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Old 01-23-2010, 10:04 AM   #18346
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That new Subaru boby is anyone here running it...on the specs it stated that the design embraces the use of a spool...is there really a difference between that and say a Maza 6 speed?

Korey-
You also mentioned that you liked using battery weight plates as opposed to putting the weights on top or to outside, is it possible to balance the car putting the weights toward the inner side of the battery and lastly I dont have access to a scale so approx hw much weight do I need to add and where PICS would be best

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If the min weight rules are 1500g, I like using the weight plate. I just added about an ounce on the outside rear of the battery pack to counteract the motor hanging off the chassis a bit.

Now that our min weight rules in the US are 1420 (or 1425??? can't remember), I have had to use a different method. Hiro and I offset our battery pack and run little to no extra weight added to the car itself. We just move the battery to the outside more, then tape in place. I might be making myself like a tray/brace to see if I can get something to protect and hold the battery in the car a little more securely.

Mike at Exotek has done a really nice job making a cool lipo specific chassis for the cyclone that I hope to try sometime soon. This allows you to move the battery further out, and it also acts as a retainer with those cool stainless steel wrap around weight/retainers.

Oh almost forgot. The Subaru Type be has a little less downforce overall when compared to the mazdaspeed 6. It's a tick smoother, and keeps tire temperatures cooler when running on hot asphalt tracks. I like it for running on super high bite carpet, because it doesn't make the car so twitchy.

-Korey
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Old 01-23-2010, 10:09 AM   #18347
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i tried the barry baker setup last night and found the rear to be very loose , so i stood the shocks up a bit more (like u mention) and this did help a little , also put .75 washers under the pivot blocks at the back and 1.5 at the front (both of these on the rear) to create some anti-dive and this also helped too but still felt kinda loose at the rear

thanks for the help so far

maybe the problem is too much grip at the front ???
Try putting the swaybar back on too if you aren't. I also would suggest changing the shims under the camber links to 3mm front and 2mm rear. It will make the car feel a little more neutral overall.

-Korey
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Old 01-23-2010, 10:12 AM   #18348
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Check out this set up book by Xray. Most of it should help you out with your Cyclone. Good reference for those new to on road TC as there is sooo much to learn.
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...487d970568721e
Ive had a quick look through but there is alot to take in lol , from what i read i think maybe my rear diff isnt set correctly , some guy told me once to tighten it and now it is really tight , so tight i can barely turn it but it is still free moving and smooth , could this be my problem with the back end stepping out on corner exit ?
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Old 01-23-2010, 10:15 AM   #18349
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
Try putting the swaybar back on too if you aren't. I also would suggest changing the shims under the camber links to 3mm front and 2mm rear. It will make the car feel a little more neutral overall.

-Korey
yeah i ran 1.2 swaybar in back (never tried without any) and i use to run 3mm on front camber link with some other setup which i got from this thread where i used pink springs all round
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Old 01-23-2010, 10:36 AM   #18350
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yeah i ran 1.2 swaybar in back (never tried without any) and i use to run 3mm on front camber link with some other setup which i got from this thread where i used pink springs all round
Sounds like Andy's 2009 IIC setup. It's usually a decent starting point. I typically rarely use the same spring all around on this car though. It usually doesn't feel quite right too me. You can also try running silver springs in the rear, or moving the bottom of the front shock out to hole #1 if you are using the Cyclone TC suspension arms. That'll help calm the car down.

-Korey
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Old 01-23-2010, 10:45 AM   #18351
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
Sounds like Andy's 2009 IIC setup. It's usually a decent starting point. I typically rarely use the same spring all around on this car though. It usually doesn't feel quite right too me. You can also try running silver springs in the rear, or moving the bottom of the front shock out to hole #1 if you are using the Cyclone TC suspension arms. That'll help calm the car down.

-Korey
thanks for the help i will try this

btw ive been running 45w oil all round with 1.1mm 3 hole pistons , would this be ok for carpet ? or part of my problems ?
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Old 01-23-2010, 10:58 AM   #18352
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I've got an Exotek HBX chassis fitted and i've tried using the Hudy chassis balancing tools. I'm not convinced they let the chassis pivot freely though as the holes are not far off the diameter of the spikes.

Is there another way of accurately checking the balance fore/aft and side to side without needing 2 scales??

Thanks
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Old 01-23-2010, 11:08 AM   #18353
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I've got an Exotek HBX chassis fitted and i've tried using the Hudy chassis balancing tools. I'm not convinced they let the chassis pivot freely though as the holes are not far off the diameter of the spikes.

Is there another way of accurately checking the balance fore/aft and side to side without needing 2 scales??

Thanks
put a string or fishing line on the front and rear shock tower ( on the outer holes of each tower) then pick up the front and rear of the car with 2 small round screwdrivers
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Old 01-23-2010, 11:28 AM   #18354
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thanks for the help i will try this

btw ive been running 45w oil all round with 1.1mm 3 hole pistons , would this be ok for carpet ? or part of my problems ?
Shouldn't be. Thats a pretty good starting point for just about anywhere.

-Korey
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Old 01-23-2010, 11:30 AM   #18355
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...

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I can have pics up for everyone to see tomorrow evening. I think it will help a lot of people understand how it's done.

-Korey
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Old 01-23-2010, 12:08 PM   #18356
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Sorry . been studying for some exams coming up. Here is a pic of the chassis. I drew some crude lines in MS paint to show you guys what I was talking about before.
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Hot Bodies Cyclone-chassis.jpg   Hot Bodies Cyclone-dsc00212.jpg  
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Old 01-23-2010, 12:09 PM   #18357
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Couple more of the suspension block
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Hot Bodies Cyclone-dsc00213.jpg   Hot Bodies Cyclone-dsc00214.jpg  
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Old 01-23-2010, 12:22 PM   #18358
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Hi Korey, thanks for the detailed instructions on drilling the holes.
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Old 01-23-2010, 06:40 PM   #18359
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Default -Korey

Thank you very much for posting the pics. Very helpfull.

-I now have another question MOTORS
I haven't ran electric in a while and I guess the main reason for me going back to GAS is that EVERY couple months I'd have to get a new ESC to keep up. On the subject of motors how do I maintain and optimize this motor
13.5 trinity duo. I remember at one point with brushed motor relied heavily on shims is this still the case?
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Old 01-23-2010, 07:58 PM   #18360
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Default what a good set up 17.5 rubber to start for the birds

hey korey what a good rubber set up for the birds on rubber 17.5 trinity duo/duo2 gearing and a good fdr thxs for ur help
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