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Hot Bodies Cyclone

Old 01-23-2010, 11:08 AM
  #18346  
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Originally Posted by mark79
I've got an Exotek HBX chassis fitted and i've tried using the Hudy chassis balancing tools. I'm not convinced they let the chassis pivot freely though as the holes are not far off the diameter of the spikes.

Is there another way of accurately checking the balance fore/aft and side to side without needing 2 scales??

Thanks
put a string or fishing line on the front and rear shock tower ( on the outer holes of each tower) then pick up the front and rear of the car with 2 small round screwdrivers
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Old 01-23-2010, 11:28 AM
  #18347  
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Originally Posted by madwestmo
thanks for the help i will try this

btw ive been running 45w oil all round with 1.1mm 3 hole pistons , would this be ok for carpet ? or part of my problems ?
Shouldn't be. Thats a pretty good starting point for just about anywhere.

-Korey
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Old 01-23-2010, 11:30 AM
  #18348  
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...

Originally Posted by Korey Harbke
I can have pics up for everyone to see tomorrow evening. I think it will help a lot of people understand how it's done.

-Korey
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Old 01-23-2010, 12:08 PM
  #18349  
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Originally Posted by TFR
...
Sorry . been studying for some exams coming up. Here is a pic of the chassis. I drew some crude lines in MS paint to show you guys what I was talking about before.
Attached Thumbnails Hot Bodies Cyclone-chassis.jpg   Hot Bodies Cyclone-dsc00212.jpg  
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Old 01-23-2010, 12:09 PM
  #18350  
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Couple more of the suspension block
Attached Thumbnails Hot Bodies Cyclone-dsc00213.jpg   Hot Bodies Cyclone-dsc00214.jpg  
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Old 01-23-2010, 12:22 PM
  #18351  
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Hi Korey, thanks for the detailed instructions on drilling the holes.
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Old 01-23-2010, 06:40 PM
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Thank you very much for posting the pics. Very helpfull.

-I now have another question MOTORS
I haven't ran electric in a while and I guess the main reason for me going back to GAS is that EVERY couple months I'd have to get a new ESC to keep up. On the subject of motors how do I maintain and optimize this motor
13.5 trinity duo. I remember at one point with brushed motor relied heavily on shims is this still the case?
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Old 01-23-2010, 07:58 PM
  #18353  
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Default what a good set up 17.5 rubber to start for the birds

hey korey what a good rubber set up for the birds on rubber 17.5 trinity duo/duo2 gearing and a good fdr thxs for ur help
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Old 01-24-2010, 04:06 AM
  #18354  
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke
Shouldn't be. Thats a pretty good starting point for just about anywhere.

-Korey
Any other tips on what i can change from barry bakers 13.5 setup to make the car really easy to drive? I want a easy to drive car so i can learn to be consistant then i will worry about speed after

Thanks again
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Old 01-24-2010, 12:26 PM
  #18355  
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Korey, I'm puttting an Exotek chassis on my car and in the process I thought I'd go through everything and replace worn parts as necessary. I got to the rear axles and noticed that the blades were worn as if they were bottoming out on the diff halves. I can't figure out how to fix the problem other then going to shorter axles. The current axles are 44mm pin to pin. Does anybody make a 42mm axle ? Do you have this problem ? I run 3 deg. of camber which doesn't help the problem. I also run 3 deg. of toe, but that seems to be standard.
Thanks.
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Old 01-24-2010, 12:47 PM
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Korey- I'm racing again The rear is too planted so I'm taking a little toe out of the car. We are running 17.5 so 3degrees might be a little too much.
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Old 01-24-2010, 03:26 PM
  #18357  
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Originally Posted by jag88
Korey, I'm puttting an Exotek chassis on my car and in the process I thought I'd go through everything and replace worn parts as necessary. I got to the rear axles and noticed that the blades were worn as if they were bottoming out on the diff halves. I can't figure out how to fix the problem other then going to shorter axles. The current axles are 44mm pin to pin. Does anybody make a 42mm axle ? Do you have this problem ? I run 3 deg. of camber which doesn't help the problem. I also run 3 deg. of toe, but that seems to be standard.
Thanks.
I had this problem when I ran very small amounts of rear toe in. I just shaved some material off the blade itself, then it didn't bottom out anymore. They're pretty thick and very strong, so it can take it.

-Korey
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Old 01-24-2010, 03:27 PM
  #18358  
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Originally Posted by madwestmo
Any other tips on what i can change from barry bakers 13.5 setup to make the car really easy to drive? I want a easy to drive car so i can learn to be consistant then i will worry about speed after

Thanks again
Thicker shock oil will help smooth the car out too. I usually start with losi 45wt.

-Korey
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Old 01-24-2010, 03:29 PM
  #18359  
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Originally Posted by STLNLST
Korey- I'm racing again The rear is too planted so I'm taking a little toe out of the car. We are running 17.5 so 3degrees might be a little too much.
Odd. I can usually get 3 deg to work just by making other setup changes. I noticed the car rotates better at low speed that way. Since you're running at norcal and speedworld... have you ever tried taking the rear swaybar off? Sometimes if you just let the rear end of the car roll a ton it frees it up.

Also, try laying down your shocks, but also run 3mm of camber link shims. That seems to be a good change I did to get more steering overall in oddly high grip situations.

-Korey
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Old 01-24-2010, 03:30 PM
  #18360  
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Originally Posted by tc3 racer sc
hey korey what a good rubber set up for the birds on rubber 17.5 trinity duo/duo2 gearing and a good fdr thxs for ur help
Andy Moore's 2008 IIC rubber setup is always a solid starter on this car for just about any track. You can also try the setup I posted a few pages back

-Korey
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