoother, more drivable car.

-Korey
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Old 01-25-2010, 06:57 PM   #18382
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpidarX View Post
Finally had my first race with my new Cyclone TC. It was awesome! I was only .1 sec off TQ, which is good for me. I used one of Koreys setups, and it was really pretty hooked up. However, the car did have a slight understeer. So I have a general setup question. With a car that is understeering, what end of the car do you generally start with when trying to make changes? Do you try to make changes to the front end to get more grip, or do you make changes to the rear end to reduce the grip at that end?
Be a little more specific and I think I can help you.

First of all, which setup are we referring too?

Second, to figure out what end of the car to work on kind of depends on what the car is doing. If you are looking for more initial steering into the corner, I usually work on the front of the car. If you want more mid-exit steering, I work on the rear of the car.

But like I said, let us know what setup you're running, general track conditions, and I'm sure we can help you out.

-Korey
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Old 01-25-2010, 07:18 PM   #18383
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Hi Korey,

Im going to TITC soon and seek some opinion from you as preparation:

1) do you think the FF/FR mod would work well in high speed track with wide chicanes? Perhaps you can specifically see the pictures of the track at www.titc.in.th, the TITC website or from youtube by searching for RC Addict. Somehow i feel that in high speed track, a lil more roll perhaps is easier to drive for better mid cornering. Your view?

2) hav you ever tried driving a TC but using a bathup chassis? Your view as to its effect in the setup overall?

Thanks
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Old 01-25-2010, 07:30 PM   #18384
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I think the suspension block mod would still be good, but maybe don't run as wide. I usually always start with 1.0 deg blocks if I even try going wider than stock. I personally don't have much experience on very large tracks, so my input my not be the best when it comes to setup for the TITC. I know some of my colleagues from Orca USA will be there, and they said the track is HUGE!!!!

-Korey
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Old 01-25-2010, 08:14 PM   #18385
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
I think the suspension block mod would still be good, but maybe don't run as wide. I usually always start with 1.0 deg blocks if I even try going wider than stock. I personally don't have much experience on very large tracks, so my input my not be the best when it comes to setup for the TITC. I know some of my colleagues from Orca USA will be there, and they said the track is HUGE!!!!

-Korey
so the general combination is 1 FR/FF or 2 fr/ff. correct?
Ok I will start off with. Pontiac had it right all along "wide is better"

ooo where is a good source fo those purple screws?
locally with the US prefered
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Old 01-25-2010, 08:31 PM   #18386
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Originally Posted by trickd122 View Post
so the general combination is 1 FR/FF or 2 fr/ff. correct?
Ok I will start off with. Pontiac had it right all along "wide is better"

ooo where is a good source fo those purple screws?
locally with the US prefered
As grip gets higher, I go wider. I use 1.5 as well, it just depends on the track conditions. It's something you'll have to try for yourself, and find out what works best for you

-Korey
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Old 01-26-2010, 10:27 AM   #18387
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I think 2.0deg FF/FR would be good on most of track conditions.
However, it might need some tweak to make it work though. For example, if the 2.0deg block combo seems don't work, try softer springs, lowering suspension blocks,etc before you go narrower.

I usually have 1.0mm underneath the front suspension blocks when i run with 2.0 blocks and try different springs, different suspension block height.

Thanks,
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Old 01-26-2010, 10:33 AM   #18388
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RockyMania View Post
Hi Korey,

Im going to TITC soon and seek some opinion from you as preparation:

1) do you think the FF/FR mod would work well in high speed track with wide chicanes? Perhaps you can specifically see the pictures of the track at www.titc.in.th, the TITC website or from youtube by searching for RC Addict. Somehow i feel that in high speed track, a lil more roll perhaps is easier to drive for better mid cornering. Your view?

2) hav you ever tried driving a TC but using a bathup chassis? Your view as to its effect in the setup overall?

Thanks
The FF/FR mod should work there too. I think it's worth to try at least.
On the side note, i just got info from Hara and he says that he runs regular FR block with 2.5deg FF block for maximize the steering. Big surprise was that he sometimes use red springs up front too.

Last edited by Hi-LowBlow; 01-26-2010 at 12:56 PM.
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Old 01-26-2010, 06:49 PM   #18389
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Thanks Korey and Hi-LowBlow

Hi-LowBlow, thanks for the Hara sneak tips! appreciate it alot. 1) do u know whether he is using 1.5mm or 1mmm under suspension blocks? 2) when u say u normally use 1.0mm under your front suspension blocks when using 2.0 FF/FR mod, do you also use 1.0mm under your rear suspension block?

Thanks in advance
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Old 01-27-2010, 06:53 AM   #18390
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Default Carpet set-up

HI,

This is a carpet set-up I used last night, It got me much closer to the A finla than the others I have tried. Still not there but read on, The only thing I would say is I measured the droop from the front of the wish bone, but since the car has anti-dive it would be even lower. I increased the droop for the finla race and the car was really getting there for me- Thanks every one who has pitched in with this:

Front:
Spring: HPI White
Oil: Edit 50 wt
Piston: HB 2 hole
Shock position: 3 on tower, 2 on arm
Camber: 1.0 deg
Camber Link position: long
Shims under camber link: 1mm
Caster: 4 deg
Suspension blocks: 1.5deg FF
Shims under suspension blocks: 1.5mmRear 1mm Front
Droop: 7mm on a droop gauge, measured at the arm right under the outer hinge pin
Ride height: 5mm
Swaybar: 1.4mm,
Front Drive: Ver 3 spool, steel drive cups, MIP's
Wheelbase: 2mm behind arm ( long base)
Wheel Hex:

Rear:
Spring: HPI Silver
Oil: Losi 35 wt
Piston: HB 2 hole
Shock position: 3 on tower and 3 on arm
Camber: 1.5 deg
Camber Link Position: Long on bulkhead, short on hub (standard setup)
Shims under camber link: 3mm
Rear Toe Block: 3 deg
Shims under toe/suspension blocks: 1mm
Droop: 6mm on gauge
Ride Height: 5mm
Swaybar: 1.2mm
Wheelbase: 2mm in front of arm, .7 behind. 2mm in front of hub carrier, .7 behind.
Wheel hex: standard

Other:
Cut top deck
FRP Mid deck cut
Steering bellcrank shim: 4mm
Tires: sweep 32
Body: Protoform Mazda 6

I am ready to dial some more steering inot the car as well as take the anti-dive away so smooth out the steering through out the corner, But I will be running about 7mm front droop to start.

Other things I will be trying areand in this order one at a time)
Full re-bound in all shocks to get responsiveness back
2mm under rear ball stud- just to stop it running out of travel late in the corner.
2mm under front ball stud- to smooth transition
Standing the rear shocks up
Softer front springs


any other ideas to try appricated - and hope its of inspiration to others,

Mi
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