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Old 01-22-2010, 03:39 PM   #18331
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I had a quick question for the setup experts. I'm needing to run 30mm foam tires on the rear. I'm using a 2mm spacer in the wheel, but i'm still having clearance issues with the lower rear shock mount. Right now, my lower rear shock mount is in the middle hole. I think I will have enough clearance if I move the lower rear shock mount to the inner hole. However, what effect will this have on handling, and is there anything I can do to counter the effect of moving the mounting position inward...for example, stiff spring etc? Thanks for the help.
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Old 01-22-2010, 04:09 PM   #18332
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It won't be exactly the same, but going to a stiffer spring or standing up the shocks more from the shock tower might help keep it somewhat similar in feel.

-Korey
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Old 01-22-2010, 07:33 PM   #18333
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Originally Posted by Hi-LowBlow View Post

Also, i recommend you to lower the front suspension blocks by 0.5mm when you try 2.0deg or 2.5deg with the mod.
Hi Hiro, why do you recommend lowering the roll center with this mod?

Also, what is the easiest way to drill the 2 additional holes accurately?
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Old 01-22-2010, 07:35 PM   #18334
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
Thanks Hiro! I've actually not tried 2.5 deg blocks yet. It's something on my to do list . I've been running 2.0 deg blocks on higher traction surfaces. It makes the car feel a little less tippy and edgy in the front end. I usually combine this with a thin wheel hex to make sure the front end isn't too wide though.

I have been thinking about trying some arm sweep with the wider blocks, but I've been liking the way the car feels as is with no sweep, I've just left it alone. It's always worth a shot though.

-Korey
Hi Korey, I was wondering if you moved your lower shock position in to the #3 hole on the arm to make up for the arm moving outward ?
Thanks.
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Old 01-22-2010, 09:47 PM   #18335
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Originally Posted by billythekid View Post
Hi Hiro, why do you recommend lowering the roll center with this mod?

Also, what is the easiest way to drill the 2 additional holes accurately?
Generally, whenever you widen out from the hinge pins the car won't roll as much. When running blocks much wider than stock like 2.0 or 2.5 deg, it tends to make the car push a little more mid-exit. By lowering the roll center (going to 1.0mm under the blocks) it helps remedy that.

At Reedy I ran a 3.0 deg FF block, and a 1.0 deg rear block. Overall, the car had killer turn in, but I just wanted to get a little more mid-exit steering, so I dropped to 1.0mm shims under the FF and FR block. Overall that seemed to work really well.

There is no super easy way to make sure they are located correctly unless you have really $$$ equipment. Although, it can be done at home with the right tools. A lot of it comes down to how well you can measure, and be accurate. Here's how I did mine:

1. What I did was draw a line right down the centerline of the chassis. This will be used as a reference line.

2. Then I drew a line from the center of the FF suspension block holes, down the length of the chassis, parallel to the center line. Do this from the other hole as well. Thats probably one of the most important things to get right.

3. Next step is pretty easy. Now you just need to draw a line from center to center across the existing FR suspension block holes. The intersection of the lines (except that center line) is where the holes need to be drilled.

4. To drill the holes, I used a drill press. I clamped the chassis down to the table of the drill press, with a piece of wood under the chassis. This helps back the chassis and prevent the fibers from blowing out and looking nasty as the drill bit punches through. Drill your hole with a 3mm drill bit.

5. Now without unclamping the chassis from the drill surface, remove the 3mm drill bit and load up the countersink bit. By not removing the chassis, or moving the drill location, it will ensure the countersink is centered on the hole you just drilled. Make sure it's a 90 deg countersink bit. THIS IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT!!!!!! Most Hardware stores have 82 deg countersinks, and this is for SAE hardware. Metric hardware uses a 90 deg countersink angle. Just use the countersink bit and go a little bit at a time, testing the fit of a countersunk screw. You have to make sure not to go too deep.

6. Repeat step 4 and 5 for the other hole

Hope that helps some...

-Korey
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Old 01-22-2010, 09:48 PM   #18336
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Originally Posted by jag88 View Post
Hi Korey, I was wondering if you moved your lower shock position in to the #3 hole on the arm to make up for the arm moving outward ?
Thanks.
Thats something Hiro told me to try. I did, but my local track has so much grip It caused a traction roll for me. I left the shock in the #2 hole and it worked out great for me.

-Korey
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Old 01-22-2010, 11:42 PM   #18337
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Default Question on the cyclone

Does anyone know how to do an overdrive for the cyclone?
Thanks.
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Old 01-23-2010, 02:08 AM   #18338
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hi ,

Ive been racing for around a year now and have slowly built up my equipment , i have 2 x cyclone tc's , during the winter here in england i only race indoor on carpet , but i am having lots of problems getting my car setup right.... Ive tried the standard setup in the manual and also a few off the HB website but none with any luck...
The tracks i race on are kinda small compared to the ones ive seen in america and so on , the carpet we race on is proper race carpet but cant remember the name of it (its light grey :P)

Here is what i run :

13.5t SP 3.0 motor
5000 40c Intellect lipo
Futaba 9551 servo
SP LPF v2 ESC

Normally everyone seems to use Sorex 24r tyres and tyre warmers but no additive

Its getting quite fustrating as i am relativily new to rc racing so i dont know if its me or the car lol , the car has never really seemed to do exactly what i want it too and doesnt feel stable enough to push it to the edge

Can anyone give me some help on what i can do , maybe a starting off point for the car so i know its not the car and just my bad driving lol , everyone at my club runs xray, schumachers etc so cant ask anyone locally

Thanks for any help in advance
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Old 01-23-2010, 02:36 AM   #18339
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madwestmo View Post
hi ,

Ive been racing for around a year now and have slowly built up my equipment , i have 2 x cyclone tc's , during the winter here in england i only race indoor on carpet , but i am having lots of problems getting my car setup right.... Ive tried the standard setup in the manual and also a few off the HB website but none with any luck...
The tracks i race on are kinda small compared to the ones ive seen in america and so on , the carpet we race on is proper race carpet but cant remember the name of it (its light grey :P)

Here is what i run :

13.5t SP 3.0 motor
5000 40c Intellect lipo
Futaba 9551 servo
SP LPF v2 ESC

Normally everyone seems to use Sorex 24r tyres and tyre warmers but no additive

Its getting quite fustrating as i am relativily new to rc racing so i dont know if its me or the car lol , the car has never really seemed to do exactly what i want it too and doesnt feel stable enough to push it to the edge

Can anyone give me some help on what i can do , maybe a starting off point for the car so i know its not the car and just my bad driving lol , everyone at my club runs xray, schumachers etc so cant ask anyone locally

Thanks for any help in advance
Hi, I ve had some problems adapting to rubber/carpet racing after having raced on polished wood ( common in the UK due to space, driving style is more rally than drift- you need to go forwards to be fast!!!!)for over a year and moving to a new club. The problem I ve found is that I push the car a lot mid-corner as I tend to throw it in , but in carpet this seems to make the car 'snap' and spin out. I am guessing your car is doing something like this rather than understeering?

I found that the solution ( whilst I practice and chnage my driving style- the ultimate soultion) was to use a set-up for high traction carpet- Korey posted one a few pages back and the barry baker 13.5 KO GP set-up is also for high traction. All I am doing now is slowly dialing more steering back in to suit my style: softer ft spring, rear shocks stood up one hole etc. something that I know does work is reducing the ankerman spacer, try 2mm get used to drving then start to build up, both set-ups mentioned above suggest 4mm but I prefer 3mm.

If that doe'nt help I hope it was interesting!!!!!!

CAN some one put links to set-up's? I am not allowed to post URL's yet

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Old 01-23-2010, 02:54 AM   #18340
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Hi, just messing with features and seeing if I could up-load:

CYclone tc
Exotek chassis
SP 13.5
SP esc
Hi-tec recviever
Futaba Servo

its now a hybrid using the best bits off at WCE I bought:
MIP's all round
alloy rear hubs
Tianium turn buckles
Purple alli screws
ALi diff mounts
Ali shock mounts
C/F bumper mount
ver 3 spool

Not sure if the above parts are standard but they were on the one I got second hand.

If this iamge up-loads I think I amy have found an easier way to make the holes for the suspension block mod- will post soon.
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Old 01-23-2010, 03:11 AM   #18341
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i tried the barry baker setup last night and found the rear to be very loose , so i stood the shocks up a bit more (like u mention) and this did help a little , also put .75 washers under the pivot blocks at the back and 1.5 at the front (both of these on the rear) to create some anti-dive and this also helped too but still felt kinda loose at the rear

thanks for the help so far

maybe the problem is too much grip at the front ???
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Old 01-23-2010, 06:18 AM   #18342
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That new Subaru boby is anyone here running it...on the specs it stated that the design embraces the use of a spool...is there really a difference between that and say a Maza 6 speed?

Korey-
You also mentioned that you liked using battery weight plates as opposed to putting the weights on top or to outside, is it possible to balance the car putting the weights toward the inner side of the battery and lastly I dont have access to a scale so approx hw much weight do I need to add and where PICS would be best

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Servo Futaba 9451
ESC LRP SPX
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Old 01-23-2010, 07:06 AM   #18343
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Originally Posted by madwestmo View Post
i tried the barry baker setup last night and found the rear to be very loose , so i stood the shocks up a bit more (like u mention) and this did help a little , also put .75 washers under the pivot blocks at the back and 1.5 at the front (both of these on the rear) to create some anti-dive and this also helped too but still felt kinda loose at the rear

thanks for the help so far

maybe the problem is too much grip at the front ???
If thats the case there is one thing that I have not tried yet which is super glueing the outside edge of your frnt tyre, there was a thread some where else where some one tried this, I suspect it will make the side wall harder making the tyre push a little bit more, could be a compromise to going to harder springs, if I have time this tuesday I am going to do a before and after on an oldish set of tyre to see just what difference it makes.

mi
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Old 01-23-2010, 09:12 AM   #18344
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Hey all....just signed with the HB Infantry. Got my kit on the way. Got a few questions for other Team members...

If there is anyone out there running their Cyclone on a High Traction, High Bite Outdoor Asphalt Track? 13.5 SS & Open Mod. Sprayed traction compound on surface.
I am gonna need a few pointers for set-ups. I'm coming from the AE TC5R and I have never ran this kit before and I am looking for a good set-up to start with. Maybe some hints and pointers to help out as well. Does anyone have a set-up sheet I could look at?

I'm looking forward to meeting you and being a part of the HB Team. Please feel free to PM me as well.

Thanks...
Benjamin Bailey
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Old 01-23-2010, 09:18 AM   #18345
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madwestmo View Post
hi ,

Its getting quite fustrating as i am relativily new to rc racing so i dont know if its me or the car lol , the car has never really seemed to do exactly what i want it too and doesnt feel stable enough to push it to the edge

Can anyone give me some help on what i can do , maybe a starting off point for the car so i know its not the car and just my bad driving lol , everyone at my club runs xray, schumachers etc so cant ask anyone locally

Thanks for any help in advance
Check out this set up book by Xray. Most of it should help you out with your Cyclone. Good reference for those new to on road TC as there is sooo much to learn.
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...487d970568721e
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