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Old 01-20-2010, 06:01 PM   #18316
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Originally Posted by cherry2blost View Post
I found that the Yokomo BD4 diffs work exceedingly well (and are fairly indestructible). they are a 40 tooth pulley in place of the 39 for the Cyclone, but by using the 17 tooth pulley from the 3Racing kit along with the amended belts for the 39/18 arrangement you get a nice smooth drivetrain with just the right amount of tension but with a easy 2.353:1 ratio.

This is what I use and works a treat (fed up with HB diffs melting)
I'll assume you weren't running the Pro-Spec diff. The Pro-Spec diff is butter and built much beefier than the older diff design.
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Old 01-21-2010, 08:34 PM   #18317
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Hi Ali,

The difference between using the 2.0 deg blocks for FF/FR and the stock block is that the hinge pin width. With using 2.0 deg block for both FF/FR, we can widen the hinge pin width to 44.8mm. (Stock one is 42mm)

The benefit on using wider block is that we will be able to go softer overall but still not much roll. I can also say the front end will have more stability that will eventually generates more crispier turn in.

We have been trying this for long time and getting very good result with it.
To do this, you will have to make another two holes on the chassis to put the block on, and you will have to dremel the block due to the interference with both steering linkage and front drive belt.

You can also choose the width 43mm by using 1.5 deg block.

Let me know if you need further info.
Thank you.
Does anyone have pics of this MOD
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Old 01-21-2010, 09:49 PM   #18318
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I can have pics up for everyone to see tomorrow evening. I think it will help a lot of people understand how it's done.

-Korey
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Old 01-21-2010, 10:52 PM   #18319
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I can have pics up for everyone to see tomorrow evening. I think it will help a lot of people understand how it's done.

-Korey
Thanks Korey
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Old 01-21-2010, 11:04 PM   #18320
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No problem. Luckily I don't work tomorrow and after class I can just goof off for the rest of the day

-Korey
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Old 01-22-2010, 01:53 AM   #18321
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http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s...r/DSC00985.jpg
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Old 01-22-2010, 07:37 AM   #18322
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I get the idea now however what is the measuremets to get it centered proly could use the existing holes for ref. I dont want to mess this up.
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Old 01-22-2010, 07:47 AM   #18323
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Default Subaru body

That new Subaru boby is anyone here running it...on the specs it stated that the design embraces the use of a spool...is there really a difference between that and say a Maza 6 speed?

Korey-
You also mentioned that you liked using battery weight plates as opposed to putting the weights on top or to outside, is it possible to balance the car putting the weights toward the inner side of the battery and lastly I dont have access to a scale so approx hw much weight do I need to add and where PICS would be best

Equip
Battery TP 5000 40C
Servo Futaba 9451
ESC LRP SPX
Motor 13.5 DUO
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Old 01-22-2010, 09:09 AM   #18324
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Can someone recommend me a starting gear ratio for my Cyclone S? I just built it and I will be running an 27T brushed motor (Trinity CO27 or Reedy Stockstar) at first before I drop money on a brushless system. I have heard some people running as low as 3.5FDR and others running as high as 5.5FDR. I will be running on a medium size asphalt track. I am also switching to 48pitch gearing so some gear sizes will be helpful. My local crowd pretty much all runs brushless so there is not much local help with it. Thanks in advance...
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Old 01-22-2010, 09:13 AM   #18325
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Can someone recommend me a starting gear ratio for my Cyclone S? I just built it and I will be running an 27T brushed motor (Trinity CO27 or Reedy Stockstar) at first before I drop money on a brushless system. I have heard some people running as low as 3.5FDR and others running as high as 5.5FDR. I will be running on a medium size asphalt track. I am also switching to 48pitch gearing so some gear sizes will be helpful. My local crowd pretty much all runs brushless so there is not much local help with it. Thanks in advance...
3.5 and 5.5 is for brushless 17.5. With your C027, i would start at 7.0 and gear up or down from there.
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Old 01-22-2010, 09:20 AM   #18326
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you got to have a pair of DCJ on your car Minh!
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Old 01-22-2010, 09:27 AM   #18327
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
I can have pics up for everyone to see tomorrow evening. I think it will help a lot of people understand how it's done.

-Korey
HI KOrey, would it be worth doing this mod with 2.5degree blocks? what eefct would this have? It just I got 2 but no 2degree blocks.

ALso I could go 1.5degree fr and 2.5 degree ff, so it would be wider but still have 1degree toe out??? ( I am tempted to try this one,

cheers as always,

MI
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Old 01-22-2010, 10:46 AM   #18328
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Originally Posted by michael.branth View Post
HI KOrey, would it be worth doing this mod with 2.5degree blocks? what eefct would this have? It just I got 2 but no 2degree blocks.

ALso I could go 1.5degree fr and 2.5 degree ff, so it would be wider but still have 1degree toe out??? ( I am tempted to try this one,

cheers as always,

MI
I'm not Korey but i will answer to this.
I think it's worth to try but you will probably need longer drive shafts like 46mm other wise either breaking drive cup/coming out drive shaft will happen easier due to not enough drive shaft plunge.

Also, i recommend you to lower the front suspension blocks by 0.5mm when you try 2.0deg or 2.5deg with the mod.
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Old 01-22-2010, 11:05 AM   #18329
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3.5 and 5.5 is for brushless 17.5. With your C027, i would start at 7.0 and gear up or down from there.
Thanks Charlie, I will give it a shot!
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Old 01-22-2010, 01:13 PM   #18330
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Originally Posted by Hi-LowBlow View Post
I'm not Korey but i will answer to this.
I think it's worth to try but you will probably need longer drive shafts like 46mm other wise either breaking drive cup/coming out drive shaft will happen easier due to not enough drive shaft plunge.

Also, i recommend you to lower the front suspension blocks by 0.5mm when you try 2.0deg or 2.5deg with the mod.
Thanks Hiro! I've actually not tried 2.5 deg blocks yet. It's something on my to do list . I've been running 2.0 deg blocks on higher traction surfaces. It makes the car feel a little less tippy and edgy in the front end. I usually combine this with a thin wheel hex to make sure the front end isn't too wide though.

I have been thinking about trying some arm sweep with the wider blocks, but I've been liking the way the car feels as is with no sweep, I've just left it alone. It's always worth a shot though.

-Korey
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