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Old 01-24-2010, 05:06 AM   #18361
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
Shouldn't be. Thats a pretty good starting point for just about anywhere.

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Any other tips on what i can change from barry bakers 13.5 setup to make the car really easy to drive? I want a easy to drive car so i can learn to be consistant then i will worry about speed after

Thanks again
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Old 01-24-2010, 01:26 PM   #18362
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Korey, I'm puttting an Exotek chassis on my car and in the process I thought I'd go through everything and replace worn parts as necessary. I got to the rear axles and noticed that the blades were worn as if they were bottoming out on the diff halves. I can't figure out how to fix the problem other then going to shorter axles. The current axles are 44mm pin to pin. Does anybody make a 42mm axle ? Do you have this problem ? I run 3 deg. of camber which doesn't help the problem. I also run 3 deg. of toe, but that seems to be standard.
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Old 01-24-2010, 01:47 PM   #18363
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Korey- I'm racing again The rear is too planted so I'm taking a little toe out of the car. We are running 17.5 so 3degrees might be a little too much.
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Old 01-24-2010, 04:26 PM   #18364
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Korey, I'm puttting an Exotek chassis on my car and in the process I thought I'd go through everything and replace worn parts as necessary. I got to the rear axles and noticed that the blades were worn as if they were bottoming out on the diff halves. I can't figure out how to fix the problem other then going to shorter axles. The current axles are 44mm pin to pin. Does anybody make a 42mm axle ? Do you have this problem ? I run 3 deg. of camber which doesn't help the problem. I also run 3 deg. of toe, but that seems to be standard.
Thanks.
I had this problem when I ran very small amounts of rear toe in. I just shaved some material off the blade itself, then it didn't bottom out anymore. They're pretty thick and very strong, so it can take it.

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Old 01-24-2010, 04:27 PM   #18365
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Originally Posted by madwestmo View Post
Any other tips on what i can change from barry bakers 13.5 setup to make the car really easy to drive? I want a easy to drive car so i can learn to be consistant then i will worry about speed after

Thanks again
Thicker shock oil will help smooth the car out too. I usually start with losi 45wt.

-Korey
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Old 01-24-2010, 04:29 PM   #18366
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Originally Posted by STLNLST View Post
Korey- I'm racing again The rear is too planted so I'm taking a little toe out of the car. We are running 17.5 so 3degrees might be a little too much.
Odd. I can usually get 3 deg to work just by making other setup changes. I noticed the car rotates better at low speed that way. Since you're running at norcal and speedworld... have you ever tried taking the rear swaybar off? Sometimes if you just let the rear end of the car roll a ton it frees it up.

Also, try laying down your shocks, but also run 3mm of camber link shims. That seems to be a good change I did to get more steering overall in oddly high grip situations.

-Korey
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Old 01-24-2010, 04:30 PM   #18367
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Originally Posted by tc3 racer sc View Post
hey korey what a good rubber set up for the birds on rubber 17.5 trinity duo/duo2 gearing and a good fdr thxs for ur help
Andy Moore's 2008 IIC rubber setup is always a solid starter on this car for just about any track. You can also try the setup I posted a few pages back

-Korey
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Old 01-25-2010, 04:21 AM   #18368
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Any other tips on what i can change from barry bakers 13.5 setup to make the car really easy to drive? I want a easy to drive car so i can learn to be consistant then i will worry about speed after

Thanks again
If you have a transmitttier with EPA (end point adjustment) the might just want to take some lock off, then gradually dial it back in as you get used to it. on my Cyclone full lock is %82 but I never go above %76, I run %7o-74 most of the time.

Another thing would be to play with springs and ft shock positions-
On the carpet at Stoke pinks gave tomuch mid-corner for me and going softer and harder both cured it in different says
silver ( softer) took steering away but it took to long for the ft tyres to get to temperature.
Gold (harder) did not cure the problem of 'hooking' as well as the silvers but it did get the tyres warm quicker.
Tuesday night- try whites ( similar to koreys set-up)

Standing the shocks up also reduced the 'hook' may be start with them stood up then take them in each run until it where you want them.

Like Ive said I new to rubber/carpet so I find out my self

cheers,

m
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Old 01-25-2010, 04:45 AM   #18369
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If you have a transmitttier with EPA (end point adjustment) the might just want to take some lock off, then gradually dial it back in as you get used to it. on my Cyclone full lock is %82 but I never go above %76, I run %7o-74 most of the time.

Another thing would be to play with springs and ft shock positions-
On the carpet at Stoke pinks gave tomuch mid-corner for me and going softer and harder both cured it in different says
silver ( softer) took steering away but it took to long for the ft tyres to get to temperature.
Gold (harder) did not cure the problem of 'hooking' as well as the silvers but it did get the tyres warm quicker.
Tuesday night- try whites ( similar to koreys set-up)

Standing the shocks up also reduced the 'hook' may be start with them stood up then take them in each run until it where you want them.

Like Ive said I new to rubber/carpet so I find out my self

cheers,

m
yeah this is one of the changes i made to his setup , i believe i stood the shocks up and they now in 3rd from the top , made the back a little better , some guy told me at the club who ran a tamiya to take the washers out from under the pivot/suspension blocks , i had 1mm under all of them before , he said it would give me alot more grip
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Old 01-25-2010, 07:54 AM   #18370
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yeah this is one of the changes i made to his setup , i believe i stood the shocks up and they now in 3rd from the top , made the back a little better , some guy told me at the club who ran a tamiya to take the washers out from under the pivot/suspension blocks , i had 1mm under all of them before , he said it would give me alot more grip
Removing the spacers will make the car roll more, I think it depends on where your problem lies, if its initial then doing this may work, however if it mid-corner it may be that it just generates more roll and your car runs out of travel the spins.

This is the case with mine, the weight transfers to the front and loads the out-side wheel, this then lifts the back inside and the car spins, So I am making adjustments at both ends- limting roll at the front: Harder springs, Oil, less shims onbulk-head, and may be more not less under the sus blocks, also anti-dive in the front.

At the rear I seem to prefer silver springs, and I ve also redcued droop so that the back can not come up transfer weight to the front, don'nt go to far though, equal front and back is plenty for me and there not many set ups with less droop in the back,

Another way to just slow everything down is make the car wider, the stock cylone is only about 185mm wide and you can go to 190mm, so even with 1mm spacer on eachside its only 187mm.

laters...
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Old 01-25-2010, 08:07 AM   #18371
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Has anyone else had issues with the CVD pins constantly backing out of the axle joints? Even with locktite, it back out now about 3 to 5 laps and damages the steering block. Mine issue has been the left front and I ended up changing it to the Cyclone S outdrive/dogbone configuration. Running good now since the switch.
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Old 01-25-2010, 09:39 AM   #18372
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Has anyone else had issues with the CVD pins constantly backing out of the axle joints? Even with locktite, it back out now about 3 to 5 laps and damages the steering block. Mine issue has been the left front and I ended up changing it to the Cyclone S outdrive/dogbone configuration. Running good now since the switch.
ooh yes, a few times...but not for a while!!

Get some new grub screw as the end distorts and helps them grip, make sure you have a good fitting allen key so you tighen them up properly , re-build and then wrap in shrink wrap, that way even if they come loose they do not go any where, if I rememeber right its 13mm.
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Old 01-25-2010, 09:49 AM   #18373
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Originally Posted by michael.branth View Post
ooh yes, a few times...but not for a while!!

Get some new grub screw as the end distorts and helps them grip, make sure you have a good fitting allen key so you tighen them up properly , re-build and then wrap in shrink wrap, that way even if they come loose they do not go any where, if I rememeber right its 13mm.
Thanks for the info. It has been getting frustrating especially since I put a new joint and pin in and it still kept doing it. Thought about notching the pin a little to give the grub screw a place to bite the pin and hold it firmly in place. When I decided to put it back in the car, I will heed this advise.
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Old 01-25-2010, 10:34 AM   #18374
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Korey, what type of servo saver do you run ? One piece alum., two piece alum., or two piece alum. and plastic ? I'm running the alum., plastic but was wondering if maybe I was loseing some steering through the deflection of the plactic arm ?
Thanks
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Old 01-25-2010, 12:55 PM   #18375
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Korey, what type of servo saver do you run ? One piece alum., two piece alum., or two piece alum. and plastic ? I'm running the alum., plastic but was wondering if maybe I was loseing some steering through the deflection of the plactic arm ?
Thanks
I ran the one piece aluminum for a while, then I realized every time I ran it my steering would get out of whack every time I hit a wall. Granted... I never ran a servo saver on the servo when I ran the one piece aluminum one. Right now I'm just running the stock setup. It's the plastics top piece, and the aluminum bottom piece.

-Korey
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