trickd122

iTrader: (3)

That new Subaru boby is anyone here running it...on the specs it stated that the design embraces the use of a spool...is there really a difference between that and say a Maza 6 speed?

Korey-
You also mentioned that you liked using battery weight plates as opposed to putting the weights on top or to outside, is it possible to balance the car putting the weights toward the inner side of the battery and lastly I dont have access to a scale so approx hw much weight do I need to add and where PICS would be best

Equip
Battery TP 5000 40C
Servo Futaba 9451
ESC LRP SPX
Motor 13.5 DUO

mlight13

iTrader: (40)

Can someone recommend me a starting gear ratio for my Cyclone S? I just built it and I will be running an 27T brushed motor (Trinity CO27 or Reedy Stockstar) at first before I drop money on a brushless system. I have heard some people running as low as 3.5FDR and others running as high as 5.5FDR. I will be running on a medium size asphalt track. I am also switching to 48pitch gearing so some gear sizes will be helpful. My local crowd pretty much all runs brushless so there is not much local help with it. Thanks in advance...

charlie_b

iTrader: (1)

3.5 and 5.5 is for brushless 17.5. With your C027, i would start at 7.0 and gear up or down from there.

Hi-LowBlow

iTrader: (1)

you got to have a pair of DCJ on your car Minh!

michael.branth

HI KOrey, would it be worth doing this mod with 2.5degree blocks? what eefct would this have? It just I got 2 but no 2degree blocks.

ALso I could go 1.5degree fr and 2.5 degree ff, so it would be wider but still have 1degree toe out??? ( I am tempted to try this one,

cheers as always,

MI

Hi-LowBlow

iTrader: (1)

I'm not Korey but i will answer to this.
I think it's worth to try but you will probably need longer drive shafts like 46mm other wise either breaking drive cup/coming out drive shaft will happen easier due to not enough drive shaft plunge.

Also, i recommend you to lower the front suspension blocks by 0.5mm when you try 2.0deg or 2.5deg with the mod.

mlight13

iTrader: (40)

Thanks Charlie, I will give it a shot!

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

Thanks Hiro! I've actually not tried 2.5 deg blocks yet. It's something on my to do list . I've been running 2.0 deg blocks on higher traction surfaces. It makes the car feel a little less tippy and edgy in the front end. I usually combine this with a thin wheel hex to make sure the front end isn't too wide though.

I have been thinking about trying some arm sweep with the wider blocks, but I've been liking the way the car feels as is with no sweep, I've just left it alone. It's always worth a shot though.

-Korey

SpidarX

iTrader: (3)

I had a quick question for the setup experts. I'm needing to run 30mm foam tires on the rear. I'm using a 2mm spacer in the wheel, but i'm still having clearance issues with the lower rear shock mount. Right now, my lower rear shock mount is in the middle hole. I think I will have enough clearance if I move the lower rear shock mount to the inner hole. However, what effect will this have on handling, and is there anything I can do to counter the effect of moving the mounting position inward...for example, stiff spring etc? Thanks for the help.

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

It won't be exactly the same, but going to a stiffer spring or standing up the shocks more from the shock tower might help keep it somewhat similar in feel.

-Korey

billythekid

iTrader: (9)

Hi Hiro, why do you recommend lowering the roll center with this mod?

Also, what is the easiest way to drill the 2 additional holes accurately?

jag88

iTrader: (1)

Hi Korey, I was wondering if you moved your lower shock position in to the #3 hole on the arm to make up for the arm moving outward ?
Thanks.

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

Generally, whenever you widen out from the hinge pins the car won't roll as much. When running blocks much wider than stock like 2.0 or 2.5 deg, it tends to make the car push a little more mid-exit. By lowering the roll center (going to 1.0mm under the blocks) it helps remedy that.

At Reedy I ran a 3.0 deg FF block, and a 1.0 deg rear block. Overall, the car had killer turn in, but I just wanted to get a little more mid-exit steering, so I dropped to 1.0mm shims under the FF and FR block. Overall that seemed to work really well.

There is no super easy way to make sure they are located correctly unless you have really $$$ equipment. Although, it can be done at home with the right tools. A lot of it comes down to how well you can measure, and be accurate. Here's how I did mine:

1. What I did was draw a line right down the centerline of the chassis. This will be used as a reference line.

2. Then I drew a line from the center of the FF suspension block holes, down the length of the chassis, parallel to the center line. Do this from the other hole as well. Thats probably one of the most important things to get right.

3. Next step is pretty easy. Now you just need to draw a line from center to center across the existing FR suspension block holes. The intersection of the lines (except that center line) is where the holes need to be drilled.

4. To drill the holes, I used a drill press. I clamped the chassis down to the table of the drill press, with a piece of wood under the chassis. This helps back the chassis and prevent the fibers from blowing out and looking nasty as the drill bit punches through. Drill your hole with a 3mm drill bit.

5. Now without unclamping the chassis from the drill surface, remove the 3mm drill bit and load up the countersink bit. By not removing the chassis, or moving the drill location, it will ensure the countersink is centered on the hole you just drilled. Make sure it's a 90 deg countersink bit. THIS IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT!!!!!! Most Hardware stores have 82 deg countersinks, and this is for SAE hardware. Metric hardware uses a 90 deg countersink angle. Just use the countersink bit and go a little bit at a time, testing the fit of a countersunk screw. You have to make sure not to go too deep.

6. Repeat step 4 and 5 for the other hole

Hope that helps some...

-Korey

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

Thats something Hiro told me to try. I did, but my local track has so much grip It caused a traction roll for me. I left the shock in the #2 hole and it worked out great for me.

-Korey

AVILLA

iTrader: (2)

Does anyone know how to do an overdrive for the cyclone?
Thanks.